=premo=

PM's replied to, still for sale

Does anyone know the part number for the R32 gts-t manual speedo cable? Thank you

Send me a PM if your truly interested, can arrange for you to take a look at it if your keen.

Sub and box now $300 Amp, cap and wiring/terminals $375

Amp, Cap and wiring $400 Sub and Box $330 Common people

Need this gone, PS3 on sale at BigW tomorrow, price drop to $700

Hi, I want a xbox360 Elite or PS3 so I've finally decided to sell off my stereo bits that I almost never get a chance to use. The setup is from my R32 which is only used for drift and occasionally for a sunday drive. The setup is in good condition and and although its a couple of years old I barely had the chance to crank it (spent more time out of the car when I was drifting than being used). The sub box is one I built using 18mm mdf and 20mm perspex, it is sealed and volume tuned to meet the sub's needs. Fully carpeted with strong mounting points to get the best bass through the car. Sub can be mounted in either basket in or out position but for deeper use is better out (as in pictures, takes up more room). Sub is a Alpine type-R 12' DVC 1000w (about 400wrms I think). Sub has never distorted or popped and can handle just about anything your ears can. The Fusion Cap is 1.5 and has voltage display, the plastic that the text is on has a few scratches but if cut off the cap would look very clean. The Amp is a clarion V-Net4150 (4x150wrms) and was the most power full one in its model before d-class, I used it bridged to two channels with two Type-R's but would be better suited to one type-r and use the other two channels for rear speakers. Its never overheated or blown a fuse and all filters/crossover/gains work as if it was new. Ive never had to clean it out as it hasn't been used enough to get dusty. I can supply all wiring including gold terminals that were on my second battery, Amp and Cap are on a frame I made to fit over the spare wheel in R32 (would require welding right angles into boot if you wanted to use it). Would prefer not to separate but may change my mind. Sub and box now $300 Amp, cap and wiring/terminals $375 $600 frim for the lot Let me know what you think

Think I'm just gonna put it in front of the inter cooler on the passenger side with a bit of a gap so hopefully the heat doesn't go straight into the intercooler.

sold, please close

pending payment

One day I'll roll with style... one day

You can get Origin kits which are killa but no pics of them on four door's. http://www.origin-aust.com/stylish_32.html http://www.origin-aust.com/streamline_32.html

1. 1972 240z (best car i've ever owned, pitty i never drove it) 2. R34 gtr 3. S15 JDM style 4. datsun 510 (1600) 5. R32 fourdoor (mine has grown on me) 6. R32 GTR 7. DR30 8. new GTR 9. Sil80 10. 350z haha, I just realised this was a VIC thread. LMAO

Nice one, thank you. Thanks Cube's for the pic, makes sense now. Simon, check your PM's

Thanks for the offer but I'm getting a one piece made up, a bit bigger and stronger. While your getting the tail shaft made up could you measure the distance between the diff flange and the furthest point of the gearbox just so I can make sure the tail shaft I'm getting copied is the right length?? The one I'm getting copied is from an R32 with SR20 and Z32 gearbox so it should be the right length but I wanna double check before I go get it made up, my gearbox hasn't been delivered yet so I cant get the measurement myself. Or If anyone knows the difference in length of an RB20 box and R33 box I could work it out. Thanks

So thats from gearbox to flange or from uni to flange, then stock second half? thanks

Would love these wheels but dont have the spare funds.

Nah, I'm getting a one piece made up with bigger replaceable uni's. Don't wanna risk using the stock tail shaft with 350rwkw's. Did anyone measure the distance or did everyone just cut, weld and fit? Cheers

open to offers

The power FC has to be tuned so I'll get the AVCR done at the same time. Anyone have a measurement for the tail shaft length??

Serious, I always thought AVCR was up there with eboost. I've heard of people getting the plastic bit replaced with something stronger, was thinking of ways to make it myself but the hard part is getting it to fit back on the shaft (cable) because its got that bell shape around it so you cant get to it to make a slot or anything.

Damn, that sucks. So I hafta get a new speedo cable with the plastic bit in one piece aswell. I've already ordered a AVC-R, haha, at least its a good boost controller, not just a speedo.

Through a friend. Should be a bit of a mates rate's special. Not using a second hand yoke, it will be completely new and custom to handle the torque and power. Hardy Spicer.

fkn awsome thread tony. ^^^ Is the cross-factory kit a custom one or a multipul produced one?