nizmo_freek

^^^ cheers for the pics man Right, i think were finally getting somewhere! Just went to start the car and it turn overs the revs get to about 200rpm then it just dies/stalls So i unplugged the air flow meter and went to start the car again, it started perfectly and the idle was nice and stable, plugged the afm back in and it wouldnt start again. So im guessing that there is either a problem with my wiring (dont think so as it all looks fine to me) or my air flow meter has deceided to die, that would explain the surgyness. Anyone had any similar problems?, and is there anyway i can test my air flow meter to see if its really is dead or not? i might take the top off it and check inside, maybe one of the solders has gone dry and isnt making contact 100%.

Ive taken those water temp sensors off plenty of times and it hasnt seemed to bother them, but i will check them anyway, might try and reset the ecu today and see what happens, dont think it will change anything though Cheers

Have just checked the afm wiring at it dosent look like there is any problems there, all the joints are still holding together nice and strong and nothing has broken, i took a pic of the sheilded wire that i was talking about before, it is actually 2 wires that are inside the sheilding, not sure if i have set the sheilded wire up correctly as i cant remember how it was setup when it was untouched, if i havent connected that up correctly could this be causing my problems, i though the sheilding was there to stop interferance or something, would it really matter that much? Also just checked the cars voltage, hooked up a mulitmeter to the termials in the fuel box in the engine bay, was 12.4v with the keys off and about 11.8v with the keys on acc wth the fuel pump pressurising the rail, couldnt check the volts while the car was running as i had the afm off, but thats sounds about right to me? Sorry for the crap pic, and i also had tape around each connection aswell, but i removed it to check them, you can see the sheilded wire is covering the blue/white and blue/orange wires.

Na , sold the power fc a couple of weeks ago, nice timing aye lol

I solderd all the connections on the afm and put a peice of heatshrink on each join, then taped them all up so there is no way they could be touching eachother or come loose, unless one of the joins and broken and is only making contact sometimes, one thing i did notice when i wired up my z32 afm ages ago was that one of the afm loom wires had a sheilded wire on it, i cant completly remember how it was hooked up, so at the moment i just have the wire that is sheilded joined to the wire from the afm, the sheilded part is just wrapped arounded the outside of the wiring and isnt actually "wired" to any of the connections i have made, lol sorry that probly makes no sense at all, hard to explain. Anyway i disconnected the 02sensor before and it made the car feel worse, so have plugged that back in, also tried swapping my standard coils with my splitfire coils that i was previously using and that made no difference at all Im 99% sure all the clamps are tight as i usually tripple check everything i have done, but might just check everything over again just to be sure. Its a very weird problem, your driving then all of a sudden the car starts stuttering (feels like it hits a brick wall) then it will usually feel like it has no throttle at all, like you put your foot down at nothing happens at all, then the revs will drop right down and the car will stall, it wont start up for atleast 3-5times then it will decided to start, i havent touched any tps wiring so dont think it will be anything to do with that. Might go out into the garage later and check the afm wiring again, but i really cant be stuffed, sick of trying things over and over , if i cant fix it by tuesday then it will be going into nissan for them to look at it.

If you actually read the my original post you would see that when i took one of the injectors out that is how the fuel got into the cylinder, who the hell would pour fuel into a cylinder anyway , and the only reason i put a bit of oil in the cylinder that had the fuel in it was because the fuel had been sitting in there for a weak, surely that would affect or even eat some of the oil around the piston, hence putting in a little bit of oil to try and lubricate it. And no and pinched injector will not cause the injector to deliver more fuel, but it will cause the injector to seal incorrectly against the fuel rail and cause a massive fuel leak when the fuel system/rail is pressurised, fuel gets past the bottom o-ring and leaks/sprays (depending on how bad the leak is) into the cylinder, trust me, i have done it once before when i installed my nismo injectors for the 1st time, was a $400 mistake as my turner had it fix it before the car was tuned! Anyway, the injectors obviously arent the problem anymore, so im still looking for helpfull answers. Cheers

