Kwyjibo

No matter how much timing I pull out I always get knock up to about 35. I've had people listen to it on the dyno and we weren't able to hear any pinging when it would get up to this level. On full throttle it usually only gets to 25. The time it jumps up to 30 or above is when I back off the throttle. It has done this for quite awhile and I still haven't melted any pistons.

Bump!

Yep they do actually look like it, may be copies though for all I know, I bought them for $200 last year in the same condition they are now and the owner had no idea. Yeah sorry Boz_soljah not sure how much it would cost but if your still keen let me know.

I'm selling two wheels, not sure what they are. Condition isn't great with a few scratches and what appears to be paint peeling in the centre on one of them. I used these as wheels for drift but now I'm trying to save some money. They are 17", I think either 8" or 8.5" wide. One has a Yokohama Ecos and the other some sort of Falken, don't think either would be legal but would have enough meat for a fair few laps out on a drift day, they are 235/45/17's. Lookin for $150ish for these, or make an offer. I'm located in Canberra, please PM me or contact me on 0430 508 321. Cheers, Adrian

Good point. Am I correcting in saying that if you increase the amount of air you can compress that you could fill a larger volume at the same PSI with a larger turbo where a smaller one may struggle?

I don't think thats quite right. 'Boost' or the PSI is a measure of the pressure in the manifold piping created by the air. The measurement is Pounds per Square Inch so at normal atmospheric pressure its applying no force, but as you compress/pressurise the air it starts pushing on the inside of the manifold and piping. Basically the reason for this is that you now have forced a higher volume of air into the space than the atmospheric pressure at whatever altitude you are at. By increasing the air pressure(therefore overall density of air) you can force more air into the engine, without having to make larger pipes or increase port size. So by putting in a larger turbo you are able to compress more air, it might only go to the same 'PSI' but its actually filling up a larger volume with the same compression. An easier example to understand might be a water pump, a small water pump might be able to move around or 'pressurise' a volume of say 10. If you put that into a system with 20L you would need a bigger pump to pressurise the system to the same level. So the overall PSI might be the same but you are actually moving a much larger volume of water. I'm by no means an expert, this is just what I've gathered so if anyone thinks I'm wrong please let me know.

I have the same turbo on an RB20 but with GTR injectors and its great. 210kw at 16psi and only about 65-70% injector duty. My timing had to be held back massively as well, only running 8 degrees on the 'full load' area points on the map as above that it knocks(carbon hot spots or something, its an 185,000k engine). Still feels good, felt very fast when running proper timing as well. Out of interest are you able to look at your ignition map and let me know what kind of timing your running on the high load, high RPM points? Cheers, Adrian

Cool, well as long as the occasional peak up to 104c isn't damaging the engine I'm not fussed then.

That's what I thought at first but if I flick the car off then switch it back to 'on' without running it, it only rises to 88c max, it's only once I start the car for the first minute it happens.

I didn't think of the thermostat, may be opening slowly, I'll give it a go.

Hey guys, Just looking for ideas on what could be causing my issue. I recently installed new turbo(HKS2530), injectors, AFM, fuel pump, PowerFC and FMIC then got it tuned. Car is running great with no issues except for on hot starts. Basically if I turn the car off in really hot weather, return to it in 5 minutes then drive it, in the first minute or so it has got as high as 104c, then eventually drops back to low 80's and even high 70's. I would generally blame my FMIC however it happens regardless of whether I stay still or start driving straight away at 80 km/h+. I should also note that I understand the FMIC is blocking air flow, however the car has never really hit over 86c even stopped in heavy traffic on a 37c day. All fans are working and I am 99% sure I bled the coolant system properly(done as I always do it). Do you guys think I might have crap coolant or do you think the radiator is getting too hot when the car is sitting there with no water flow and this water is mixing with water in the temp sensor and heating it up very quick? Only other issue I can think of is that the HKS2530 that peaks briefly at 18psi runs much hotter than my old turbo and maybe increasing water temp? If its not this then only solution I can think of is bigger/better radiator. Cheers, Adrian

I reckon standard 595's will be fine for you. That's what I have with 210rwkw on an RB20(so a very quick late jump in power) and I don't have any traction problems. Not sure if you will get 20,000 k's out of them though.

Just FYI I think you should be able to get somewhere from 2000-2500 for them depending on age/condition. I recently bought a single one for an RB20/25 for $1600 but it was very new and in pretty much new condition. If I ever had an RB26 they would be the first turbo I go for, awesome response and peak power.

Hey yeah I actually got the car tuned at Autotech. I already took it back and he fixed up a few things but I don't really have time to do that again. Ed did a great job though considering the problems I have had with this engine. I do have the hand controller but it can only monitor the max knock overall, not the max knock at each point like the datalogit can. Fuel map is good, never runs too lean, its just one point where there is slightly too much ignition timing but I can't find that exact point and I don't really wanna drop the whole map a few degrees just for that.

Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone around here has a Datalogit? I have a car running a Power FC and I am very occasionally getting a small spike of knock. It is very hard to track down as it only seems to happen when not on full load and around 4500rpm and even then I can't recreate it(only happens once every few days). I just need the Datalogit for a day so I can drive around for awhile and log the max knock at each point to work out which map point this knock is happening on. Cheers, Adrian

Anyone have a Datalogit I can borrow for a day or two to do some testing with my car?

Just pull one of the studs out and take it to Repco. Even longer ones shouldn't be too much of an issue, they have worked for me on the same turbo.

Hey guys, Wastegate is sold pending payment.

Hey I sent you a message regarding this. As far as I am aware its a straight fit. Fitting it is as easy as removing the intake pipe coming out of the turbo outlet. Undoing two bolts and a circlip too remove the wastegate then fit the other one. If you want it to run 11-12psi all the time you'll need to disconnect the boost solenoid and run the boost control line straight to the wastegate instead of the solenoid.

Bump, $35 anyone?

Got it tuned to today at 18psi with yellow jacket coilpacks. Would only spike to 18psi and trail off to about 16psi. Got 210rwkw, had a really bad batch of fuel though. Had to knock heaps of timing off compared to last tune and even then its pinging, siphoning the tank tonight and getting some better stuff. Just so everyone knows only buy Synergy 8000 from Mobil, don't buy the '98' that some of them are selling as it seems to be completely different.

The reason you don't go to 18psi on an rb25 turbo is because they are ceramic wheeled. Once it is spinning at the speeds required for about 14psi the wheel will break after some time(could happen straight away, could last awhile) and possibly damage your engine.

Hey guys, I've searched and couldn't find anything on this topic except a lot of chat about oil catch cans. Just finished modifying my car and its running great but one thing I've noticed is the cam breather hose between the rocker covers is split. I don't have a great understanding of how the PCV valve works so can someone tell me if this will cause a vacuum or boost leak? My understanding is once positive pressure is reach the valve closes. I also think its pretty unlikely it would cause a boost leak as the hoses eventually run through to the intake. Also is the PCV valve located just on the plenum where the hose runs straight to the closest cover? Cheers, Adrian

Hi Guys, I have a RB20 Wastegate Actuator for sale, I have upgraded my turbo which came with an HKS actuator so no longer need the standard. When it was on my car was running up to about 12 psi with no controller. I'm located in Canberra. I'll start at $40 but I'm open to offers. PM me or message me on 0430 508 321 if you are interested Cheers, Adrian

No probs, I've sent you an e-mail with the details. Cheers, Adrian