nizmo_freek

Can anyone answer my question? Cheers

The short end of the studs goes into the rear of the turbo, the exhaust housing should rotate easily once you have loosend the bolt off, same with the compressor housing.

Hi Guys Sorry to bring up an old thread, but i need a bit of help. I will be installing my nismo 555cc injectors and setting up my power fc for the injectors in the next couple of weeks (running a HKS 3037 Pro S and all the supporting mods) before i book it in for a tune, i have worked out the injector correction and injector latency correction numbers that i need to change in the PFC, can somone please comfirm for me that these are 100% correct? "INJECTOR CORRECTION" - Formula = stock 370cc divided by nismo 555cc = 0.66cc x 100 = 66%. So i would go into the power fc and change the INJ correction to 66%, correct? "INJECTOR LATENCY CORRECTION" From what i have found the latency for the nismo's is 0.71msec and stock is 0.52msec - Formula = nismo 0.71msec minus stock 0.52msec = 0.19msec So i would change the INJ Latency numbers for each injector to 0.19msec, correct? Hopefully this can help people in the future that are looking for the correction numbers . By the way, someone should sticky this thread!! Cheers

Yes they fit fine, im using my stock front pipe with my HKS Split dump pipe that came with my 3037 Pro S turbo kit (thy use the same dump) untill my hks front pipe arrives.

I may be able to answer that question for you in a couple of weeks, installed my 3037 a few weeks ago, just waiting for some parts to arrive then will be getting it tuned

Just finished scanning the instructions (thought i might aswell scan every page), they turned out pretty good, hopefully they are big enough to read, if you need them any bigger i can probly email them to you, or if you have msn messenger add me and i can send them to you that way (jasonpothoven@hotmail.com) Hopefully that helps

Hey mate Im just trying to scan my instrutctions for you, will hopefully be able to post them up soon, if they dont turn out great i wil try and get some decent pics of them.

No offence, but can you read/look at instructions? i just installed mine a couple of weeks ago and it was simple, i done it all just by using the pictures in the instructions, no need to be able to read japanese, just look at the pictures, each picture will have the number of each part that is pictured, go back and refer to the parts list (has a part number beside each part) and then go from there, it is honestly very very easy, the only problem i had was rotating the compressor and exhaust housings so that the compressor housing wasnt touching the manifold and the oil drain was facing down towards the sump, it takes a bit of testing to get right. Ill answer your questions anyway 1 = to get to the water feed remove the heater lines that run accross the top of the firewall next to the head, remove the coil pack cover, there is alsp 2 10mm bolts that hold the brackets for the stock line, you have to undo those ofcourse, then get a long nose pair of plies and undo the clip on the water line, the water line will then slide out. 2 = you dont need a gasket for the dump, everyone that i have read about hasnt used a gasket. 3 = not sure 4 = read the instuctions like i said above 5 = the black bracket is surpose to bolt to the afm and then bolt to the engine bay, it shows you in the pics, but mine didnt even fit which might have been because of the type of pod filter i am using, hks might of desgined it to be used with one of there "mushroom filters" 6 = yes that is a heat sheild, it is clamp on the little silicon joiners that connects the compressor outlet to the little cast turbo elbow which then connects to your intercooler piping, it is there to protect the silicon joiner from the heat of the ehxaust manifold as it sits very very close to it (mine is actually resting against the manifold). 7 = that is to join the left hand side cam covers breather pipe to the new pipe that is supplied in the kit which connects up to the smallest nipple on the intake pipe. 8 = that bolts to the turbo, the bracket with the slotted hole gets bolted up to one of the exhaust housing bolts that bolt that exhaust housing to the core of the turbo, the other bracket with just a hole in it slides over one of the dump pipe bolts on the back of the turbo, so fit the turbo and everything, and fit the dump pipe, then you will see were the heat sheild bolts up to, to be honest the bracket with the slotted hole is complete pain in the ass to get on, i would remove it and just use the bracket with the hole in it, and possbile make a different bracket for it, you will see once you get to fitting it how much of a pain it is!! Hope that helps, sorry i had to rush that a bit as i got to get back to work lol, but if you have anymore questions feel free to send me a p.m. Cheers Jason

Just curious as to why you think that?? Im talking mod for mod.

Finished putting the turbo on last night, runs perfect, no smoke at all very happy! Cheers for the help.

Yea i have the Power Fc set up already, have done the self learning idle and have set everything up for the boost control kit, i would rather not buy the datalogit and wideband just at the moment, all the tuning will be done by Andre Simons of Speedtech Motorsport (he is the tuner of the heat treatments r32 gtr that is driven by Reece) when i have the inj and afm, for now i think the stock ecu will be find if i drive it very quietly, i just need to fight the temptation to give it full throttle

I think i will just drive it around very quietly on the stock ecu for a few weeks untill i can get it tuned, hopefully the car will be running tomorow, just waiting for an exhaust mani gasket then can bolt it all back together. Also another question which is kind of urgent, how do i disconnect the stock boost control solenoid, if i just unplugg it will it afect anything else, im guessing it will be fine to just unplug it? or should i just keep it plugged in and earth it but dont have it hooked up to anything (will be having the wastegate connected straight to the intercooler pipe. Cheers for all the help!!