Yup i know, just wasnt sure what it was called when it is full of fuel and wont turn over lol. Anyway, it started up fine a couple of hours ago after it had been on the charger for a while, but was still having the major stuttering/surging and stalling problems. I have it on the charger now and will leave it on over night, will start it up tommorow morning just to check if it starts up fine again. Im thinking that either somthing electrical is causing my problems or there is a vaccum leak somewhere that i cant find, could possibly be a faulty afm or 02 sensor aswell. All i have done is remove my hks turbo,power fc and boost control kit,injectors,z32 afm , and returned everything back to stock. Have checked that the boost solenoid was hooked up correctly, have made sure the injector o-rings are seating properly and not leaking fuel when there is pressure in the rail, made sure i wired the standard afm back up correcty but will check again in the morning, have installed standard turbo and intake pipe/bov return setup which was working fine when my car was running the standard ecu ages ago, am also using all the same hoses and clamps on my intercooler piping that i was using when my car was runnign 270rwkw. So im pretty stumped as to what could be causing it, maybe the 02sensor has decided to die right now just to be a pain the ass but highly unlikely, will unplugg tomorow and see if it makes a diffrence. Anyway i will keep working on it to see if i can source the problem, if i cant then i will get nissan to take a look at it (More money down the drain, not good when im trying to save for a gtr lol). Any more ideas would be great Cheers

Yea it would turn over quickly without the plugs in, i have had it sitting on a car charger for about 4hours now. I just went to start it up before and it started fine , but have just been driving for about 10mins and the car is an absolute peice of shit to drive, it surges like hell , you can have your foot on the accelator and keep it in one position and it will sit there stuttering, and then it stalled when i put the clutch in coming up to a corner, so pulled over to the side of the road and tried to start it up, tried abount 5 times and nothing, called my mate to come give me a tow, so tried it again and it decided to start up? Im completly stummped as to what the problem is, i just check one of the spark plugs anf they seem to look pretty normall'ish now, still looks like its running a bit too rich though. It sounds like a vaccum leak but i cant find i have checked all the hoses and clamps and cant seem to find any problems. Might just take it to nissan and get them to sort it out

Long story short, i have been returning my car back to stock so i can sell it. Dont ask why but i had to remove 1 of the injectors while it was still in the fuel rail, the fuel rail still had a bit of fuel in it, i took out the number 1 injector and fuel poured into cyl number 1, i didnt think that much had gotten in there so i though "she'll be right" (could be the biggest mistake ive made??), and left it sitting there for about a week. Went to start the car about 3days ago and it the motor wouldnt turn over at all, so took the spark plug out of cyl 1 and sure enough it had alot of fuel sitting in there, so got the air gun and blew it all out and poured in a little bit of oil, put spark back in and it wouldnt turn over again, so took all the spark plugs out and cranked it over, it turned over fine so i put everything back on and started it up and it started straight away. I have been trying to fix a fueling problem (car runs way way too rich and surges/stalls and fouls up the plugs big time) which im pretty sure was due too me installing the injectors by only putting a slight coating of crc 2.26 on the o-rings, hence pinching the o-ring and causing my fuel problems. So i removed the injectors and reinstalled them using vaseline, which felt 100 times better when pushing the injector in the rail, they just popped straight in. I got up this morning and had plans to take my car out and test if it was still having the same problems, but now i have new ones. The motor will not turn over at all with the spark plugs in it, i have the CAS and injectors disconnected and the car is hooked up to a car charger, the starte motor just sits there clicking trying to turn the motor, but as soon as i remove all the spark plugs and try to crank it over again it turns over perfectly, put the sparks back in and same problems again. It just will not turn over unless it has no compression (no spark plugs) , im totally pissed that i cant get this going as i need to get my car up for sale, have been trying to get my car running for about 1month now and all i am getting is problems! What is causing this? and how do i fix it, is it even fixable at all??? Any help would be very much appreciated Thanks Jason

Turbo kit now sold .

