Kwyjibo

Check your idle on startup, if it is the same as when warm then it is likely to be your IAC valve and it often causes problems. You'll need to pull of your main intake pipe and its best to remove the throttle body as well as it sits underneath this. It has a hose running to the bottom of it and one to the top. The problem is the valve is pulled shut by a spring by default. This spring often deforms or snaps so the valve remains open when engine is warm and is constantly delivering too much air and raising your idles. You can open up the IAC and reseat the spring.

Injectors were on very high duty and the standard non-wideband o2 sensor was pretty much stuck to lean under any sort of load above about 7psi. It also started misfiring badly by 10psi boost. You may be right about it not running lean but either way I'd prefer to be safe than sorry. If you have any other ideas why it would be misfiring that would be great, I know coils occasionally have problems but mine was running 1 bar on standard turbo with no problems previously. I got flamed on here about how I'm going to kill my engine last time I asked on here whether there is a way to tell if misfire is caused by lack of spark or something else even after telling people it was just a test and that I know it will run crap until it gets tuned(hence why its off the road and only out occasionally for testing).

R&R is rich & retard. As I understand it once the ECU detects a condition that is very lean it puts itself in a mode that ups the richness of the mixture and retards ignition timing back to a point so it does not damage the engine. I do not have an aftermarket fuel pump but my injector duty was very high as well so not sure if it is the fuel pump or injectors that were limiting factor. I wouldn't risk taking it for more than a test drive, if you can at least lower the boost to its minimum. The 2530 delivers quite a bit more air than the standard unit.

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

Front/dump pipe sold!

Hi Guys, For a few things for sale. RB20 Turbo in not so great condition + lines. Slight shaft play but all the turbine blades are in pretty bad condition, suits a highflow/rebuild. I will be keeping the actuator. Also comes with elbow if required, as you can see one of the turbo elbow studs snapped in the turbo so that will need to be drilled out. Turbo was working fine in car though, was running at about 12psi - $100 A 3" combined Front/Dump pipe to suit R32/R33 gts-t. Just put on a HKS turbo so got a HKS dump pipe for this - $100 a P/S pump to suit RB20 with HICAS. Good condition, thought the bearing had gone and I replaced it, found out it was A/C idler - $80 I have 16" Volk wheels without any tyres. They aren't in great condition(have gutter rash etc), only two have centre caps. One of these is cracked so realistically you can only use 3, these are probably best to just be bought for track use for rears(due to offset). They are 5x100 stud pattern(I think?) but I have adaptors to suit Skyline's. - $150 Only have one of the adaptors lying around so took a picture of it, its a 1cm spacer to fix offset for front, rears are about 3-4mm. Wheels aren't at my place, will get pics tomorrow. I am located in Canberra but will post at buyers expense. If you would like photos of anything please let me know. Please PM or message on 0430 508 321. Cheers, Adrian

Thank you thats what I thought. I will just buy some coils as mine are getting old anyway. I'm not clueless, I just don't have a lot of knowledge apart from what I read on here, which is why I ask so I can learn these things. No need to be rude about it. I know it would be running way too lean and well above the current tune(even though I'm running way less boost than before), but as I stated all I wanted to know is if there is a way to tell the difference between misfiring due to learning out, or misfiring due to ignition issues.

Ummm, if you read my post you would understand that I took it for a TEST drive to ensure the turbo and FMIC was running smoothly(no other mods have been put on yet). I was just wondering if there was a way to tell whether I will need new coils or not BEFORE I spend $700 on the tune I am going to get before I blow my engine. Hence where I said ''I'm not expecting it to run properly without a tune and the new injectors/fuel pump'' I understand there are a lot of fairly clueless people on here but I clearly stated in my first post that my plans are to get a tune and I know my car is not going to run properly until then, and it will be off the road until then. I like to test the car inbetween each mod(obviously I won't be able too with injectors and AFM) to ease troubleshooting in the long term. I just wanted to know if there is an easy way to tell the difference between the misfire so I don't have to take the car out again till its tuned..... Please read my full post next time before posting, anything resembling and answer to my question would have been nice as well.

I'm currently putting together an RB20 with a HKS 2530 and injectors/fuel pump/fmic/z32 AFM/eManage Ultimate. I put the new turbo and FMIC on and have taken it for a test drive to make sure I didn't break and it seemed to work ok(slightly laggier than expected). I'm not expecting it to run properly without a tune and the new injectors/fuel pump but I got a very bad misfire at just under 5000rpm at 10PSI. Is there anyway to test if this is due to lean out or whether its a spark issue? I don't wanna waste money getting new coils if I don't need too but if its a lean out issue then that won't be fixed until the tune, and I want it all together by the time I get it tuned.

