Rowdyr32

I could prob sell you my whole complete car with standard parts minus the engine/wheels/brakes. I'll keep these bits for another car in the future. Would prob be after $5500. It has been siting in my shed for a few years now only getting driven once every 6 month. Just ran out of reg the other week and don't really want to pay it as a trip around aus is in the pipe works and buying a 4wd is planned. I have almost all the standard susp to go in it and can obtain them easily. I have wheels off a falcon that can fit it to move it.

How many suburbs are between Seaford and Patterson Lakes? None at all they are right next to each other. Get your facts right mate. Also who really gives a shit about user names! You drive a R33 gtst's so I could go and pay out on you for a fair while along with most of the world about R33 gtst's and thier drivers. Going by your immature post your a typical one.

Don't have any of the turbo pipes. Do have the oil pump, oil cooler assy, sump windage trays. I'm down near Frankston

ABS unit and master sold. Found a pair of trust gracer style rear pods to suit R32 gtr. Brand new still in primer. Sell for about $160 new Will sell for $120.

I have a pair of standard dumps and a front pipe to suit R32 gtr. All in really good condition in Melb $150

Bump

Won't be seperating it atm. Might be selling the car so I'll use it to keep the AM diff in it. Not really worth me selling an item for $100 and then have to drive 20mins then back to drop it of in work time.

Pm's replied SOLD Jun Bar Fuel pump Short shifer Make some offers if you want while I'm still keen to off load the parts.

I have one as I have been wanting to upgrade to a race seat for a while. Need to see what their worth first or through us an offer. No rips or damage. Just a bit dirty from sitting around for years.

Have a complete R32 GTR rear diff that you could use the centre out of to make yours LSD. After $300 in Melb

Front bar and fuel pump sold pending payment.

Pair Volk Circlar rims 18x9.5 +22mm offest. $300. One painted spray can black. I know where there is another perfect pair for $500 if needed. These sell for around 1500-2000 set. I can't be bothered. Editted offset to +22 Its only letting me send one pm per hour again so if people can attach email addresses to their pm's it will help speed things up.

Only got to send out one pm tonight before being stopped for some reason and now have to wait another hour to send another one so I'll try again tomorrow.

Have a stort shifter. Need to check its all there still. $100

He was good enough to give it to me to. Haven't tried it yet but it was pretty close to what I had. Everybody pulls themselves over A/M radiators in Vic and then their cars can only do a few laps before cooking. Everytime somebody new rocks up to a track day in a skyline they all say get a bigger radiator though they only do 3 laps at a time?? If my oil cooler was as good as my std radiator I could do 20min sessions without a prob. I'm with you. Standard radiators do a great job. To save cash don't go cams like all the others have told you. Don't go dumps. All the 350-370rwkw gtr here don't use cams and the ones that did took them out. Buy a R33 gtr bellhousing or get one off a busted box and possibly take your R33 gtst clutch slave and use the old Nismo twin plate R33 clutch. Saves buying one. You should be able to put the old r33 RA's in the front as its just a straight swap but you will need to buy new springs? 10kg is way to stiff. I know r33 gtr rear don't fit in r32. Their to long. 95% sure the fronts will swap over. One thing you I can't see you mentioned, that is a must on 32's is a master cyl stopper. No point having big brakes when you can almost push the pedal to the firewall anyway. I steal toilet paper and eat rice........... and You questioned spending $200 on seat rails? Why... $200 on Ikeya, ARC, Cusco and Mines sticker would would make your car 15% tougher! I've been told if placed in the right position the vinyl creates vortex's that improve aero but reducing drag and increase downforce due to the interupted laminar flow.

I'll have to get a price on shipping and also work out how to pack it so it won't get damaged. You've saved me a heap of hassles and weekends. It was going to get the chop and go on my 32 gtr. Tim GTR did you forget to write something?

I can post it anywhere at your expense. Don't know about frieght prices. Jump on some of the bodykit supplier sites if you want a rough estimate. The gtr diff is also rubber mounted. From a quick search it look like you would need GTR hubs. You can still put the GTR diff centre into a GTSt to give it a mech diff.

Help me get my shed back in order. Need to fund a new wakeboard! HKS VPC. Come with everything. Use this to remove your AFM's on your gtr and still run std or pfc ecu $400 Allows control of fuel mixtures to make your car run safe AFR's. Uses its own Map sensor and inlet temp sensor plus all std motor sensors. Removed to return a GTR back to standard to sell. Set of front guard liners and front under tray. Has factory front brake ducts and I won't seperate. $150 Getting very rare! RB26DETT oil pump $80 Box random RB26 bits $50. Need to see whats in there. Won't respond to Pm's about this yet. RB26 block. Good for coffea table. Has a cracked water jacket into head bolt hole. Could re-use it for a std build without any probs. $50 Didn't use water or oil before disassembly. R32 GTR fuel pump in cradle $80 each. R32 3inch exhaust with seperate de-cat pipe. Has centre muffler, no rear muffler, just straight throught to out back $100 R32 GTR body fuel cap/flap $30 R32 GTR ABS mater cylinder $75 Below is another full setup R32 GTR full ABS system- Master cylinder, ABS unit, All related brake lines $275. Would swap for non-abs setup plus small cash adjustment my way. Still in car and work well. Removing to strip weight for track car. R32 GTR G-Sensor $100 R32 GTR rear diff and GTR driveshafts. Perfect upgrade for GTST? $450 R32 push type 4 puck solid centre button clutch w/looks like custom pressure plate and std flywheel. In VGC. Appears like it hasn't been used much since new. Heaps of meat $400 lot. Will fit all push type RB series motors. New R/H sill panel $100 Suit GTR/GTST R32 R/H tail light $30 R33 GTST original/genuine JUN front bar. In good condition, need a couple little bits of fibreglass. Looks like a 400r bar but better. $250. These are bloody expensive new. Currently in white with blue pearl. Pair Volk Circlar rims 18x9.5 +38mm offest. $300. One painted spray can black. I know where there is another perfect pair for $500 if needed. These sell for around 1500-2000 set. I can't be bothered. R43 R/H mirror $25 R33 GTR lowered rear springs for std style shocks $50 sits very nice Set Tein stiff springs. Perfect for drift. $30 Pair headlights for R32 gtr but will fit gtst. Removed the glass from one body. Stil have it. They have a few broken mounts but still worked fine. $40 pair. Melbourne 40 min south city. Can post. Please no time wasters. You know who you are!

