mjfawke

The bad news is that they are not legal. The JustJap hub-centric (ie. they locate on the wheel hub rather than the bolts) spacers seem to be well made, but if you get roadworthy'd or (worse) are in a crash might regret it. Especially if you crash and your insurance company walks away from you because your car wasn't street legal. Even the brake upgrade could be a pain - legally you need to get an engineers certificate.

I did some research on this after almost getting done a few years ago, so this was for when the cameras were first introduced. The laser speed checker part of the camera's is effective to at least 500m, but in good conditions (ie. NOT through a tinted window) and with a red target car, it can get accurate speed at over 1km. But the camera itself has two lenses, a wide and a telephoto, and has an official range of 100m - but I've talked to someone who reckons they got pinged at close to 150m. And for those who think they were going too fast to be caught... the speed range was +/- 320kph. The only useful bit of info is that the auto focus used to be a bit slow, so it couldn't get a good shot if you were rapidly decelerating... like someone I may know who doing 190kph on the parkway when he saw the van and managed to slow to 90kph (courtesy of Brembo) as he passed them and didn't get done.

Shudder will be from the clutch, and it sounds like you shagged 2'nd gear synchro. It might work better with fresh oil.... might not. If not, better off fixing sooner rather than later, because it will just damage the selector sleeves and cost you even more money. R32 GTST boxes are cheap compared to R33/R34/GTR, so probably the quickest option would be a second-hand box from an importer.

Mate of mine picked up a scratch in the the rear quarter of his R33 GTR when he parked it at work. Decided to get both rear guards resprayed and the bonnet, front bar and front guards to get rid of the scratch and various stone chips. Quoted $2,500 by the recommended repairer of his insurer. Paint run in the left rear quarter, lower front bar not sprayed ("it's not the front bar"), front guards not sprayed at all, poor paintwork on the bonnet (because they DIDNT F**KING PREP IT PROPERLY), overspray around the fuel filler, inner trim panels cracked and put back in with double sided tape, excessive mastic sealant around the quarter windows causing poor fit, charged for new side moulding clips and the side mouldings now fit poorly.

:laughing-smiley-014:

And this relates to forced induction performance in what way?

And have you checked the computer for fault codes yet?

Check the computer for error codes. Idling at 2K is a symptom of the idle switch in the throttle body not working. The 3.5K cut is due to limp home mode, probably AFM.

The 'OP6' would be on the turbine housing, and I don't believe all of them had the VG30DET OP6 housing anyway. I have what is supposed to be an R34 turbo, has the OP6 exhaust but doesn't have the nylon impeller. Go figure....

I run wideband, and the engine stays closed loop (14.7:1) even on light boost. So - shouldn't go straight to rich. I also get ~ 10lt/100km despite caning it, but I am running a 3.7:1 diff and the car only weighs 1090kg.

If it wasn't an over-rev, I'd be betting on a stuck valve due to the guide not being reamed to size after fitting.

Just one thought - rich mixture means cooler exhaust temp therefore less pressure across the turbine. Running it leaner (as in not excessively rich) should bring it on boost earlier.

... and as I said before, I can hear the noise when free-revving, I just can't work out where it's coming from. And it's not the BOV. As an extra bit of info (left window open, driving alongside retaining wall so I can hear better) , the noise occurs for about 2 seconds in 1'st gear, and about half a second in 2'nd gear. I think at this point, I'm just going to wait for the noise to change before looking further. It doesn't seem to be getting any worse, and it only happens when I abuse the car anyway.

Why? If a Q45 AFM is too small, why are you running a PFC at this stage of tune?

I'm going to say this slowly again, one more time : All... Nissan... boxes... since... at... least... the... 60's... have... had... synchromesh... on... all... forward... gears. For good measure, the GTR also has it on reverse.

Thanks everyone, but as the noise only occurs for about half a second, I don't think it's a leaking gasket or pipework. I also run a pod with 3" induction piping, so no issues hearing noises - but with the bonnet open free revving, all I can hear is serious suction noises from the inlet. A sticking BOV might be the answer if it is slow when closing.... I'll have a look at that next.

My engine has decided to start making a new noise - if I go from off-throttle to full throttle at reasonably high RPM (3k+) in 1'st/second gear, I get a squeal like a slipping fan belt for about half a second (and yes, I have checked the belt, and no - it's not wheelspin). No noise if it builds boost slowly. I can also get the noise by getting the revs up to 4K then going full throttle for an instant - but it's so damned noisy under the bonnet I can't work out where it's coming from (but it's not the fan belt). I'm thinking turbo thrust bearing... any dissenting opinions?

And if you have a look at page CH-31 of the GTR service manual, you will find a 1'st gear synchro baulk ring.

All Nissan boxes since at least the 60's have had synchromesh on all forward gears.

Hmmm.... went back looking at this, and as far as I can tell all of the Trust & GReddy kits are plain bush, not ball bearing. Are you absolutely sure you have a ball bearing core?

Thin wire with a lump in the middle? That's the resistor (or perhaps a thermistor), which is documented by Bosch as "auxiliary temperature sensor". The actual sensor is on the flat insulator in front of the resistor. It works the same way as a hot-wire meter - but has a slower response time and isn't self cleaning. Can't be too bad - Porche uses these thin-film sensors as well.

You said to 'clean the wire' - which doesn't exist in a Nissan AFM. The main sensor is deposited on an insulator parallel to the airflow, and the only wire is the ends of the resistor used as a temperature comparator. Yes, you can clean it all, but bloody carefully.

LOL. Around and about. Still catching up on missed sleep. If you ignore the terrible state of my car, I might even come out to the museum tonight (assuming it's on).

Nissan doesn't use a hot-wire air-mass meter, it uses a thin-film resistor meter. Personally, I have cleaned one that was covered in oil... but it did fail a month later. Some caution is required here.

So what core was this hi-flowed turbo built on? Boring trivia - according to article in Zoom a couple of years ago, Gibson Motorsport bought their own turbo balancing gear because the originally supplied turbos kept on blowing up. Then I found somewhere else that one of the big names in Aus had been supplying the turbos to Gibson. I'm assuming this means that the supplied turbo's weren't up to scratch and were causing their turbo failures in the early days before they started doing them in-house at GMS.