Kwyjibo

For an RB20 you should have both an intake and exhaust cam gear. If cam gear isn't sold I would like to grab it, sent a PM.

Might as well post up about the 32 now its finally being modified. 1989 R32 gts-t Bought it pretty much standard except boost controller and 3" turbo back exhaust. Current setup Suspension/Running gear SK's adjustable Bilstein shock, Whiteline springs combo Soon to have adjustable control arms Soon to have Kaaz 2 way diff Engine Standard RB20, runs reasonably well HKS2530 KAI turbo Just Jap FMIC Split dump with 3" back exhaust - Following mods yet to be fitted CAI setup GTR injectors Z32 AFM Adjustable cam gears Power FC with 240rwkw tune for same setup Everything else is standard except running some wheels from an R34 or StageA or something. If anyone has cheap 16"or 17"wheels for sale let me know, need some more track wheels.

If its a street driven car then standard diff will usually be fine. With any kind of track/drift work it will not be though. I have almost ruined a recoed diff with standard engine in about 3 drift days. It already single spins occasionally.

I'm hoping the car will be able to meet emissions when I'm finished it so would like the Xforce. I don't have the money to spare at the moment anyway so let me know if you sell the rest of the system without the cat.

How much would you like for it? A bit strapped for cash now but may be interested at tax time if I find my current one is holding the car back.

Can you PM me regarding the cat if you are going to sell it.

I have a HKS2530, originally I made my own crappy gasket and the surfaces weren't great so it was leaking a bit of oil from the oil return. I finally have the turbo back from getting fixed and have noticed that the oil return pipe has a a slight recess around the oil hole where it connects to the turbo. I am thinking about putting a rubber o-ring in here as I think that what it is for. Is there any reason this may be a bad idea or will this not help at all?

Thanks a lot for this! Got great service from Hypergear.

No power difference unless you were to upgrade. You only need a big enough fuel system to keep mixtures at a certain Air/Fuel ratio. the GTR injectors are easily enough for what you need. I have heard of some people having problems idling with larger injectors, you can imagine that the bigger you go, you lose 'resolution' IE 1% of 440cc is 4.4cc, 1% of 900cc is 9cc so I think this is the reasoning behind it.

Yeah I think they may have stopped selling them new. Might be a bit out of your price range but if you want the response I think Hypergear also do a ball bearing highflow, bigger than the HKS2530 for more power and only a little less responsive. I ended up buying the Justjap type camgears. I have heard bad things about the HKS ones as they are only held by 3 bolts but I think some of the other brands such as OSGiken are pretty good. Realistically they won't make any difference and I would imagine even the worst would have lives longer than most current RB20DET's will live unless you have had a rebuild recently. Some people do say to replace the bolts on the Just Jap ones as that is the first thing that will let go.

Should get 230rwkw easy. You might start to come onto boost a bit after then but not really sure when you will get full boost. Still should feel good to drive and its at a good price.

IAC shouldn't have anything to do with that. Its open when car is cold and closes when hot, if its broken it will just stay open at all times.

Won't get over 250rwkw with a HKS2530, maybe 240 absolutely max if you get a newer one. You need to ask yourself whether you really need that power though. From my experience a 230kw car that pulls from 3000rpm is much more fun than a car with 250kw that doesn't start pulling till after 4000rpm and only gets 250 right at peak. If you can change the timing belt you can change the cam gears, basically same process except you remove the gears.

Really easy to install if you get a T3 flanged one. Just need to find a matching split dump pipe(one that doesn't have a bit sticking out between wastegate/exhaust). Most that are being sold come with lines, if not you will need new coolant/oil lines/oil feed. Each of the feeds are slightly smaller than on the standard turbo. For intake all I did was buy a silicon 90degree angle and put it on as an elbow and then extended the standard pipe slightly. The AFM piping connects straight up with no modification.

Sorry BB means ball bearing and FPR means fuel pressure regulator. Ball bearing turbos spin more easily so spool up earlier. Standard RB20 turbo is ball bearing however I understand RB25 turbos are not, at least the high flows that get put in them for cheap usually aren't. Fuel pressure regulators are used when you want to get more fuel flow through smaller injectors, its not really an ideal solution though, GTR injectors can be had for cheap anyway. If you are planning on running 10PSI+ boost through these bigger turbos I would recommend a FMIC however you might not see that much of a power difference through it. Again this will affect response even more hence why I would recommened a BB turbo of some type. Defintely get a tune with these modifications. If you want above 220rwkw you will need a Z32 AFM which will require a retune anyway. I would recommend looking through some threads on here because there is a lot of opinion rather than fact(not saying mine is fact). Just asking in one thread is not going to get you an ideal solution. While I have been saving for each parts I have been looking over a lot of threads in this section and it has been a great help on deciding each of my parts. What I am doing is as follows. Unopened RB20 engine(will upgrade to RB25 when it dies) HKS2530 turbo, will now have a slightly bigger wheel due to mine being chipped Split dump, 3" back exhaust(was already on car) Z32 AFM(almost always needed for 210kw+) GTR injectors/ballast resistor Bosch 040 fuel pump Adjustable cam gears CoolingPro FMIC kit Usual CAI/heatshielded Apexi pod setup PowerFC No Splitfire coilpacks as yet, car was running 15psi without misfire, going to run 18psi with the new turbo so will see if it is required. All up would have been under $4200 for me if I didn't buy a dodge Z32 AFM or chipped the turbo wheel. The computer I'm buying has a tune for my exact mods, so will hopefully be able to get a cheap retune just to make sure everything is safe. cheap usually aren't.

