nizmo_freek

25psi should be fine! you do relize there is a search function in the top right corner?

I couldnt agree with you more!!

Lol at this thread turning into another major "VS" bitch fight, just like all the rest of them.

Its in US dollars!

Thats a 3037 pro s kit ,same as i had. GT-RS kit dosent come with dump or intake pipe etc etc, they only come with oil lines and compressor elbow, that could be a 2835 turbo as i cant see the exhaust wheel to be sure, but if you order the 3037 kit they will send you a 3037 turbo ofcourse, by the way i would snapp that up asap, they are good people to deal with to even if they are a little hard to understand sometimes.

Hope this helps....

The one bellow B also goes to the steel hardline for the charcoal canister, B in your picture is the correct nipple to take the bov from as that were it is standard, has someone removed your charcoal canister as it seems like your has been played around with and mixed up, shouldnt cause any problems though if everything is setup correctly. Cant help with your other question sorry. cheers

B is the vacuum line for your bov A is a vacuum line that normally hooks up to the steel hardline that runs accross the top of your motor to the charcoal canister.

Have just had a called from my auto elec, he has checked all my wiring and has said its fine, has checked all the afm wiring from the afm to ecu and cant find any wiring problems, so he has told me that the ecu is faulty as its not supplying the afm with a ground/earth. Either i have somehow shorted out the afm circuit ,could have had the keys on when i didnt have the solder connections covered, could have touched together and shorted, also said static electricity can sometimes cause problems like this. Anyway, so it looks like my wiring is fine which is kool, he is going to send the ecu away and get it fixed, should cost around $150 which isnt to bad i spose, considering i just blew $670 on 2 afm, thinking i had bought faulty ones, oh well, lesson learned i guess. I will update this thread when i get the ecu back and hopefully the car will be running sweet and i cant finally get it up for sale, yay! Cheers for all the help guys, realy appreciate all the helpfull suggestions!!

Havent touched the fuel pump at all, its a nismo pump thats about 8months old anyway and was working perfect before i returned my car back to stock. I dropped my car off to an auto electrician this morning so im hoping he can find the problem, if he cant find it i dont know what im going to do lol.

Hmmmm, this is starting to get pathetic, ordered a brand new afm from rhdjapan last week (was quoted 1000nzd from a couple of traders on here, even they were shocked at the price when they gave me a quote), just received it today and have just tried it, same f*kin problem, car will start (actually starts a little bit better with the new afm) but then will just stall straight away, unplugg the afm and guess what? i starts and idles perfect, plugg the afm back in and it will die right way. Have just checked how well the wiring loom connector is plugged into the ecu and it looks fine, checked all the wires coming out of the connector and cant see any problems there. I dont know were else to look, but it has got to be a wiring issue for sure, i just dont know how the hell to figure out whats wrong with it, or a ecu fault or something. Would appreciate any more suggestions as this is really really starting to get to me, i cant even get it up for sale because i cant get it running Cheers

Good advice right there ,and you have proof that it works, that is pretty much what i will be planning to do when i track my gtr, i need to buy one 1st though hehe

In my opinion you should be fine with just overfilling your sump by 1litre, depending on the present condition of the motor ofcourse, everyone else in aussie seems to do it without any problems, its only when you start using semis and a decent suspension setup (higher cornering/braking g etc etc) that problems start occuring from what ive read. Maybe just stick to street tyres for track untill you get the oil control problems sorted, even just some oil restrictors (remove head, install restrictors, new headgasket, labour etc, wouldnt be too exspensive, could be done with the motor in the car too) and overfilling the sump would be a decent idea for moderate track use.

Care to explain these so called "flaws" to us? This should be funny lol

Very nice dude, looks ultra tidy! Abu, post some more pics of your gtr, what kinda wheels are they? looks awsome in those pics!

You wont gain any noticable power from a intercooler, but you will have the potential to make more power in the future as the stock smic wont be limiting you, however if change the front pipe and possibly dump (the stock dump isnt too bad in my opinion) you will get more of a gain for the money than buying a fmic.

From what i can see you have stock dump and front pipes, cant tell if you have a cat or not, also not sure what type of exhaust that is either.

Dude give up, all this type of shit does is ruin the forums, i seem to read something like this every week on here, someone starts an argument and it goes on and on, no one wants to read this sorta crap, so take it somewere else. Back on topic, the only transmission failures im aware of are 2, one was a white r35 from either tailand or singapore, which has now been sent back to nissan to have the trans replaced, and the other was from either russia or dubai or something, there is even vids of the guy on youtube doing donuts and countless LC vids, cant remember 100%, but as far as im aware both were privatly imported early build cars that never had the transmission softwear updated on them, wether or not that has contributed to the failed trans or not noone knows.. There is tons on this topic over at www.nagtroc.org. I suggest people have a browse over there if there looking for some real info!

Have just checked all fuses, they are all fine, 3lit3 32 im pretty sure the connector would be plugged in fine into the ecu as i have unplugged that many times and its never given me a problem at all. In my opinion i reckon it has to be a faulty afm, so looks like my original one had died and i then bought another dead one, just my luck, i will try and get my car to nissan tomorow to see if they can source exactly what is wrong with it.

Sure have haha, going to sell my car as standard so i can cure my gtr obsession hehe, this is the only thing stopping me from actually putting it up for sale at the moment though lol.

Im using the stock afm, hence only 3 wires lol, you must be thinking im using a z32 I previously had a z32 wired up correctly, was running sweet, its only now that i have changed back to the stock afm that i am having problems! Cheer

There is a pic (not very clear sorry) on page 2, post#22, ive connected the 3wires back up to thier corresponding colours just like they were before i cut the standard plug off to fit the z32 afm plug, im thinking maybe i somehow shorted them out while i was soldering them and blowing a fuse or relay or something. Have just looked at a fuse box diagram in english and i cant see anything on there for the afm, only thing that comes close if "Engine Control" Will go out in the garage again tonight and check all the fuses just to make sure.

Got my 2nd hand afm today , have just installed it in the car and tried it, same problem, car will not start with it plugged in, unplugg it and it will start and idle 100% perfect, i even tried pluggin the afm back in while the car was idling and it just dies. Either i have two faulty afms here or theres is a problem somewhere else. Does anyone know if the afm circut has a fuse or a relay anywhere? Need some more help, dont really want to take the car to nissan for them to sort out.

Have just reinstalled the "re-solderd" afm and absolutly no difference at all, the car will turn over and rev to about 200rpm for not even 1second then will just die, unplugg the afm and its starts 100% perfectly. Either my soldering job didnt do sweet F..k all, or there is a problem somewhere else, so have just bought a 2nd hand afm to try out, if that dosent work then it will be off to nissan to see if they can find the problem. Does anyone know how i can see if there are any error codes showing up? wouldnt mind having a look just to see if it shows up as a faulty afm. Cheers

Have just removed the afm and resolderd some of the joints in there, on of the pins looked a little bit loose, like the solder had crack, couldnt tell for sure though, so have put some extra solder on the pins , will leave the afm overnight to let the silicon around the top dry and will give it a go tomorow, if that dosent fix it then i will either by a 2nd hand afm or borrow someone elses. Also checked all my wiring before with a test light to check for current and everything is connected up fine. Cheers for all the helpfull replys, hopefully this fixes it so i can get it sold a buy a gtr