=premo=

question. do your seats screw in from the side (brackets mount to side of seats)?? because i have 2 cobra dayton series 2 reclining bucket seats that screw in from underneath like a stock seat. has anyone seen a good rail set-up for these (i havnt looked yet so could be plenty) for an R32?? cheers

i think that the speed warning is suposed to come on at 105km/h (as mine and a mates does (imported R32 four doors)) mine is more dead than his so i havnt been botherd to get rid of it yet. i took my mates off it was simple and took less than 20min. im still yet to pull mine off and find out how they work, (mine quite often makes a 3 in one noise and when going downhill it doesnt make any noise).

hi, im after an RB20det air flow meter in good condition and weather strips (fourdoor32). cheers

have to say that installing my alpine head unit into my R32 was the simplest install i have ever done. www.installdr.com has a wire matching guide for head units in general. but does not mention the dimmer wire which i belive is next to the ignition wire on the plug (1985-1994). only annoying bit was shaping the trim of the headunit to suit the step up on the trim around the din slots in the dash. (just used a file and a very sharp knife to cut the plastic).

how much should i expect to be looking at for a brand new AFM for my R32??

ummmm... if its the common problem (sounds like it) alot of people seem to be getting this, its the AFM. i got the same problem with my R32 gts-t four door. only i havnt got the cash to get another AFM. take a look at "engine cut out" threads.

i just picked up the brackets from Zimporters for $20 (10 a side). best bet would be to look at half cuts and nab the factory head unit with the brackets.

This section is PURELY for ads, not responses or questions ALL ads are to include EVERY bit of detail that is possible and this includes at least the following: -Your price -Your email address -Your contact phone number -A full description of the product -Your location (nominate a price etc or it will be removed) Cheers, inark 48 hours given. Post removed. Edit this one and delete all the information i have put in here and add in all the information required.

could be wrong but i heard that the 32-34 kit was worth $10,000

cheers people

im starting to get a feeling that it could be a temprature problem (with mine). i changed the coolent and it seems to have made a difference. before the problem would happen after a while and then keep happening untill i left it and came back to it the next day. now when it happens i can turn the car off for 2min and it is fine again for a while (it also doesnt completly stop, it will still idle... kinda). im thinking that the factory gauge is bogus (reads at about 2/3) and that my increased boost (13psi) with no extra fuel is causing leanage thus slight over heating and bad fuel vapourisation (when boost comes on it stalls badly). i also want to take a look at my thermostat. question... what is the round metal tube that is half way along the top radiator hose and i take it that the thermostat is in the housing that joins from the bottem radiator hose?? also what is the recomended operating temprature range for the rb20det?? (i may perchase a temp gauge if i have some spare money). cheers daniel

ok, its not the AFM. its still happening, my mate took my r32 down to the engineer on friday (to adelaide and back from the hills good hour n a half of driving) and only had a small cut out once. i drove it that night and it died in the ass for about 5min aprox 4 times in traffic. not kewl. i have the stock air box on and it still happens (so not the pod filter). ive replaced the plugs and it hasnt happend since but i havnt traveled very far as my permit ran out last night. im going to bridgy to get it registerd tomorrow (i hope). my car is running 0.9bar with only a N1 cat back and the pod filter, and 0.75bar with stock air box. i cant find any other mods on the car. so it could be a boost problem?????

sooo many people seem to be having this type of problem, ther are alot of options that could be the problem. start with the AFM and fuel pump. check other forums eg, general m for more info.

well after swaping some parts with a firend, we may have found that the problem was the AFM all along, althow im not 100%. he used mine for aprox 3days with almost no trouble, but has said that it started cuting out a bit 2day and yesterday but no where near as bad as mine. he cleaned the AFM and now its fine. im getting a permit for my car wednesday so ill see if i still have the problems running his AFM.

thats probably cuz ther japan make terminals/battery. just get a normal battery and buy some new terminals, cheap ones are $15 or good ones are $35 each. ive got sum wicked good DLS ones and an oddessy 800.

well im definetly no expert but if you think about the fact that the ceramic turbo wheel is spining at aprox 12000rpm then you change gears and it has its own pressure stopping it... i kinda think it would be like punching a brick wall instead of pushing water. i like my turbo, want it to last.... althow im probably gonna try this blocking off thing just to hear it then put it back.

thanks, dont wanna take any risks but ur the third person to say it should be all good so im leavin it on.

are strut braces illegal, should i remove it for the roadworthy inspection? and does anyone know how many db's a cat back N1 sytem puts out? (3inch)

Hmmm boost could be the problem, im running 13psi (0.9bar on the HKS gauge). However the only mods i can see on my car are the exhaust and pod filter, no boost controller or anything similar. so how the **** do i get it back down, keeping in mind this car (import) is yet to go for the roadworthy test to get it registered. Is it possible to be running 13psi with only a N1 cat back (3inch) and pod filter???? cheers

does the fuel pump work by the ecu controlling a negative wire and the positive being controlled by the ignition on switch? so if i was to ground the negative to the car body the fuel pump would be on all the time except when the ignition is on acc or off? do you know what the colour code is for the neg wire? (if you havent guessed im new to the skyline world, big upgrade from the worked NA datto) thanks, daniel

hmmm NOS ayyyy.... sounds fun

anyone?? im looking for a wiring diagram for a r32 gts-t (four door). i did a search but couldnt find anything useful. or if anyone has a diagram of the fuel pump wiring + colour codes. cheers

finaly sounds like sumone knows what going on. thank you, but ummm whats a oscilliscope? i take it its some type of multi meter device?? im going to spend a good day on it 2morrow (changing all mods back to standard to get it complied), any left over time befor work will go into fixing this problem, ill let you know how i go. thanks again

my imported r32 fourdoor has a couple of mods that indicate to me it was used for drift... so im wundering if the hicas has already been locked... how would i go about finding out if it is? cheers

this problem sounds exactly like my problem only mine has gone from a once off thing to happening 3 times in the distance of 2km, happens at idle or when backing off after full throtle (both a couple of seconds after and in the small back off between gears). almost didnt make it home last nite, half hour befor my permit ran out!!! so how do i go about checking the suggested possibilities, keeping in mind i cant drive it anywhere legaly. i do have acess to a mates r32 (swap ecu's etc). i dont think its the ignitor module as it can cutout/die without warning on a cool nite after no hard aceleration and only 2-3minutes after start up. cheers