Probably worth looking at the dyno thread and thinking about this a bit. If its a street car you probably don't want to just get overall peak power as RB20's are very average down low. I just put in an HKS2530 and it made less difference in response than my FMIC did(before something got in and chipped the comp wheel ) and I should be able to reach 220kw, the person who I am buying a powerFC from made 240 with one. This all without even getting a tune. As its a BB turbo you will notice a lot better response than with a RB25 high flow(unless you pick up a BB high flow which will cost more anyway), and you can pick up a second hand one in good condition for around $1500 these days. Don't worry about 900cc injectors especially if you are on a budget, get some GTR injectors, Z32 AFM and fuel pump, no need for FPR then either. When I was first looking into modifying the car I was hoping for 250-270rwkw using a 3017r or something like that but then after looking around a lot you can see a massive difference in mid range using a smaller turbo which will probably end up making your car faster anyway(it will at least feel faster). If you want a driveable 250rwkw you'd have to start looking into chucking an RB25 engine in.

Thanks thats a good idea, just don't want it to affect response too negatively. Its on an RB20 and was really only aiming for 220kW. Already felt slightly laggy with the standard 2530 on my quick test drive(untuned though) and don't want it much worse.

Thats the plan, going to get it checked in Canberra, if it needs anything more than a balancing will send it to Hypergear. Found out the 2860r wheel is .5mm smaller at inducer and .1mm smaller at exd so hopefully thats a close enough match if I decide to get a new turbine(will discuss with Hypergear)

I've sent you a PM regarding this for a quote. I am in Canberra though so would have to send the turbo to you(although I will be in Melb for a few days late June). Any idea what is accetable shaft play for these turbos. There is still absolutely zero left to right. I can get extremly slight movement pushing back but only less than a mm and I have to push very hard(which is why I didn't notice any in the first place). I've had a bit of a better look and the chipping looks pretty much the same from outside to inside of the fins, except one fin has a reasonabe chunk out of it on the outside. Still thinking I got dirt or something in the system though as my old turbo is pretty bad and the fins were perfect about 5km ago(when I first put it in my car) it was in a car previous to this as well so if there were issues I would have thought it would have happened before..

Sorry one more question regarding this? If I was to get it fixed can just the front wheel itself be replaced? It seems to just be held on to the cartridge by a nut from what I can see and I imagine that will be a lot cheaper than replacing the whole cartridge.

Hi, I have just put on a HKS 2530 on my car. The standard turbos front wheel was chipped really badly. The new turbo was in great condition, I have run it for only about 5km and for about 20 minutes on idle and now there are small chips on the turbo fins, and one fairly large one on the outside of one fin. I'm assuming my filter is dodgy but can anyone think of what else could cause this? Turbo had absolutely no shaft play and boosted fine when I drove it. Anyone know what the next step is? I understand that there is going to be an enormous imbalance in the wheel now so I assume its going to have to be fixed. Can the front fins be replaced with a replacement unit somehow or can it just be rebalanced?

Thanks. I think I'm going to buy it then because if prices stay stable I can always sell it for more than I payed. One more question, I was playing with a HC today on a friends car as well as looking over the Power FC FAQ site and couldn't see anything to set the Power FC to default. The one I'm buying will be running exactly the same setup as mine however I would like to set it to default before all the parts are installed to make sure it runs ok. Is there anyway to do this on the unit? Cheers, Adrian

I've considered that but the tuner I am going to seems to be most comfortable with Power FC's and eManage ultimates. They also seem to be a more adaptable and popular ECU. I'm in Canberra so the market for tuners isn't large. I might look at the option anyway, could always go up to Sydney and get a Toshi remap done.

I have been planning on buying a eManage Ultimate for my RB20 as I will be upgrading to an RB25 when the engine dies. I figured as it is a piggyback it will be very easy to change over. I have now found a RB20 Power FC at a decent price which I am considering purchasing. I was wondering if I would be able to run a 25 on this whenever I need to change. From what I can see the pinouts are slightly different, and that running a RB25 PowerFC on an RB20 is easy, so am I right in thinking doing it the opposite way around would be fine? As I understand it I would just need to get it retuned(obviously), and that I wouldn't have VCT. Is this correct?

Bump, pics of wheels and spacers.