Brackez

5 stud for turbos, 4 stud for N/As.

I built a tough 192 for my LX Torana a couple of years ago, my first serious attempt at a mechanical sort of project. Broken up by interstate trips, uni etc, it took about 2 years by the time I finished everything and went to drop it in. The big day arrived, I had the car and engine in Dad's shed, and after much stuffing around with the engine crane the spline finally lined up and dropped in. Bursting with anticipation I bolted everything together, turned the engine over on the starter to get oil pressure up, and started it. Joy! It ran! The rough idle in the tin shed was music to my hoonish young ears! The thin, steady trickle of running in oil onto the shed floor from the back of the engine was less inspiring however. Much prodding, poking and chin scratching led my father to the inevitable conclusion that we were going to have to pull the f*ckin thing back out again. Which we did. All gaskets were clean, all bolts tight. Everything looked great, till I suddenly realised I was reading the numbers on the back of the lovely lumpy cam. I thought the guys making the welsh plug kits were just being generous & that's why I had a spare.....

Yes, anything else eye-catching? Will be keeping an eye out, hope you get her back in one piece.

What about a simple non-return valve in the blower output shaft? As long as there was a vent somewhere in the blower for excess pressure once the turbos took over (or a clutch system as already mentioned) it should work. Not sure, it may still be a fake, but I don't see why it has to be.

Sounds about right, mine's pretty sluggish off the mark unless it has some revs up before I drop the clutch. If that pod fillter isn't partitioned and it was a warm day, it would probably make things worse. A cold air induction set up should help, or maybe go back to the stock airbox with a decent panel filter. Either will stop your engine inhaling warm under-bonnet air.

Perhaps a bit of copy & paste? Would love to see this guy get hacked on. He gives car enthusiasts everywhere a bad name.

Ah, re-read your first post, gotcha . Bloody clever things LSDs, seen all the pics attempting to explain how they work, think I'd actually have to pull one to bits and stuff about with it to fully understand them tho.

'But when you put the foot down on a corner in an open center car, its the inside wheel that starts spinning..' I know the thread question has been answered, but have to throw my 2c in: the above is a result of weight transfer. Side G-loading through a corner inevitably places more weight on the outside wheel than the inside. Hence, the friction forces between the road and tyre are higher for the outside wheel. This means that with an excess of power to both wheels, the easier wheel to spin is the inside one. This is the point of a LSD really, to reduce the tendency of the inside/lighter wheel to spin when it breaks traction by limiting the transfer of power from one wheel to another.

Yes! For Pete's sake end this gibberish...

'Keep the same rules in place for 10 years.. saves a lot of ****ing around.' True, but that only works if the rules make sense and actually work. Otherwise they'll be either reviled or ignored, in which case you might as well not have them at all. Standardisation of speed limits/penalties between states wouldn't hurt either.

I'm curious about what people think of the proposed increase in parking costs from some Sydney local councils for owners of large 4WDs/high fuel consumption vehicles. I know this may not appear to be an issue that will affect most performance import drivers, but with fuel consumtion being discussed as a means of scaling the rate increases I would like to hear from any one who knows how they will determine a car's fuel consumption. If it's by registered vehicle type/engine capacity etc, no problems but are they likey to consider modifications or test individual cars? Could be an issue down the track if they do.

Igor :werd:

Not actually sure what the differences would be, I suppose it would depend on how far away the garage was, speeds travelled at to get there etc. Best way to set them cold would be to get a tyre pressure gauge (not too expensive for the simple pen type ones), then let them down progressively at home till you get the cold pressure you're after .

What a cynical bunch you are! At least these are steps in the right direction rather than the usual tax-payer funded ad campaigns plastered in papers, tv etc to justify their revenue raising. If they are going to persist with the principle of no tolerance, speeding by 5km/h increases braking distances heaps etc, then they must attempt to show that the focus is on improving safety rather than treasury balances. Increasing points and dropping fines seems a fair way to do it. I'll agree that the point penalties for you guys in NSW were too high to begin with though, no points in WA for up to 9km/h over.

'Who's thread?' 'Thread's dead baby, thread's dead'.