Brackez

I'll just pick my jaw up off the floor now... It's sad to find that I've become so cynical about 'road safety' laws in recent years that I am rendered speechless by an announcement such as this, but having recovered my faculties I am compelled to sing Mr Costa's praises as loudly as possible . Finally, someone has taken a long, hard, objective look at the problems with our road rules and had a genuine go at solving them rather than using them as a vote-buying platform. I would urge everybody who drives/rides any sort of vehicle at all to support this bloke in any way possible: he sounds like a long awaited voice of reason :headbang: .

Hooray! Another Heavy Slow Vehicle off the road

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...t=brake+upgrade This might help

LPG as sold at the pump is high-octane enough to run better compression than 98 unleaded, but it's not as good as it could be. Pure propane is better again, and I believe it is what was originally sold as LPG, but this is no longer the case. Not sure why, perhaps someone out their with a little more wisdom could clarify the differences between pure propane and pump LPG?

That's pretty lousy rd-runr. Maybe go back and ask them nicely if any of them want their 13mm spanner back, via the rectum :kick:

:werd:

GTST: 10psi is standard? Have been labouring away under the belief it was 7. I was planning some basic mods including a bleed valve to get 10-11, does this mean I can actually look for 13-14 with no dramas?

R32-Originar Godzirra! Should have had a spot to vote for 30s/31s as well, older 2 door would be second choice for me

Turbo 6: RB26DETT (Of course. Closely followed by 2JZ-GTE) N/A 6: Hard pick, 265 Hemi (1/4 mile champ for all Aussie made cars till 96-V8s included) over 186 red motor (need some work to make em go, but they rev like mad for an old pushrod heap). V8: 350 Chev- widely regarded as the best bang for buck drag engine available. Turbo 4: FJ20DET. N/A 4: the 1400 in my sister's old rwd 323. It took a thrashing , never missed a beat, and was amazingly simple to work on. SOHC & crossflow head not bad for 78.

Maybe not, bit of a long shot like I said. Easy to test though: wind the stops up until the bonnet is really hard to shut and go for a drive. If it shuts up, keep backing off till you find a happy medium. If not, sorry dude, back to the drawing board

Silly isn't it: nothing in the Skyline, have been pretty good for the most part. Lost 3 point & $150 for chasing a mate's V8 panelvan while driving my old Torana :headspin: . Cop was sympathetic & booked us for 88 in a 60 zone, reality was more like 110. He could also have canaried both of us on the spot, or done us for reckless driving for weaving in & out of traffic (there wasn't much, it was 1am), so I considered myself a lucky young idiot & was very sensible thereafter. Mostly .

No power steering is only annoying if the car weighs heaps, is front wheel drive or is in need of a wheel alignment/tyres etc. A lightweight rear-driver such as the corolla mentioned above should have very light unassisted steering. More importantly- it will also use bugger-all fuel, cost bugger-all to insure and cost-you guessed it- BUGGER-ALL to buy in the first place. AND you won't worry about it when you park it in a dodgy pub car-park, or next to the trolley return at the supermarket. Learn to drive it really well, and experience the warm glow that comes from embarrassing the inept drivers of much flashier and more expensive cars in your old shitbox. Then when you buy your Skyline/Silvia, you'll know how to drive it well AND will appreciate it more.

Sharpen the screwdriver first (makes it useless for anything else, but always good for filter changes ). If you can, get one with a square shaft & have a flat part of the shaft facing the direction you want to turn the filter: makes it harder for the screwdriver to rip the metal.

Bit of a long shot, but have you looked at the front bonnet rubbers? They are adjustable, and if old and over-compressed they don't provide enough support for the bonnet. Used to notice it on long drives (after at least an hour), drove me nuts till I worked it out. The old ones were so buggered I changed them, no noise since :headspin:

The stock boost gauge should show if you have an effective boost increase, but as already mentioned with the small range of movement of the needle your ability to quickly and accurately read it at the engine/road speed required to make max boost is the limiting factor. I've only got stock boost & gauge and to be honest I hardly ever look at the gauge cause it's too small. Drove a Supra with an aftermarket one, much easier to read being larger and in a better position.

Got to agree with the grouchy old pessimists above: I started with a $1500 rust bucket too. The plus with old heaps of shit such as this is that you can learn as you go. I had no fear about ripping bits off it, changing stuff, doing all my own servicing etc. because I figured there wasn't much I could damage on something as simple as what I was driving (LX Torana. Laugh away but I loved her...). The less it's worth, the less it costs to insure as well. Less worry about it getting pinched, scratched, run into etc, and old paint makes changing lanes easier too :kick:

The phenomena often referred to in discussions about lightening engine/driveline components about climbing hills depends largely on what you are doing with engine rpm/throttle position while approaching a hill. An engine with a lighter flywheel will, if a constant throttle position is maintained, lose rpm faster than a standard one. HOWEVER- the lightened flywheel (with less inertia) has less resistance to an increase in rpm, so if approaching the same hill you, say, go back a gear and feed in more throttle it will provide better ACCELERATION up said hill than a standard, heavy flywheel (assuming the engine has sufficient HORSEPOWER to accelerate the car up the hill in the first place ).

