Kwyjibo

Yeah I'm definitely sad to see it go

Car is sold, thanks for the interest.

Car is sold

As cars get older their decline in value reduces and reaches a break even point, R32s have pretty much hit this being over 20 years old now, even R33s will be hitting this point soon. The fact is R33's can be over 15 years old now so it is at the point where a well looked after R32 is just as likely to be reliable as an R33. R32s tend to be more 'enthusiast' oriented as well, and from what I can see are usually less showy and more to the point, probably a lot more suited to the track/weekend car market than a R33/R34 is. In a lot of peoples eyes they are a lot more desirable. I'm biased because I have an R32 for sale for $8000, but it is quite well modified, and I would assume much more reliable than any $4000 R33, and a much better basis for a track car. I've rationalised this by looking at the market and then adding about a 1/3 of the cost of all the modifications I have done(since they have all been done recently). I currently have someone waiting on money to buy mine because they want a good street/track car, I've had other people come check it out and not be interested because of usual old car problems such a few scratches and paint chips and expectations that you would have for a normal car that just aren't realistic and should probably just go buy an R33/34 if they are worried about that stuff.

Thanks, there are some big power RB20's out there but generally they aren't too responsive. Dropping price to $8000 for now.

Price dropped to $8000. Hoping to sell before rego runs out at the end of March. Cheers, Adrian

I'm selling my R32 gts-t, 1989 'Type M' - 192000kms Mods include: -HKS2530 turbo - Checked by Hypergear and with a new compressor wheel 5000kms ago. -Z32 AFM -RB20 PowerFC with controller -Bosch 040 fuel pump -GTR injectors with ballast -Cooling Pro FMIC -Yellow jacket coil packs -Adjustable cam gears -HKS split dump pipe, through to X-Force hi-flow cat and exhaust -Adjustable Bilstein struts with Whiteline springs as sold by SydneyKid -Front and rear whiteline strut braces The engine mods were done about 2 years ago, built to be a track car but once I finished it I didn't have the money or time. It's only been driven approx 5000kms over these 2 years. At the time of the mods I also put in a new Exedy HD clutch. The tyres are near new with Federal 595's on the rear and Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin's on the front. The car was tuned by Ed at Autotech and was dynoed at around 215rwkw at about 17-18 psi. It is a really responsive turbo. The gearbox is a little noisy and there are a few chips and mark as expected of a car this age, The rear right of the body kit is starting to come away slightly. Interior is pretty good except the steering wheel and a small tear in the passenger door vinyl. Has a sunroof. Looking for around $9000 at the moment but happy to negotiate. Call or text me on 0430-508-321 if you are interested. Cheers, Adrian

I'm selling my R32 gts-t, 1989 'Type M' - 192000kms Mods include: -HKS2530 turbo - Checked by Hypergear and with a new compressor wheel 5000kms ago. -Z32 AFM -RB20 PowerFC with controller -Bosch 040 fuel pump -GTR injectors with ballast -Cooling Pro FMIC -Yellow jacket coil packs -Adjustable cam gears -HKS split dump pipe, through to X-Force hi-flow cat and exhaust -Bilstein struts with Whiteline springs as sold by SydneyKid -Front and rear whiteline strut braces The engine mods were done about 2 years ago, built to be a track car but once I finished it I didn't have the money or time. It's only been driven approx 5000kms over these 2 years. At the time of the mods I also put in a new Exedy HD clutch. The tyres are near new with Federal 595's on the rear and Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin's on the front. The car was tuned by Ed at Autotech and was dynoed at around 215rwkw at about 17-18 psi. It is a really responsive turbo. The gearbox is a little noisy and there are a few chips and mark as expected of a car this age, The rear right of the body kit is starting to come away slightly. Interior is pretty good except the steering wheel and a small tear in the passenger door vinyl. Has a sunroof. Looking for around $9000 at the moment but happy to negotiate. Call or text me on 0430-508-321 if you are interested. Cheers, Adrian

I just need the lower half of the r32 fan shroud if someone has one. Please PM me. Cheers, Adrian

It depends what kit you got for it. I got mine second hand from an RB20 and even it didn't fit for some reason. Best bet is to get some lines made up, just take the originals into Pirtek or hose shop with the turbo and ask them to make some up for you. If you can keep the bolts that will be good though as they have a reducer in them.

