Rowdyr32

I have some pineapples you can have cheap if thats what your talking about. Easy to do yourself if its just these rings.

Def would have been using the gtr loom and pfc. Makes life nice and easy.

I've been doing a bit of reading and the swap seems pretty simple to put my RB26 into a Stagea. I did a RB26 conversion into my GTST in my carport about 8 years ago with little to no info in a few weeks but that eneded up being almost a straight swap. I found a link to the gearbox swap a bloke has done http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...in-t331327.html I guess the engine will bolt straight in using the stagea mounts and R33 gtr radiator hoses. Not sure on the loom situation but cannot be very hard to diagnose. Theres only a few wires there. Not sure which diff ratio I'll use yet. The other problems are to do with wheels and brakes. Will I manage to get my 18x10+12mm P1 QF rims to fit. I don't mind flaring the guards even if it is a fair amount. Couldn't find any info relating to the biggest rims/offsets you can fit under a Stag. Just read/saw that 18x10 +22 fit but stick out a bit. I also have some Circlar 18x9.5 +22/18? pair and can get some matching in 18x9.5 +38. Also have some 25mm spacers. Might be a better option and everybody won't love them so I'd feel safer. Alway get comments at the lights about the QF's. Do R32 gtr brakes only fit on a Series 1? What is the difference? If it only hole dia thats not a prob. Are the shocks the same as R33 in the front. I can then fit my 32 GTR front shocks straight in and then modify the R32 GTR rear shocks to extend to the same length as the R33. Are rear 33 shocks the same length between gtst/gtr? Are stagea exhaust specific or could I mod a R33 or R32 on easily. I've made full exhausts before so if its just a cut and shut I'll use my 3.5. Fairly quiet. Is there any particular model to focus on buying to make this conversion easier. Hoping to swap into the Stag Forged piston RB26 with -5's with PFC etc. Making just under 300rwkw and only needs inj now for 350+ OS giken triple plate clutch and manual box A/M diff centre. Very tight 100mm intercooler Oil cooler Turbo back 3inch dumps merged into 3.5 exhaust 324mm slotted rotors and GTR calipers with braided lines Revalved Bilstiens for track work. For the price of selling the GTR shell and all the bit I don't need plus 2 other cars I own I should be able to do this without it really costing me anything, I get my yard back plus a nice car. All wins If anybody has any links or info it would be really appriciated or know of anybody with nice cars for sale upto/around 10k. Cheers in advance.

If been procrastinating for a while and have pretty much decided this is the way to go. Need a daily to tow the boat and bikes. Don't like leaving the gtr in the bush or at boat ramps. Must be pretty clean, no dints, don't mind scratches or damaged bumpers. Going or not going it doesn't bother me. Looking to spend up to 10k. Will travel for the right car. Located in melb

I have used Jaycar 7ohm ceramic resistors with no problems before. Their rectangular and about 3cm long from memory. From what I can recall the gtr's resistance is 7ohm in their pack. Can somebody confirm the resistance? I just soldered and heatshrinked everything with no probs for years.

There out there mate. I bought a complete mint R33 gtr a few year back uncomplied for $9000 in Springvale. I've prob bought another 2 or 3 clean r32 gtr's with good mods and blown motors for $8k in the past.

Thinking DECA is the go. It been to long betwen drinks with you boys! I'm going out in Richmond sat night trying to chase a few munters at the Swan with a heap of mates. Your welcome to come. I've msg'd Ash already about the R33 rolling shell his mate has. My plan atm is to put all my gtr gear into a R33 GTR or a Stagea. Stagea is the best value I think. Almost buy a whole Stag for the price selling the gtr shell. 300rwkw tow car sounds good.