There is none, the 3037 is the biggest bolt on kit hks make for the rb25!

If you want to pick up a hardly used 3037 pro s turbo kit click on the link to my for sale thread in my signature for more details Make me an offer if your keen. Cheers

Another "vs" thread YAY!!

Bump.....

This kit will also come with installation instructions, and i will leave all the lines made up aswell (less headache for the next person who fits this kit, was a bit of a pain trying to follow just the pics in the instructions as all the text is in japanese) , i can also take pics of exactly how the lines are set up on my car now when i remove it , would make installation a bit easier. If you want this kit i suggest you let me know, i already have a few people in n.z interested and have had p.ms from a few sau members. Cheers

Hey mate Yea those photos were taking when i 1st got the kit when it was brand new, i dont have any photos of the kit now as it is still currently on my car. Cheers

Here are my power and boost graphs from when it was getting tuned, it gets full boost (17.8psi at 3700rpm, and makes 170rwkw at the same rpm that it hits full boost) , it has a tiny bit more lag than the stock turbo, as you can see from the boost graph. Cheers

Hmmm, i cant seem to edit my posts, i meant $3500nzd Cheers

Yes ,as above this is a complete bolt on turbo kit for an r33 or r34 rb25det, simply unbolt you standard turbo/lines/dump pipe/intake etc etc and bolt all of the hks components on, no you do not need to modify anything at all. An aftermarket ecu is not 100% essential to get this turbo running, you could drive around with it on the stock ecu (i would be getting the afr checked before going full throttle etc) but it wont go very well, you need to run an aftermarket ecu and get it tuned if you want to get the best on from this turbo (just like any other aftermarket turbo) , i suggest you do some research as to what you would need to reach your power goals with this turbo. Cheers

Comes with everything you see in these pics.

Internal wastegate, has hks adjustable actuator, has the 0.68 hks exhaust housing which can only be used with the hks split dump pipe that is made for this turbo/turbo kit, and yes like i said above it is a full bolt on kit, nothing needs to be modified at all, remove the stock turbo/lines and bolt this on. Cheers

Would want atleast $3500 for it, but like i said, im open to offers Cheers

Item:HKS GT3037 Pro S turbo kit Age:5months Condition:used for about 5xxxkms with a max of 17psi, and only street use (no track/drag use) so basicially brand new Price:not too sure yet, but will be selling it a bit cheaper than it cost me brand new as it is used (cost me just over $4000nzd new), at the moment i am looking to see who is interested ,so if you keen feel free to make me an offer To Fit: r33 gts25t's and r34 gtt's, only for rb25det engine, but could be used on an rb20det with a few mods possibly Location: New Zealand Contact:jasonpothoven@hotmail.com Comments: Just making this thread to see if anyone would be interested in this as im 99% set on returning my car to stock and selling it (upgrading to a gtr), comes with everything you need to bolt it straight on to your rb25det, turbo, actuator,lines,gaskets,fittings,braided lines, vaccum lines, stainless dump pipe, silicon joiners, compressor elbow etc etc, this is a full bolt on kit and nothing needs to be modified to make it fit. This made 270rwkw with 17psi on my completly stock rb25det using 95octane fuel, so has the potential to make over 300rwkw with 98 fuel and a little more boost. I can arrange shipping to australia at the buyers cost, ofcourse. Cheers Jason

I have a question When i was removing my standard injectors to install my nismo 555cc injectors (about 6months ago) i damaged one of the little plastic caps on the spraying end of the injector (not exactly sure what it is called), i must have hit it on something as the whole cap broke off. Im wondering will this affect the performance/functioning of the injectors, to me it looks like the plastic cap is designed to create a certin spray patern, correct? or will it be fine to put it back in the car without the cap? Reason is i want to return the car to completly stock and sell it, so any help would be great Heres a pic of the little plastic cap on the end of the injector that i am talking about, and yes i know this is a picture of a nismo 555cc Cheers