Rear quarters are about $650 each from nissan and saves a shit load of labour de spotwelding and removing the rear guards.

What do you want for the car. I have plently of cash waiting.. Please reply to the pm. Its been for sale for 9 months now... What is cheap?

You all say you need to dry sump a gtr but why doesn't a gtst need dry sumping as a nissan sump is a sump. They all have pickups and no baffles in there, just windage trays. Can't the gtst's pull the corner g's or accel g's of a gtr? Just curious?

I found most gtr drivers problems are they carry brakes to hard into the corner, turn in early and to hard and get on the power to late and hard hoping the 4wd will sort it out but its to late for them. They are understeery but I have noticed and learnt like some of you have mentioned to brake hard, get off the brakes a lot, turn in late and smooth to loads it up and get on the power early and fairly hard which makes the car understeer a fraction and then 4 wheel power side into/out of the exit. Interested in all the front diff LSD opinions as my thing doesn't seem to fry the front inside out of corners at all and I'm on streets but maybe thats the prob as it isn't generating enough grip to unload the inside tyre enough. Bought slicks for it last night so that might be another story. Also never thought about the 1.5 locking on brakes.. I was reading an article recently from Mark Skaife testing a R32 Winfield vs R35 "There’s a bit of crudeness," he smiled from the cockpit. "There's a lot of stuff that was really modern for the era, and now not. Like the gear lever, and where it is. We never bent the lever and put it where we wanted it ... It's a lot more road-car-y, and that's essentially what they were." Skaife did three or four laps in the R32, dabbing brakes as he left the pit-lane, then giving the car an 80 percent thrashing for a similar portion of each lap. He was deferring to the car's age and value, but owner Ashwood had also asked him to shake it down for that weekend's Phillip Island Classic. The barking note from the side-exit pipe was a reminder that touring cars don't need a V8 to sound great. "I felt very comfortable straight away," Skaife grinned when he came back to the pits, remembering the familiar click-click-clicking of the American-made Electramotive engine management. "A lot of nice memories come back, from just the feel of it and the sounds and the things that were part of what made the car very special. "You know, so many of the intrinsic, engineering things that we did with that car, as soon as you get in and drive it, poof -- they just come back. I mean, the way that car turns at the corner, is unbelievable. In fact, it would be the best car on turn-in that I would have driven in 10 years or more. It’s unbelievable." A mate now has most of the suspension settings for the Winfield GTR back in the day so it'll be good to see what the ran. Also made my own 4wd controller out of a Jaycar 0-5 volt diy kit. Cheap and works well but not adjustable easily for different conditions. I made 280rwkw inj limited on 32 N1 turbos so your 400hp is easily achievable.

We just chuck out SBS30 batteries at work when their over 2 years old. I've seen you around the forums a bit so if you want one let us know when your down in Melb and you can come and pick one up. There good batteries as long as you don't run them dead. Same as these http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_pro...;action=product

Wise choice with the 32. Best bang for buck car around. I've been doing a bit of research lately and have a job in aviation so know a little about aero theory. Wouldn't waste your time with either of those diffusers. Their made for kids doing blockies at the local shops. I'd go just a flat piece extending a little foward of the lip and back to the engine cross member. They say about 75mm off the ground. Nothing at the rear if your not going to run a full under tray. A mate just made an undertray like I said for a friend on a r32 gtr and with that and a proper alignment he went from 1.48's at PI to 1.43's in one day. Also don't know if you'll need the front diff atm with the power your running. Nismo do a r-tune I'm pretty sure fot the track? S is for street? R is for track? I run 7kgmm front and 5kgmm rear in my car and it handles well and absorbs the bumps well. My car can smash ripple strips and then just settles where a lot of the stiffer sprung cars struggle and oftern won't go near them. Just because its Jap brand and stiff I wouldn't get to excited over it. Everybody who is quick that I have their susp setups on record say most people run cars way to stiff. I don't even know how you managed to power hard out of corners with 10kg rears. The car would have struggled for traction. How did you go compared to the gtr's with the same mods in the gtst. 1-2 seconds a lap slower? It has all been done before so no need to try new things as most of it is all old and you'll just waste cash. Have a word to some of the guys pulling quick times. Easiest way to get to a semi quick pace and then it up to you and fine tune the car.

Interesting regarding the cradle Scott. It would be good to just bolt in what I have becuase it already has a a/m diff centre, cusco adj upper arms, braided lines with slotted rotors and whiteline swaybar. I'm guessing the rear strut towers are higher than in a r32? I've noticed a few cheap stagea's out here but there aren't to many for sale atm. Might just hang out and wait for a bit. If I can grab one for about 5 that would suit me fine. Thanks for the help boys!