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nizmo_freek

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Everything posted by nizmo_freek

  1. Well took my car for a drive tonight and it was feeling rather slow, so i gave it a bit of gas and all of a sudden i get heaps of popping and ratling out the exhaust,im guessing its missing??? It coffs and popps from about 4000rpm right up to the rev limiter, and it feels very very slow, the car has never had a miss since ive owned it (about a year and a half).My mods are 3"exhaust,intercooler,pod and gtr fuel pump, i installed the gtr fuel pump about 3weeks ago and the car has never missed a beat untill tonight , ive taking out all the plugs and they all seem fine (there ngk iridiums, about a year old) they are a little bit brown tho, so what else can i check?? The car was also boosting very high when it was missing, about 0.8-0.9bar (it normally holds 0.7bar right to redline) Cheers
  2. Are there any side affects from using the power fc on an auto??many people say they dont run like factory e.g wont kick down gears etc etc, ive been looking around at engine management for a while (i have a r32 gtst auto) and have read that "no" aftermarket ecu (including the greddy e-manage & e-manage ultimate) can cope with the factory auto ecu as it cuts ignition timing when changing gears!so my only real option is chipping the ecu or getting a safc, which im not really to keen on using!Yours is the only auto ive heard of using a power fc without any problems so some help would be much a appreciated, cheers
  3. Everything is operating fine!nothing is wrong, the car dosent smoke,theres usualy shit all oil in the catch tank (just some watery condensation) and runs perfectly etc etc, the oil being sucked into the intake is from the breather being directly feed into the intake pipe, pretty simple really! If your turbo seals were toast wouldnt the car smoke very badly??
  4. It is very likely, and in my case it was the exact problem.I used to get tons of oil in the intake pipe and the afm and filter were always covered in oiley residue so i installed a catch tank and have never had the same problem, the intake pipe,afm and filter are always 100% clean now!
  5. Bump, any more help ??
  6. 200rwkw sounds like a good goal, the car is actually an auto so i guess im aiming for somewere around 190rwkw (about 205-210rwkw in a manual), i dont want a turbo thats going to be running at its max all the time (1.5bar does seem like alot of boost for 200rwkw,it is a rather small turbo so i guess it needs lots of boost to make its power) i also want the car to be responsive and quick. Will the 2510 bolt right on without any mods to (dump pipe,water lines,oil lines and intake pipe etc).I can pick up the hks2510 for about $1000 n.z 2nd hand, the 2530 sounds like the ideal turbo for the good old rb20 but are rather rare here in N.Z. I searched CHRIS32 and it didnt come up with anything Cheers
  7. Thats some awsome power man, contrats!!
  8. I know it has probally been covered before but i have done a search and cant find any info, so some help would be much appreciated Im looking for some information on an hks2510 on a rb20, have any of you had any experiance with this setup??what are the pros and cons??I have read that the exhaust housing is the same size as the standard rb20det turbo but has steel/bigger wheels and a bigger compressor housing, would it run out of puff higher in the rpm??Have also read that it spools pretty much the same as the standard turbo and is only able to make 200-220rwkws at the most on about 1.1-1.3bar.I really want to go for a hks2530 but they are quite hard to come by here in N.Z (have seen them for sale for $3.600 brand new ) Here are the specs of the 2510 HKS GT2510 - 300 PS Output COMPRESSOR: -Wheel- 63 Trim - 47.7 Inducer / 60.1 Major -Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R TURBINE: -Wheel- 62 Trim - 53.0 Major / 41.7 Exducer -Housing- GT25 inlet / Internal GT25 oulet - 0.64 A/R Cheers Jason
  9. Just go for a 600x300x76, not much cutting required really, only the plastic front bumper and some of the metal bumper support bar (i only cut mine because of the way i modified my bumper, so i dont think it even needs to be cut, fills the bumper perfectly,fits in there very nicely and looks great heres some pics
  10. My cars 17years old anyway (its a 1989 gtst), so its not like im putting a older pump in a newer car, im going for the gtr fuel pump because of ease of fitment, i dont want to be mucking around with aftermarket pumps (changing wiring,lines and mounting it) so the gtr pump seems to be the easiest solution,and quite cheap to at $250 N.Z
  11. I had the exact same problem in my r32 gtst, turned out that it already had aftermarket bushes fitted but they were very squeeky as it looked like the shaft that goes inside the arm and the bush had been rubbing on the bolt that holds the bush and the shaft inside the smaller part of the upper control arm (the shortest link if you know what i mean) causing them to squeek, so i ripped them out and replaced them with nolathane bushes (they were actually made pretty crappy as the bolts didnt even fit inside the shafts so i had to go and get them bored out), they completly fixed the problem and made the front a bit stiffer.
  12. Which wires need to be cut and rejoined???Any chance you or someone else has some pictures, they would help me out heaps. Cheers
  13. Im looking at putting a r32 gtr fuel pump into my r32 gtst, Ive read that the pump goes in without any modification, but what about the loom, does it have to be modified at all??Is the standard fuel pressure regulator ok with the gtr fuel pump as ive been advised to get an adjustable regulator??? Any advice or tips would be very much appreciated Cheers
  14. 1989 r32 gtst auto standard everything apart from: 2.5"slipt dump pipe full 3" exhaust cheap as pod filter (no cold airbox or heatsheild) 600x300x76 FMIC with 2.5" piping stock boost 139.7rwkw
  15. This is how i done mine,just have the lines coming off the breathers to a catch can, remove the PCV valve (the little valve thats on the intake manifold which the drivers side breather goes into) and insert a short bolt with the exact same size thread (make sure its tight, but dont over tighten, you could even put some thread tape on the thread if you feel the need to), now block off the pipe on the passengers side that goes to the intake pipe (i just used a rubber bung to basically cap the end of the pipe, make sure it dosent leak air, the proper way would be to remove the whole pipe and block off the hole in the intake pipe between the turbo and AFM) works a treat and have never had a problem with it!Pretty simple really Heres a pic
  16. My 1989 r32 gtst 4door auto,with sunroof and a full tank of gas in full street trim weighed 1390kg, so im guessing it would weigh about 1320-1330kg dry, anyone else weighed there car??
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