Yeah, same as above: gauge reads in 100mmHg increments up to 700. Given 760mmHg is about 1 bar (or 14.7 psi), half scale deflection (300-400mmHg) is about 7 psi which is wgat it should be.

FYI- Nissan released about 100 R32s as 'test-bed' cars for the RB25DET near the end of the production run for the R32. I would say most stayed in Japan, but I saw a white one for sale once in an auto trader mag about 3 years ago from an import dealer in Qld. He wanted about $5k more for it than from the other 32s in the yard and claimed to have original documentation for the car-svc hist, factory placards for engine & car combo etc. If you really want this combo, you'll have to transplant I think.

My 2 cents: drove a fastback 289 mustang, was horrified. Owned an LX Torana at the time with a pretty hot 192 and some very mild cheap suspension mods, couldn't wait to get back into it after the gutless, understeering bodyrolling nightmare that is America's most over-rated 'muscle' car. Am aware that Eleanor is a different story, as with all Shelby/GT products, but why start with a car based on a soggy tub of lard? The Cobra may be less practical-uncovered and built for shorties, but you'll be able to put your own stamp on it with a Jap driveline. That's an interesting idea, wondering if it's been done before. Originals were apparently prone to understeer, but with a 400+ cube yank V8 in the front of an otherwise light frame that's par for the course surely. RB26 would have to be a better prospect.

Thanks Drifter, if I get keen enough to want new cams etc they'll get fixed when the head gets lifted. As long as I know it's not likely to be a huge drama I'm not gonna worry about it for now. Car doesn't get caned too often, no drag/drift days so far

Ok, not an actual failure- more of a question about something my uncle noticed the other day. I'm missing both end mounting studs off the exhaust manifold: both sheared off (can still see threaded ends in bolt holes in head). He said he had an RB30 non turbo VL that had exactly the same thing. Drove it for another 100 000kms with no apparent problems. Mine shows no evidence of exhaust leaks and performs fine, just wondering if any other RB owners had noticed this (might not be the best place to post this, but this seems to be the greatest concentration of people doing destruct testing... ). R32 GTS-t RB20DET 3" cat back (yup, that's all 4 now).

Excellent thread! Paid $1500 for a rusty LX hatch Torry b4 I could drive. Spent three years beating the crap out of the gutless 202 & doing minor mods: 14" wheels, extractors, twin SUs. Learnt a lot, saved again & spent $4k building a 186 (192 after 60 thou overbore ). Built it myself, had triple SUs (yes, a bugger to tune but so worth it!), 3:2 rollas & solids in a custom ported 173 head with o/s valves. 11:1 compression (had to put hard valve seat inserts in to run 98 RON unleaded, or AVGAS when I could get it) with a 300degree 296 thou lift cam. Was a great pleasure to chew up & spit out VN SSs, SSS pulsars etc in a car that looked like shit on the outside. Still have it, but off the road thanks to a d*ickhead in a mobile crane have a brain failure on a wet morning & getting sideways when I was off his back corner. Time & money permitting, might rebuild the car or get hold of a little rail/altered dragster to slot the engine into. Hello methanol & triple sized jets for the SUs if I go that road.

Thursday about 8:30pm, after late night shopping at Garden City doing bang on 60 (missus + shopping in car) up Riseley St. Patrol car doing 70 or so comes up behind me, sits up my arse for half a k b4 the lights came on. Strange really, it was like he was chasing me but then couldn't make his mind up about pulling me over. When he did, both cops got out, wandered around the car for a couple of minutes after checking my license then said have a nice night and buggered off. If I didn't know the car was a fresh import when I bought it, I'd have thought they were checking it wasn't stolen. Have had no tickets/defects/contact with fuzz at all in the year I've had the car so I don't see my plates ringing any alarm bells. Weird. Still, reinforces the idea of keeping it subtle mods-wise & being pleasant to the boys in blue :kick:

Glad it's not just me, having the same problems with my R32, compressor didn't want to spool up, when it did it cycled on & off without cooling the car down. Diagnostic check in driveway displayed sunload sensor code, was wondering where it is & how to get to it/fix/change it. Might also get the system checked to see if it needs regasssing. Had the car for a year, no dramas up till now. Any aircon gurus out there?