Kwyjibo

Spotted 3 Skylines in the space of about 5 minutes. A red R32 pulling in behind me along William Webb, then a Black R33 along William Slim, and a White 32 GTR on the roundabout along Barton Highway.

Hmm 90-100c sounds quite high. Mine is normally between 75-80 degrees and will hit about 85 degrees when absolutely hammering it, even when getting tuned in a very hot workshop(45deg+) its peak was 90 degrees and that was for a very short period of time. I was getting 100 degrees if I switched my car off for a few minutes and then on again on hot days when I'd lost about 1 litre of coolant that was replaced with air. Once I bled the system it was down low again.

So does putting the clutch in fix the problem or does it take a few seconds to start revving before that? I'm guessing its either a dodgy fuel pump, CAS, or ignitor but unfortunately you can't really test any of these unless you can replicate the problem with the car sitting still. It could even be something as simple as the throttle position sensor but unlikely.

Need more info. When you say stopping is it actually stalling? When you say a second later it takes off again do you mean you've restarted the car? Is it exactly a second or a few minutes? Does the car feel like its driving right when it does take off again? Does this happen all the time or if you start the engine cold does it run for awhile before this starts? I'm gonna guess its either fuel system or ignition. It'll also likely be something that affects all cylinders and not just one(i.e CAS, ignitor module, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator).

I have an HKS2530kai on an RB20. 210kw, wanted to run 18psi but it will only spike and peak power is at 16psi. Starts getting fun around 3800rpm but not much before that. Keep in mind my engine is pretty crappy though and timing is very retarded compared to most modified cars as it knocks too easily. I absolutely love the turbo, any bigger would be way too laggy for street use.

That is the best way I've heard someone describe it and should assist people in understanding.

Just had a look on FAST and they are the same part number, also if you look online most people sell just a single valve spring.

If your buying a whole lot of parts it might be worth contacint 'Kudos Motorsport'who are a seller on this forum and can get most genuine parts. I've found they are cheaper than Nissan by a small margin but usually delivery tips them over. With a few items it might be worthwhile.

I have a RB20 Ignitor for sale for $50 + postage. I also have 6 standard coil packs for sale, $10 each or make an offer. On standard boost/standard turbo they were fine but I'm now running 18 psi on an HKS 2530 and one seems to be breaking down at high RPM at about 15psi. I bought it awhile ago but Aus Post stuffed up and its arrived a month and a half too late! Contact me on 0430 508 321 or by PM. Cheers, Adrian

I got smoke for about 20 minutes when I installed a new turbo, and again when I removed it and put it back on. For me it was just residue burning off. Not saying that is defintely it in your carse but if its coming from the dump pipe/turbo it should be a closed system so it shouldn't be coming from within.

I did this a while ago and my memory is a bit sketchy. Basically it sits under the plenum just on the firewall side of the throttle body. I think you need to remove the throttle cable assembly. If I remember right there is a plug at the top, and the connection from intake to plenum connects either side. To get it out there are two bolts, should be able to get at them with a long socket extension, the hoses are a pain in the ass due to reach. Once you get it out there are 4 screws to undo, careful when you open it up because there is a very small spring inside. To fix the IAC you need to make sure that the spring holds the valve shut by default, only when voltage is applied should the valve be open. I don't have any pics and its hard to describe but if you play with it a bit you will see what I mean.

If you've got an ignition lead just plug it in between the spark plug and shove the other end in the coil, and use a timing light on it, if its flashing you have spark. Could also unplug the fuel pump, start the car until it stalls, then take out the spark plug and ground it against something while turning the car over. You should be able to see a spark. Otherwise its likely to be a fuel issue.

Yep I agree it is quite easy and saves a lot of money. Only took me a couple of hours.

They are low impedence injectors so you will have to buy a GTR resistor ballast or make your own with some resistors from Jaycar, forgot the voltage and ohmage sorry. Basically you cut the power feed to each injector, connect each one to a resistor(or wire on the resistor ballast), then connect the power feed to all of them. Also the plugs aren't a direct fit, the RB20 ones have a locating tab, I just filed these down and it works fine, other people stress out and buy the correct injector plug which you can get from Repco.

I just filed the tab off, no need to have it as the plugs are clipped in from the top anyway.

The injector resistor is only for low impedence RB26 injectors so if you are running standards you won't need it. Not sure about the loom, engines are quite similar so I don't see why not. No idea about using the 20de ecu, probably worth just buying an RB20DET ecu as you can get them very cheap.

Hey mate how much would you post the ignitor to 2612 express post for? Cheers, Adrian

Sorry in my post I meant timing marks on the belt. After a second revolution it should match up with the marks on the block and head.

I think you may be getting confused, this is physically impossible unless the belt is slipping or you have different sized cam gear/crank pulley. The timing belt isn't at a 1:1 ratio as the crank pulley so the timing marks will barely ever line up once you have turned it.

Personally I've only had good experiences in the ACT. I never feel 'targetted' and even though my car probably looks like its quite modified I've never been questioned. I've been fined once for doing something stupid but they were even really nice about that.

Yeah I'm pretty happy, unfortunately I was dumb enough to try the CAS as a solution first. I've got timing set to standard but clearly my tuner didn't because the car is very sluggish now! Even using the temp adjustment on the Power FC doesn't help much.

Hey all, I'm looking for a working RB20 ignitor module, does anyone have one available? Please PM me or contact on 0430 508 321. Cheers, Adrian

In case anyones interested, the problem was with the CAS.

Tested that today and it runs when AFM is unplugged if I give it a bit of throttle, then once the car died again I tried the same thing and it wouldn't fire up at all. AFM also shows a 0.5-1v reading if hold open the throttle and crank when the car is dead. I'm trying a different CAS and ignitor tomorrow but if that fails then I'm checking my injector wiring which is the only other wiring I've modified.

Yep its defintely not AFM as I still get an AFM reading and I've been able to run the car with a dead AFM just by holding revs, at the moment holding open the throttle does absolutely nothing. Also there is defintely no spark when the car is dead so I am 99% sure the CAS or the igniter is the issue now. I'm thinking CAS since timing is clearly way out when it is running.