VSPEC-33

I think what he's trying to get at is the offsets and what is most suitable to a GTR R33 GT-R Standard rims are 17 x 9 +30 offset TS TE37 rims are 18 x 10.5 +15 offset According to http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp this will give you Inner Clearance: 4mm LESS (the inside of the wheel to the strut housing) Outer Position: EXTEND an extra 34mm (position of the outside edge of the wheel) I've got 18 x 10 +18 Work XD9's and they clear perfectly ( 1mm LESS inner clearance, EXTEND 25mm more) So i reckon there's room for 9mm more protrusion outwards compared to my car I went looking for these before i bought my rims but couldnt find any for realistic money; they are defintely worth the money and rare as hens teeth. If some one were to buy my rims i'd be puttin in an offer on them!

I was looking for some info myself and came across some of what you're after... Ive just cut and pasted the details from various posts... Engine: 4.6L is the factory spec (when changing the filter also) but up to 5L is acceptable to stop oil surge if taking to the track Transfer: transfer case takes seperate fluid 1.8l ATF. I filled it via the gear selecter in the cabin but I assume there is a proper filler on the side somewhere too. Yes. There's a square drive taper filler plug on the back face of the transfer case 'bulge'. Diffs: Ok, just looked through the service manual and it recommends the following for the diffs: Front Final Drive (F160): GL-5 85W-90 (~1l) Rear Final Drive (R200): GL-5 80W-90 (1.5l) Most of this info is from this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t58968.html Otherwise, alittle more searching may help you with any other info you're after. Cheers

PM sent Swapping the clutch isnt really an option seeing as i ordered it from o/s, and also the flywheel and plates are bolted to engine already.

Thanks mate, sorting out the parts to convert it back to a pull type. In case anyone else has this drama in the future, if the slave cylinder is mounted on the engine side of the clutch fork on an R33 GTR, you have a push type clutch. Might pay to have a quick look under the car first before you order your clutch kit

Can someone please help me....... Ive got the nismo twinplate setup. The flywheel, clutch and pressure plates are all bolted to the crankshaft, no major dramas... BUT Im having trouble figuring out how the thrust bearing is supposed to sit, and why the clutch fork doesnt fit around the bearing (obviously it fits around the old one). The only thing i can think of is that the fork maybe particular to the ORC twinplate that was in the car? It almost seems as if the ORC one is a puch type where-as i assume the R33 should be pull type from factory... Ive got a few pics and i hope that someone can please help me out....

I'll let you know how i go in the following week, i'm sourcing a bottom lip for my series 2 GTR... Got a few places that i've found can get them, just sussing out prices atm....

I had a good laugh when i watched that story. The testing wasnt even conclusive, they should have had both cars going around the speed bowl for 100kms, then change the 'magic sachet' to the other vehicle and run the same test. That one car could have been better from the factory,the reporter was in the back car, did the front car also carry a passenger (less weight better economy) etc, etc........ I'd still like to know what it physically does to the air and how it supposedly does it

They are a much better car than the previous models, but that doest mean they are perfect by any stretch. I drove an SSV which was sensational, nice ride, great power and handled pretty decent for a standard road car.This was a nice example. Then i drove an Omega, brakes grinding on mild application, rear suspension so soft it shifted the car half a lane sideways on bump rebound, and the steering felt totally dead. This car was a dud. Both were new cars with under 5000 kms. Holden just doesnt have the build quality or have that solid quality feel. But at their price point i guess you cant really argue, it costs money to build a quality vehicle and the average would agree to pay that much.... my 2 cents

Unless you can find the precise spot halfway up the travel of the pedal where there is 1cm of movement from off to on; without going too far and stalling it, or too slowly and youve just rolled into the car thats up your arse.... All clutches werent created equal, some are harder to drive than others, as its not my daily driver i dont know the car inside and out. We cant all be perfect. The handbrake works so it use, less rpm, no rolling backwards, less clutch wear.

I reckon the 'ol handbrake hill start is the easiest. Keep the handbrake on (no foot brake) and feed out the clutch until the rpm drops a smidge and you can feel the xar move a fraction. Then at the same time, release h/b give it a touch more throttle and feed out the clutch, and woila! you're away...... You can go with the excess throttle and clutch dump, but that attract a bit too much attention at times

Ive used Nengun a couple of times, and bar the initial wait while the parts are ordered in, it was perfect. I dont mind waiting with the prices that can be had. New website looks pretty good, might have another look now.......

Where did you get this exhaust from? I'm looking for a quieter exhaust that also gives me more ground clearance, looks like this one might. What model Fujitsubo is it?

Happy Birthday Wayne!.... have a good one

It could just be a worn out o-ring on the oil dipstick. I had this happen occasionally, bought a new dipstick from Nissan and no probs. Forced induction cars will have more positive crankcase pressure and it will try and find the easiest way out, like out the dipstick if it has a weak seal

It's a long shot, but could he have also changed the gearbox fluid when he installed the clutch. If its heavier weight than what you had you'd notice the notchiness(if thats a word )

OK now i'm confused more progressive means less on/off switch style performance right, thats what i'm after.... Heres a pic that help explains what i'm trying to figure out:

I squeezed 6.5" Focal in my 33, mind you the air drill had to used to give some clearance ro make the front face a bit more circular. And if it had a back on it i thing it jigsawed it off. A 6" shouldnt be too difficult as long as it doesnt have a massive basket on it.

No ball here, or cable either. Mainly because my pc is also connected to an lcd tv. Pick up keyboard and mouse and move them without tangling yourself up in wires.

As long as i can get the time off work and my cars not broken at the time, i'm in for this one. Road trip and two trackdays in a place ive never been before..... awesome idea

Ok looks like i might leave the standard slave in as long as its not too heavy. I was imagining it like changing the pivot point, giving it move leverage. Lighter feel and and more pedal movement reqd to do the same work(but with less effort) Hydraulics i'll admit i dont know too much about....

I thought the nismo clutch was supposed to give you 'stock feel' and be very 'driveable'. I was hoping to get away from the on/off style of the old clutch. I guess i'll find out in a few weeks..... if the larger nismo slave decreases pedal effort, it should also slightly increase the amount of pedal travel from disengaged to engaged?

The blue Japanese VIN plate will read BCNR33-xxxxxx normal R33 Skylines will start with ECR instead

I think supercheap or possibly autobarn were advertising a Kenwood CD tuner for $149 on the telly the other day. So if the dollar was the bottom line this sort of unit should suit your needs. Pretty sure base model Pioneers come with iPod conectivity out of the box these days, dont know if the Kenwood does

Just seeing those Volk RE-30's i concur No. 1 pick Otherwise CR-KAI or CE28N if the offset give enough of a dish.

Havent really had my car up on a hoist and looked at the gearbox, but is changing the slave done with the gearbox out? or can it be accessed whilst still in the car?