Yeh posted it and then thought about the suspension mount thing and also the weight bias. Gtst's are very light in the ass. Didn't know he was on RE55's also. Thought he would have gone stickier tyres to go with the car. Adam has massive tyres on his car though. Had a read of the sports sedan page and they are in the 1.08's but the average is 1.10's. Another 6-8 seconds faster than him and then another 6-7 faster than you. Where do they gain all this time? V8 Supercars have been in the 1.09's and are prob the same power/brakes/weight. He is super quick but all I was trying to imply is there should be a couple seconds more in the car in the future with tyres/practice/suspension. It would have cost more than a second hand supercar to build so I bet he's hoping to gain a little more time. I know the Sports sedans and Supercars have proper suspension guys who know boats and that is a massive advantage plus all the practice the drivers get in their cars is always going to be hard to beat or even get near to for a weekend club guy. He even admits though when you speak to him that its pretty much almost a sports sedan. It'll be good to see how you go in the old girls Bris. Hope she treats you well and behaves with all the love you've given her. More importantly when are we having beers?

I'd like to see the g's Adams car is pulling around the corners verse some of the setup gtr's on the same tyres. Suspension geometry has alway interested me even though I know little about it. I'd just like to see if the time is mainly in balls out around corners or in the straights/braking. 1.16 is fast for a skyline gtst and congrates to Adam getting there but slow compared to the sport sedans times. No doubt it can go a quicker with practice and dialing it in. Hanging to see how it progresses. Its a monster of a car with a good steerer. Jack its funny how things have changed. You only see a handfully of people you know at the track these days from SAU. I like you, bris etc and most of the others haven't seen the track in a while apart from Russ/Ryan/Ant. Don't even who why I peruse the forums when I never drive my car. This SAU forum addiction is hard to shake!

A mate has a R32 4 door which he wants to sell. It has chipped ecu, fmic, newish good tyres, new clutch, exhaust, boost cont plus more. He's prob only done a few thousand km's on a full SydneyKid susp setup inc shocks, spring, swaybars. The car handles awesome with one or 4 people in it in the adelaide hills. He wants me to pick it up and sell it in Vic due to mod prob in SA. He'd be happy with 5k I'd imagine. Pm me if interested.

Glad this popped up in my first search on the subject. I have a 32 gtr that isn't serving its purpose anymore (to track orienated) so was hoping to sell the shell and put the driving gear in a stag for a daily. Cheers kidafa you've saved me a heap of trouble shooting if/when I do it!

As for the quick gtr's you are comparing to being only just quicker than the gtst the gtr's aren't made to corner? Prob why they never brag about Winton times. Its not a drag strip. To be fair Ant was prob lapping 2 seconds off the potential of his setup due to his mods even if he had average tyres when at Sandown so prob the same at Winton. Like you said you have prob guessed Ants mods with full Racepace susp, good quality parts in brembo's, semi's, 270-280rwkw. We were the same speed down the straights a while ago and I have 280rwkw so power is guessed. I think Ant is a bit like Jack, Gadg, Ferni for example and will work into his grove and when he feels comforable will progress and punch some good times for thier setups. Russ has been pushing his car in a similar setup for a lot of track time now so he should be going the times he is and he is def more agressive. Watching him catch turn one at EC confirms this. Its all confidence and practice. Watching the video the gtr isn't getting pushed to hard. The cars all have the potential to go faster they just need to be dialed in and driven hard. Ant said his alignment sheet had that the rear wheels were toed in? Every bit of info I have colated of the really quick 32 gtr's say you should run toe out on the rear. Do Racepace make their setups safe and smooth feeling fo their customers? Compromise? I haven't seen any vids where Racepace cars are nimble and twitchy like watching race cars on TV or youtube. That makes my car which only has the old 32N1 RE tune now on the -5's with laggy 280rwkw, Full boost 5k, RDA rotors, ebc front pads and std $15pads rear, and suspension with a DIY alignment look ok with a 1.23 Sandown on streets and if I had time to push for another session def would have been in the high1.22's. If I with some practice and a few alignment changes and proper brake pad combination, better power graph with same power should run a low 1.22. That should be about right for my gtr and the lighter gtst's on streets can get down to a say a low 1.24 mid 1.23 at Sandown. Where will that put my gtr times if it got semi's for a not expensively modded gtr? It has had all the same mods that a gtst would require done to it and thats all. General track setup. I'm still quicker than any street tyred gtst at Sandown. They are very close though so I won't pipe up to much. They'll be there soon. So I whould be happy to say a gtr with a the same mods as a gtst with slightly more power to offset the weight GTR 1500kg/280rwkw=5.35 but has 4wd drivetrain loss also to subtract GTST 1350kg/230rwkw=5.86 The gtr would still lap 1 - 2 seconds faster with experianced club (still average in race driver terms) drivers. Gtr def takes less skill to drive quick but is the same as a gtst if you want to push them to the limit. You need to know how to drive a car. Most of the people out there don't have the skill or aggressiveness to get there lowest time out of the car. I know I don't have that bit extra! What are your opinions?

