Kwyjibo

I would tend to agree about fuel pump however the pump is only 6 months old. Also I've now found its not only a heat issue. It even happens when cold sometimes.

I'm running a Power FC so I don't get error codes:/ TPS voltages are fine ranging from 0.4 to about 4.7v. I'll test the CAS tomorrow and see how I go. Can anyone confirm about being able to ground the spark plug on the head? I'm not keen on stuffing around with the CAS and igniter only to find it is the injector wiring that is stuffed. For further information I'm running GTR injectors with a resistor pack, I did the wiring myself so it is a possibility that over time my shoddy workmanship has come apart:p

I have an R32 gts-t running a slightly modifed rb20. Had an interesting issue today, was driving along when all of a sudden car will not rev and eventually stalls, couldn't get the car started. Checked for air and fuel, no blockages and fuel is coming back out the return so only possible issue is injectors or spark. I come back to the car 2 hours later and it starts, I drive it the 2 minutes back and after running it another minute or so it cuts out again. At first I think its heat related(ignitor pack) so I leave it for about 4 hours till everything cools down and start it up, after a few minutes it dies again, but starts running again after a few minutes. I took it for a drive and it feels ok until about 3000rpm where it defintely feels sluggish and struggles to build boost. As I turn into my street it dies again. I checked spark and it has none. 2 Questions: I checked spark by having the spark plug against the head, does anyone know if this is a good enough ground to check it? Do people think this is a CAS problem, I've got a feeling it is since it was running as if timing was severely retarded. Any help would be great!

Yeah when I did a turbo swap mine did that the next few times I drove and you could smell it for a few days.

Yeah I can't complain, its quite good to drive. The FMIC has been fine for my purposes, was easy to install as well. We had some knocking issues that we thought were due to heatsoak but have now eliminated that as a problem. I think injector duty hits around 70% at full load/high revs. I should also note I have an HKS dump pipe and Power FC.

I know you weren't talking to me but this might help. Unopened RB20DET HKS2530 GTR Injectors Bosch 040 fuel pump Z32 AFM Cooling Pro Intercooler 210rwkw on 16psi, not run on shootout mode so not sure how it compares to other dynos. Full boost around 3800-4000rpm depending on when foot goes flat to the floor.

That is exactly what I have:) Perfect turbo for an RB20.

I also have an RB20 running a HKS2530, 210kw @16psi on a very tired engine. Just make sure you upgrade your fuel system and intercooler and you should get similar results.

From what I've read the HKS 2540 is ok but not well matched to an RB20/25. the HKS2530 is good for about 230kw at 18-19psi, the 2540 about 240kw but apparently its much less responsive. What turbo you decide on should depend on what you use the car for.

Don't think there is such a thing as a Garrett 2530, if there is it would be extremly small, smaller than a standard RB20 turbo. HKS 2530's are just a Garrett 2860 chra with HKS housings(apparently flow slightly better). The 1st series still have all the usual Garrett stamps from what I have heard rather than HKS but the 2nd series has HKS labelling. Great turbo for an RB20/25 if you aren't chasing big power by the way. I have one on an RB20 and its almost as responsive as standard with 210rwkw.

Just mark where the CAS is and you should be fine, at most a degree or two out if done properly and a stretched belt will make that much difference. I don't think you'll be able to tell the difference between a belt with 1000kms and one with 150,000 km's as they all pretty much look the same. If you worried about it just change it, its a good experience to get acquainted with your car if your willing to give it a go. Just do some research before hand as the crank pulley bolt is a pain to get off without proper tools.

Unless your SES or have some sort of training that is perfectly fine if people have already stopped.

Sold pending payment.

That's true it becomes a mess if too many people stop. I was just dissapointed that we managed to pull way out of our way to help because the 15 other people who drove straight past them didn't feel it was necessary to stop.

Saw an accident at the Gundaroo Drv/Barton Highway roundabout today. A P plater was hit by a truck who didn't give way and he spun off the road, if there was a passenger they would have been hurt for sure. The worst thing was there was at least 20 cars around the roundabout, some driving right behind him that just drove off. We had to drive over a traffic island and concrete divider then run across the road as only one other car stopped to help and be a witness. The truck driver wasn't going to admit fault either. Anyone else noticed this happen? A simple witness statement can save an innocent person thousands of dollars who would otherwise be burned(its happened to me), not even thinking about the fact that if there was a passenger they could have been killed and people who saw it happen drove past as if nothing happened!

Bump

Hi All, I have a standard r32 gtst airbox and snorkel for sale. I bought this to try to make my car as standard as possible but forgot that my piping had changed so it doesn't fit. Comes with an old filter, I probably wouldn't use it personally. I'm looking for about $80 + delivery but make me an offer. I also have a second snorkel for sale if anyone wants. Please PM me or message on 0430.50.8321 Cheers, Adrian

It all depends on the car. I have an RB20 and the exhaust cam did nothing but lose power, the intake cam gave me about 10-15kw more through mid range and lost about 5kw top end.

Hi all, I'm looking for a R32 gts-t airbox/snorkel. Please PM me if you have one available. Cheers, Adrian

I'll be travelling to Sydney a lot over the next month and a half so if anyone from Syd wants these let me know.

I'd say these are the 8"s then if thats the case. All I know is they fit on the rear without spacers, not sure how they would go on the front though. I'd be happy to sell them back to you Cejay just send me a message. Cheers, Adrian

You shouldn't have to use the spring compressors until the whole shock/strut assembly is out. Also with coilovers you should never need them at all. What you will need them for is putting springs back onto your original struts. Cheers, Adrian

Yeah unfortunately they aren't stored at my place:/ Next time I'm at my parents place I will check the size, fairly sure they are 8.5"s though.

Sorry to put this in here but not many ACT people seem look at the F/S section. I'm selling two wheels, not sure what they are but look like Advan AVS VS-5?. Condition isn't great with a few scratches and what appears to be paint peeling in the centre on one of them. I used these as wheels for drift but now I'm trying to save some money. I bought these off Cejay originally so he might be able to shed some light on them. They are 17", I think either 8" or 8.5" wide. One has a Yokohama Ecos and the other some sort of Falken, don't think either would be legal but would have enough meat for a fair few laps out on a drift day, they are 235/45/17's. Lookin for $150ish for these, or make an offer. Please PM me or contact me on 0430 508 321. Cheers, Adrian

Any takers?