nizmo_freek

Very nice!!!! post some more pics hehe

What are you guys thoughts on the fuchs (spelling??) fully synthetic 15w40 for a rb25det? ive used it in my old gtst rb20det and my current gts25t and never had any problems with it.

Awsome, my payment was just confirmed

I just payed 30mins ago via paypal, hope it works

Count me in for sure!!!! Only problem is im in new zealand, i do have a paypal account tho so payment wont be a problem, if you can ship it to n.z for me that would be great. Let me know if this is deffinatly going to happen and what price including postage (let me know the price in n.z dollars and i will work it out)

Just looks like the normal r32 gtr gunmetal grey to me?? That gtr is extremly straight!!!

Check all your vacuum lines, sounds loike you may have left one off or split one when you removed the bov and boost controller

Heres some evidence http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=131579 Its also happened to a few guys on www.skylinesdownunder.com in n.z, so i will be getting mine replaced when i get the cambelt,waterpump and tensioners done just for peice of mind. Would rather spend a few bucks on new studs then having to rebuild my motor.

Those wheels are Rota P45R's or Rota GTR's

The real question is how far do you want to go with this?? The possibilities are endless and it all comes down to how far you want to open your chequebook.

I would also recomend replacing the tensioner pulley studs aswell, i have heard of a few horror stories of peoples tensioner studs snapping and causing the valves to obviously hit the pistons, would be very pricey to fix so i will be getting mine done on my 90xxxkm service just to be safe.

Most of the weights quoted by manufactures are dry weights, no fuel etc. So if you happen to weigh your car with some fuel in the tank thats why it will be heavier. The way i worked out my old cars weight was to go and fill the car up with fuel untill it cant be filled no more (the stock r32 fuel tank holds 65litres so i have been told) then put your car on the weight bridge (make sure there is nothing in the boot etc) ,mine came up as 1390kg. the car had a full tank of gas and some heavier than standard 17" wheels and tyres, i have also been told that 1litre of pertrol = 1kg so subtract 65kg's of weight for the 65 litres of fuel in the fuel tank, which would bring the weight down to 1335kg, take away another say 4kg for each aftermarket wheel and tyre as they are quite a bit heavier than the standard wheels, so thats another 16kg of added weight over the stock figure. 1390kg full tank -65kg for 65litres of fuel -16kg for the aftermarket wheels =around 1320kg which is pretty much bang on nissans quoted weight

MMMMMMM white TE37's

R33 GTS25T coupes are quoted by nissan to weigh 1360kg so i highly doubt a r32 gtst will be the same weight lol, also if your driving by yourself most of the time you could remove the passengers seat as they do weigh a bit, and you could remove other things like both rear seats, parcel tray, aircon if you dont use it, glovebox, remove anything that you dont need and leave the bare essentials if you want to get serious.

I just put in some NGK BCPR6ES (heat range 6 and come pregapped to 0.8mm) and the car feels alot better down low and up high, although there is still some slight hesistation around 2500-3000rpm which im not sure what the cause of that is.

Is your car a r32 gtst coupe?? if so i thought they were 1320kg from factory?, i have heard that the older r32's (1989-1991) were lighter as the newer r32's have extra side intrusion beems or something along those lines which adds weight to them, also factory fitted options like sunroof,abs etc will add more weight to your car. My old 1989 r32 gtst 4door auto with sunroof and no abs weighed 1330kg on a weight bridge with full standard interior, sounds, coilovers, 17"s, front mount, front and rear strut braces, so your car could possibly already be under 1300kg with the parts that you have removed.

Have a read of this thread, should help you out a bit http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=147111

Sorry i didnt take a pic, i might just go and buy a set of NGK R's BKR6ES11 (heat range 6) and gap them down to 0.8mm and see how i go, if i do decide to do that i will post up the results Cheers for all the help guys

I gapped my plugs down to 0.8mm tonight and it has deffinatly made a difference, the hesistation down low has almost gone (still hesistates a little bit sometimes), and it dosent seem to feel sluggish down low anymore. When i pulled the plugs out the tips and the white porcelain was all very clean (almost brand new looking), but the conductor (the part that you tap down to reduce the gap) was white, and also the white porcelain just above the hex part of the spark plug (same shape as a nut) looked like it had a little bit of white powder around it and also looked a bit blistered Which possibly means that i need to go to a colder heat range spark plug (most likly a heat range 6) Can anyone confirm if my plugs heat range 5 is ok for my application (i only have a catback and decat pipe at the moment but will be adding more mods in the near future) or judging by my explanation above are my plugs overheating?? Cheers Jason

Cheers mate Cost me $1135 (New Zealand dollars) and worth every cent lol

Heres some pics, i highly recomend the hks silent high power, i couldnt find anything that came close to it money wise (it is excellent quality, stainless steel so will last forever, great sound, JASMA approved so was rated at 95db, looks awsome, gave a nice increase in power) i am also now using a 3" decat pipe which has made it a little bit louder but not too loud (sounds awsome on song) The only negatives about it is it does sit a little bit lower than a custom made system would but that really the only drawback.

Hey mate I have puchased and fitted a hks silent high power catback to my r33 gts25t, i seriously dont think it would become a restriction at 290rwkw and it is very very free flowing with a very large pipe size, some of the mesurements i took of the outer diameter of the pipes were, 3.5" for the 1st part of the catback which is from the end of the cat to the square flange which the 2nd part of the exhaust containing the muffler bolts to, and the 2nd part of the exhaust measured 102mm (if i can remember correctly) which im pretty sure is 4" which should be able to flow alot of air (lots of guys in the u.k use the silent high power on there gtr's etc, It also uses a bullet style center muffler instead of a oval shaped box muffler which will be less restrictive, and no it dosent have a push in restictor.

Cheers for the reply mate, i will check if the plugs are overheating when i have some spare time It says on the iridium box "Do not adjust spark gap due to extremly fine center electrode", i just tried gapping down a used set of iridium spark plugs and when you insert the feeler gauge (after they have been gapped down) to check if the gap is correct then remove the feeler gauge it bends the center electrode and because its so fine the electrode sometimes snapps off! So i dont exactly want to risk trying to gap down $80 worth of ngk iridium plugs to find that the electrodes snapp off.

Im using NGK IRIDIUM BKR5EIX-11, so i guess that means that they are heat range 5 and have a gap of 1.1mm, is this heat range ok (mods at the moment are hks catback and decat pipe)??? The reason i ask is because at the moment my car seems to hesitate randomly down low sometimes (usualy in 2nd and 3rd gear) and feels a bit sluggish down low aswell (goes fine at 100% throttle in every gear). And sometimes has a very quiet pop out the exhaust. Do you reccomend i keep the plugs i am using now and gap them down to 0.8mm? or go and buy a different heat range plug and gap that down to 0.8mm?? I would really appreciate some help as its getting a bit frustrating lol By the way someone should sticky this thread!! it will come in handy for alot of people im sure Cheers

Look foward to seeing some pics, good luck with the purchase.