I have a R32 gts-t that is running a Power FC, was tuned almost 2 years ago and haven't had any major problems since. About a month ago I removed the throttle body to fix a coolant leak and ever since then I am getting a lot of idle hunting and sometimes when coming to a stop the car will stall. This isn't consistent however, it is mostly ok when cold, but even when hot sometimes it isn't issue. I have cleaned the AAC valve and have played with the TPS(as this is the only thing I can think of that would have been changed when I removed the TB) which currently sits at 0.4v on idle and doesn't move around. Any suggestions for settings on the PowerFC I can play with to settle this?

Bump

No probs. If your over Northside just give me a ring and I'll get them from you.

Hi all, Just selling some wheels, the advertisement for them is below. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/353900-16-wheels-x4-2-with-tyres-act/ Contact me on 0430 508 321 or PM if you are interested. Cheers, Adrian

I have 4, 16" wheels from an older Nissan, used as drift wheels but no longer needed. Two of them have tyres that are good apart from some camber wear but defintely not legal. Looking for $150 Pics attached. PM me or contact me on 0430 508 321 Cheers, Adrian

Was going to make this my return to some events but there is no way I'll be up early enough the next day after Foreshore!

How'd ya go? Fried drivers or dud injectors?

I have a set of RB20DET injectors you could borrow, message me on 0430 508 321. Cheers, Adrian

Look at the RB20 dyno thread. From there work out a power goal that is reasonable for your budget. If you have $4000 and want response but reasonable power go an HKS2530. As an example I aimed for approx 220rwkw and bought the following. I fell short at 215rwkw but I have a very old engine. In that case your looking at: $1000-$1400ish for turbo/lines/HKS actuator $300 for GTR injectors + clean and flow test $240 for a Bosch 040 fuel pump $500 for Just Jap FMIC $60 for resistor pack $40 for Turbotech boost controller $250 for Z32 AFM $1200 for Power FC $800 for tune(depending where you live) If you just want something cheap but less than 200kw you can pretty much get away with buying an RB25 turbo and chucking it straight on with a boost controller.

Surely one of the best ways of comparing engine designs is by comparing the inputs vs the outputs. I.e the most efficient engine should be the one generating the most power with the least fuel and air being put into it.

Ask a group of people to touch a point on the wall as high as they can, after this tell them to reach even higher. 95% of people will be able to touch a point higher than they first did, this is the 'magical' power that this 'Power Balance' bracelet has. Have a look around and you will see numerous tests using bands that look similar but don't have the magnet or hologram or whatever it is that is supposed to help you. Even those fake brands have the exact same effect and people are suddenly feel they are stronger, more balanced and feel however they are told the bracelet is mean't to affect them. It's a placebo and a scam.

+1 on the cold start valve, I had the exact problem, sitting at about the exact same revs as you.it pretty much sits in between the plenum/intake manifold and low on the head, on the firewall side of the throttle body(if you are running standard plenum). I think its bolted to the intake manifold by 2 bolts. It t has 2 hoses running too it and a plug connects to the top of it. The way it is designed is a tiny spring inside it is supposed to hold it shut(or open, I forgot). When voltage is applied the solenoid should open or close it. All you will need to do is open it up, be very careful to not lose any parts, reconnect the spring, then put it back together making sure it has sealed perfectly. Hopefully that is the issue but based on what the tuner said it could even be a tune issue(however I doubt it would rev that high with just the AAC valve letting air in).

I bought a few resistors and tried wiring each one in until it was set to about 20 degrees. Forgot what resistance I needed though sorry.

Have a look at Redbook and other similar cars. It also depends how quickly you need to sell, my understanding is in Canberra you can sell for a bit more, but because of the small market sometimes you need to wait until someone is actually looking for that type of car. On another note would you separate the 16's and how much for.

Hey mate, I got a few lying around. Cheers, Adrian