Will probably grab the wheels depending on price.

Hi, I bought a HKS2530 and separately a HKS dump pipe second hand with one of their dividers on it. The divider won't fit as the housing on the turbo is divided right up to where it connects to the dump pipe. I understand that due to the gasket there will be a very small gap, but will it matter that much if I remove the divider, plug the screw holes and connect the pipe this way? It may not be perfect but I presume it would be better than the standard dump pipe I have? It seems unlikely that that the dividers match up perfectly when people put them on so I am guessing the wastegate and exhaust chambers are never 100% sealed. Cheers, Adrian

Thanks for that. Is the restrictor in the block itself or on the line attached too the block? Cheers, Adrian

Hi, I have purchased a second hand HKS 2530 for my RB20 with some lines, however the oil line appears to be from standard and doesn't fit the smaller thread of the turbo oil feed(coolant lines fit). I need to get a new line made up, what size restrictor would people recommend to put in this line. I'm unsure if the HKS already has a restrictor in it. I don't want to starve the turbo of oil but I don't want to break any of the seals by getting to much oil in there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Adrian

Ideas anyone? Defintely a fake? Was going to test it under actual load today but one of the bolts on the turbo elbow snapped and I have a boost leak now so I don't imagine I would be getting full airflow.

Anyone have a working Z32 AFM that I could borrow for a day? I think I have a dodgy one but would like to do a quick test.

No worries, I've just been though it all and lucked out and found a HKS2530 kit with everything except turbo elbow second hand. If you do decide to go the highflow route you might like to search for Hypergear on this forum, they offer highflows with a Garett 2871 turbine in it for about $1500 I think. With this highflow you shouldn't lose much response but will get the power gains of a usual highflow.

There isn't really any direct bolt-in turbos available. I understand Hypergears and KKR's need slightly different lines. KKR's also use a V-Band exhaust outlet(Hypergears as well possibly). You will also need to find a pipe to replace the air outlet(turbo elbow). You could get one of the HKS or Apexi kits but you would be looking at $2500 minimum for these. Might be worthwhile looking at something secondhand but if your worried about a high flow then that may not be for you.

Ok just tested the AFM on standard ECU at stand still and logged the following voltages so if the AFM's are linear in their readings its a fake. Standard AFM: idle - 1.1v 2000 rpm - 1.45v 3000 rpm - 1.7v 4000 rpm - 2v 'Z32' AFM : idle - 1.1v 2000 rpm - 1.5v 3000 rpm 1.7v 4000 rpm 2v So can we confirm that the readings are in fact linear so I should be reading much lower at idle, like does it read lower only above a certain airflow(Paulr33 I know you said it should read 0.5 on idle but is this confirmed?)

Nothing wrong with it as I don't have an ECU to run it on yet, I just stressed out when I saw a thread about them and mine looked the same(Nissan logo, sticker has JECS at bottom left rather than ÚNISIA JECS CORPORATION however it doesn't look dodgy). I was just hoping to test it in some way before I payed for a tune then had to go back but I guess its a legitimate one. Might try to quickly hook it up at idle on stock ECU just to see what voltage it reads.

Hmmm ok. Mine looks like that except the JECS label doesn't look dodgy at all. Can't really see any problems with the mesh(sorry don't see what is cheap about the one pictured except it is deformed, mine isn't). Is the Nissan logo only on the dodgy AFM's?

Anyone know if this would work?

Hmm the housing is a bit different too mine but I have the same actuator. Its probably the same turbine but maybe in a different housing. The power/response the guy is talking about sounds similar to the HKS as well. I'd chuck it on and see how it goes, even if its a GT2860r or similar you will get very similar power from it.

Not sure sorry. Mine is branded HKS, can you get picture up of yours to compare?

I'm pretty sure the diamond inlet is for the GTR turbos. I understand that the HKS turbos actually use Garrett turbines with their own housing.

Hey guys, Just bought a used Z32 AFM and I'm a little worried its a fake as it has the Nissan logo on the side and I have heard some people say the dodgy ones have this. Apart from that the JECS sticker looks fine and the mesh is good(not sure what a 'bad'one looks like though). I was wondering if I could test it easily by checking the voltage of my standard AFM under 0 load at idle and up to around 5000 RPM, then wire in the Z32 AFM and do the same. Am I correct in thinking that the voltage should be linear against the air flow, and that the reading of the Z32 AFM should be approx 20% lower than the standard? I just don't want to do the test and think its faulty then find out that they are both meant to read the same up to the certain point, then the Z32 starts to read lower after say 3v or so. Also I know this will run the car lean for a second, will this be ok if I do it for a second while in neutral with 0 load? Cheers, ADrian