Ants gtr has a lot more suspension it it now compared to Russ's bolt on gear. Ant was telllig me at Sandown a month ago it now has the same suspension in it as most of the Racepace gtr crew. Hey not all GTR owners spend money on beauty products. I cut my own hair and still can't afford to track my gtr?

I'd buy a partly stripped silvia/180sx for $1500-2500 and put all your gear into it. Heaps of a/m parts for them becuase all the skid kids crash them and can't keep the wreck at mum and dads. I have never seen a super quick r32, r33 or 34 gtst hear in Vic. A modded track Datsun 1600 has run quicker than them all by a fair few seconds. A silvia will weigh less than a skyline by a fair wack. The 25 and box should go in without to many drama's. It will save you fortune not having to waste all these weekends and cash trying to save weight and make custom gears because it already weighs less. The 33's brakes should be fine on it for the start. Your diff centre might fit if you have one. No need for a dog box if the car weighs as little as this and with only 500hp. Should by a guess have it weigh 1100kg or less with cage? No matter how much money you spend and time you put into a GTST a pretty std GTR with a bit over 300rwkw will kill it around a track with ease and will still be street driven. Sticking with a r33 because u like them seems a waste of time if going quick is you goal. Its either one or ther other and if I was going to spend all this time building a quick car I'd want the quickest car for the dollars. After saying all this I bought a 32 GTR with forged pistons, tripple plate clutch, diff, turbos's etc for $20k 5 years ago because I wanted the best bang for buck and street reg'd. Nothing mechanically has broken yet and it was the quickest/strongest car I could get for the money at the time and prob still is now. I was a RWD guy before it.

You are trying to establish this as a rw condition item. If he didn't see the leak or it didn't drip like the guys said its not his problem. It can weep. You should have looked at the car more clearly if it was so obvious. If your going to hassle the mechanic over little things like that your the kind of person who will stuff it for the rest of us who just want a RWC to get the car in our name and not get picked on for b/s items. I like many others are happy as long as it is safe. Brakes,tyres, susp all good then its ok. The 3.5 magna's are awesome under rated cars for reliability and so cheap. Everybody I know who has had one and mechanics said nothing ever went wrong with it them.

Make sure they hooked up the cooler piping tight aswell, as a leak will make it run rich and miss if they touched it. Also check turb boost line, Map sensor line and bov line. Does it miss under non boost accel to the redline?

Don't believe all the above talk. Some is true and some is absolute rubbish. I did the conversion about 8 years ago in my carport after weighing up modding the 20 or just go 26 for the same cash. You can chop the diff off the sump without requiring welding if you are smart. I managed it fine after reading all the b/s out there saying to use all these different sumps and talk about custom sumps. Wasted a fair bit of time before I started the conversion sussing out which sump to use due to all the inaccurate articles out there. The 26 sump gives the g/box housing good support also. No need to mod it if your not running slicks. Just add an extra litre of oil. Use the RB20 engine mounts. The loom is a direct plug in if you have the complete loom. Might have to run one wire to power the resitor pack? The Don't know where all this talk about loom mods is coming from. Its not needed. Somebody is scamming a few of you boys. $600 to do nothing sounds ok to me. Hell send me the loom and I'll do it for $300 in a one day turn around. I'll save you $300 right there. If you have the front cut all the heater hoses will line up and same with radiator. As Dmac said in his conversion post he had probs with the p/s pump in his conversion you need to possibly run the rb20 bracket or give it a file. I think the pully ratio's might be different because I needed another p/s belt. Can't remember what I did to to the bracket but I never bought anything. Made my own front pipes for $50 in 2.5 inch and had to buy the belt so $15 and modded a falcon radiator hose to fit because it was ready on a Sun arvo $15. I wouldn't double any costs. I was a 1st or 2nd year apprentice back the so money was tight. Would have spent maybe $100 on top of the motor cost to do the conversion and would have taken 2 weekends and a few nights in between to have it driving. Just run the rb20 g/box first off because its easy and cheap and doesn't need to be removed to put the motor in. A 20 box should handle the power of a boosted std 26 fine. Mine lasted several drift nights and industrial estates plus a few circuit days with 255's on the rear. Just use the gtr clutch With this info you should be able to do it in a couple weekends. Hope it help you and clears up some of the confusion. I did it a fair while ago but its the best I can remember.