I have all the supporting mods apart from the injectors and afm, i have a pfc and pfc boost controll kit sitting in my closet (has been sitting there for over a year) lol, the thing is i really would like to get it tuned right now even with just the stock afm and inj just to make sure its safe, its $900 for a tune, i just dont want to have to go back again after i have fitted the new inj and afm and pay another $600+ for a retune, if my stock turbo hadnt died i would have waited and done everything at once, but thats life i guess, things happen.

Basically my stock turbo shat itself last week, blew an oil seal or something as the car was puffing out tons of smoke, removed inlet piping and found oil everywere, this happened the day after i receive my hks 3037 pro s turbo kit , so took everything off and am fitting the new turbo right now to see if it it does fix the problem. I still dont have aftermarket injectors or a z32 afm, and i dont want to waste $900 for a tune with the stock injectors and afm if im just going to have to go back for a retune in the near future with the new inj and afm. The question is am i able to run the 3037 with the stock ecu for now, i was under the impression that it would just hit the airflow cut very early in the rev range and run very rich overall, do you think it would be safe to use the stock ecu for say a couple of weeks/months untill i get a tune?

Took the car into nissan today for them to have a look, straight away they said probally the turbo, they told me to take it off and check if the oil drain was blocked at all, went home after work and got started on taking the intake piping off, straight away i noticed that the piping from the turbo to intercooler were covered in oil, took off the intake pipe and there was oil sitting on the bottom of the compressor inlet, i didnt really check that properly yesterday as i just removed the pod and had a look, so that pretty much confirms it in my mind the the turbo has shat a seal. Have just removed the turbo and have found another problem thanks to the previous owners not running antifreeze, one of my frost/welsh plugs in the block have started to rust pretty bad and now has a pin hole leak in it, looks like im going to have to replace those before bolting on my 3037 and getting it tuned.

The PCV valve has been removed, all the stock beather setup has been blocked up and i just have the 2 beather pipes venting into a catch can which vents via a beather filter

Just checked all the spark plugs, every spark plug is nice and clean, none of them are covered in oil, the tops of the pistons are all nice and clean from what i can see (there is a little bit of black soot ofcourse but not much)

Yup still making plenty of boost, there is no oil in the intake pipe and the compressor wheel and exhaust wheels are dry as a bone, turbo has hardly any shaft play either.

At the moment i am runing the stock turbo, but i have a HKS 3037 Pro S turbo kit ( theres is tons of pics in my car link) sitting in my room waiting to go on my car, looks like it will be sitting in my room for a little while longern now.

I would be happy about doing a rebuild , if i had the funds lol, but i just blew most of my money on the turbo kit , was going to go for around 280rwkw on stock internals, but i guess thats not going to happen now, seems like im cursed at the moment lol.

The thing that i find weird is if it is the rings, how did they let go? the car still runs perfect and has run perfect ever since ive owned it, gets regular 4000kms oil and filter changes, hardly gets thrashed, i never hit the rev limiter the car has only done 87xxxkms etc etc, i just dont see how all of a sudden a ring/ringland can let go, my mechanic was also very suprised about it, he said it is very weird.

Hey guys Big problem, drove to work today and all was fine, parked up and my car started puffing out tons of blue/white smoke, there was literally clouds of it pouring out my exhaust,the car has never smoked once since i have owned it and it is still running perfect, went to see my mechanic/engineer and see what he thought it could be, he said problally turbo, so went home and took off the exhaust dump and intake pipes, both sides are dry as, there is only a tiny bit of oil in the dump pipe, went back to my mechanic and showed him the dump pipe, he was a bit shocked to be honest, he thought it was very weird that it would all of a sudden start smoking, he suggested it could be ringlands or valve stem seals. I will be getting a compression and leakdown test done tommorow hopefully, hopefully this will atleast give me an idea of what is happening Any suggestions/thoughts on what it could be, i just blew most of my money on a hks 3037 turbo kit so am now stuck in a bit of a corner lol, any help would be great. Cheers

I Would be interested to know your guys thoughts on my setup (tein super drift with 7kg springs front and rear) using stock swaybars at the moment, im think of getting into a bit of track work in the near future (will possibly be using 235 or 245 semis all round, would probaly use street tyres on my 1st go though) , in my opinion my coilovers seem about perfect for the road, not to stiff at all (our NZ arent exactly the best!) What would you suggest to make an improvement? i guess i would really need to get out there 1st and see how the car really feels on the limit then work from there. By the way this is a great thread, very imformative!

Yes 9" +30 will fit perfect, just make sure you get the right width tyres depending on how low your car is, 225 or 235 would be perfect.

That will most likely be how the catch can vents, instead of having a filter on the top like most of them, it would also act as and overflow incase your catch can ever fills right up, instead of the oil spraying all over your engine bay it would spray out the pipe and underneath the car.