Thats how to do it. Glad to hear you've been holding the flag high. I was only giving Sunshine a bit of a dig with the weak comment. Was hoping he'd bite. Might have to scab a lift off you if you have a free seat closer to the date if its ok?

Give me slab and I'll make it a 50,000km car to ease your mind. If it going to buy it doesn't matter how many km's. Stuff breaks. Cars shit themselve on first runs on dyno's after an engine rebuild so its really a gamble. My 32 gtst had a rb26 in it for two years but was sold stock motor with a fmic and exhaust even though it had been tracked and abused for 2 years. Looking at it you would have never known though. I wouldn't care it seat and interior were worn as thet are cheap and easy to change. Pay attention to the underside of the car and how the engine runs, smooth all the way though revs, gears aren't notchy or whine and the diff locks up. No worn mounting rubber bushes in the driveline and the rails are straight. Clutch doesn't slip on a big launch and the car doesn't feel like a waterbed to drive. Pull out the boot panels to look for damage/respray as well as around doors and panels fit with good lines. Worn tyres brakes etc are cheap and easy also. If aircon doesn't work it a good indicator it might have been front ended for example.

Might be interested but they are only $415 new each. Tyres aren't worth anything becuase they are stuffed. The belt is about to pop through. Whats your best price? Link to $415 price http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=htt...yAU%26prmd%3Dvi

Boys and girls listen up... Are you listenening.. I've seen a few of the vids from the last few rounds and I'd like to see you some of you step it up apart from the top guys who are driving awesome. Top work boys! Just go big and when you think your there go even bigger. Massive power slides not power skids with a spin (lame) and huge handbrake turns and compression lock ups not sensible driving Miss Daisy style. Ramp it up. Action, Action, Action! But save it for the skid pan if you can't drive in control! And the night life. People give me some stories! I want to hear some feedback. Back like the old days. Ohh the old days! I want people spewing like the guy from Sydney (he was the weakest one that night and probably ever. He was also missing the Mexican gene so a little understandable). Plus all the nudy runs and people dancing with stripper poles for hours and riding cows and swimming in the lake etc. Plus remember.. Never under estimate the power of the RB20. Never question it and never speak of it because its true power is so powerful and so secret that it will never ever be seen and only heard...

Braided lines and a master cylinder stopper will fix all your probs with some new fluided added. Every car I drive feels like the brakes are spongy in comparison.

I pulled the light beam cutoff out of my low beam lights to give more light. Quick and easy mod and works. They still aren't blinding like the Euro car so its ok in my mind. Not legal but isn't to bright to other drivers as they are average headlights to start with.

If think its going to be a lot more work than you think and how are u going to cough up the 20k for the track. Easier for you to just book all your mates into a track day. People have no idea the work the behind the scenes guys do for free. I'm not one but am mates with most of the SAU Motorsport commitee. Even the fact you didn't get the Medics answer says your in over your head. Plus I wouldn't imagine you'll get away with doing skids there. Its an International circuit.

Both ECU's sold. Exhaust and twin turbo pipe sold One g sensor sold Harmonic balancer sold All the other stuff needs to be sold. I've been getting a few job offers lately and need the place cleared out incase I need to up and go if I get the right offer.