Rowdyr32

I just towed mine behind my old mans car to local noise tester when mine was epa'd for noise and I didn't clear it in time. Was it legal - I don't know. Really just drove behind him with the rope there as you need the motor running to get brakes and power steering anyway.

I'll pm you the good info and am with Bris! To much money gets wasted in wanky susp for club cars. Just copy my car. Has nothing to fancy and does pretty well for what it is. Cusco fixed upper arms 3.5deg, adj Cusco rear uppers, tien castor rods and whiteline swaybars with bilstiens. Get the fronts for about $250 secondhand, rears prob $200. Swaybars $500 new. Castor rods $150ish. It has never put me in a bad situation. You having never driven a gtr hard it going to take at least prob 10 trackdays before you even begin to understand how to steer the car let alone touch the susp. Better than putting $5000 susp in your car you can't understand. The extra trackdays you could do with the money you saved would be more benifitial. I don't get how so many guys do one track day with maybe 25 laps in groups of 3 laps where ther car only does 2 fast and then say they need to take the car to the workshop because it doesn't handle right. They prob haven't even learnt how to drive the new setup! Don't get caught in the cheque book racing.

Have one std bore and has been decked. Was removed due no.6 ring land. Has a crack between head bolt hold and one water jacket. Won't effect a stdish car. $100. Would have used it but had already bought another motor before I stripped it.

Agree with Ash. Wouldn't be pulling myself over those results. Obviously a dodgy maintained, high reading dyno to keep customers like you happy who don't understand the basics behind how dyno's work and calculate the data. People comparing chassis dyno results are only kidding themselves. To many variables.

Looking good. If your playing around any nights next week I might pop over for a look.

Have a rb26 balancer for you. Just need to find it in the shed tonight.

If I ever worked for a company that would sack me over stuff like that I would be out of there asap. Bugger that for a joke. There are so many suck up loosers out there that try to climb the chain and shit on everybody below them on the way up. This world really needs a reality check! A good manager IMO would have had a go at you. Made you feel bad for half an hour. Let you think about it and then came back and discussed the problem in a nice way so settle everything back down. They have by far been the best types of people who I have worked for. You hate them for a bit and then its back to normal and its off your chest and thiers. By your comment your not intending to do anything. Your just watching as the people above you run the company into the ground. Not you fault the employed a bunch of monkeys. Sounds like the manager is intimidated by you and doesn't want his position to be comprimised so he want you out of the picture. I have worked for a few of them and thats the way they work! Go in there with a can of "Harden the F up" for them and resign if thats what the meeetings about. It only Safeway anyway! If your a good worker its thier loss!

Its a 99 model I have been told first reg'd in 2000. Don't know km's off hand and it is blue.

What colour is the smoke? Oil is white. To much fuel is black. Compression really depends on the quality of the test gauge being used as I can bet nobody has ever calibrated one. If all cylinders on the tester are within 5-10 psi of each other it shouldn't be to bad for an older motor. If you can change plugs in your car you can do the test yourself its easy.

Hankook evo S1. Awesome tyre. If I can do the times I'm after one day it will put them only 1 second a lap behind similar cars in Vic running semi's. About 2.5 sec lap slower than semi's atm but I still run std rotors and $15 pads in the rear and still learning. Next year hopefully!

Saw the car today. There's nothing in it atm. Very nice intensive quality build. All 32 gtr's have finned diffs.

Xsara Citroen 2001- First reg 2002 VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): VF7N1NFUN73165372 Body: 4 dr Sedan Engine: 1.6 litre Petrol Transmission: Automatic Price $1500 Really clean little car for the price. I bought it to use as a cheap daily to get around in and to and from work, it has served me well for the last 11 months. Its annnoying as the fuel bill won't be as good as the cruiser but cannot afford two rego's at the moment. It drives straight and I cannot find any previous accident damage. It has a few little scratches and a couple really small carpark dints. It has new brake pads and rotors all around. Car looks good with the mags. These cars are selling for around $5-7k on the net so grab yourself a bargain as I have to sell it! I have put 6000km on the car and have since bought an old landcruiser to get my boat around so it would be nice to get the space back. It comes with many great features 6 Stacker CD Player + CD Head Unit 6 Speaker Stereo Adjustable Steering Col Air Cond. - Climate Control Airbags - Driver & Passenger (Dual)? Body Colour - Bumpers Central Locking - Remote/Keyless Disc Brakes Front Ventilated Disc Brakes Rear Solid Drive By Wire (Electronic Throttle Control) Engine Immobiliser Adjustable Height Headlights Intermittent Wipers Variable Power Door Mirrors Power Steering Power Windows - Front Only Tacho Velour Trim Etc Things that require attention Remote locking as it doesn't work.The batteries are flat in the key possibly? Centeral locking does work with key. Drives carpet has worn through on the left foot side - See photo Transmission slips in 3rd. It if not driven correctly make the car go into limp home where you just need to turn the key on and off while driving and its fine again. Might happen once every 3 weeks. It is easy to drive around it. I drive it from Seaford to Moorabbin every few days. I called around the wreckers and you could get a 60,000 km old g/box for under $900. Glove box and centre storage lid are both damaged but don't affect the eay the car goes. It doesn't blow any smoke or use oil No registration or RWC - Please read this as I don't want to get messed around by another buyer who didn't read the add properly! Car will not be sold with registation under any condition so please don't ask. Don't want the hassles. Car is to be picked up from Seaford or I can deliver it within Melbourne if the car is paid for prior. Don't want to have people mess me around after I have driven all over town. I have tried to list everything to my best genuine knowledge. As it is currently registered I will need the car to be paid for in full before I cancel the registration. Car can be test driven as it is currently registered but will be sold without registration. Gareth 0417370869 in Frankston Vic Also parents have an Excell, 5 speed that they got off a friend. Has really good tyres (almost new), tow bar and a few other things. Has a few dints and scratches. They want $650 for it. No reg/rwc.

I would never buy a stock 32 gtr for more than 10-15k. Take the chance and buy one with 15-20k worth of mods for 20k. I'd trust a possibly thrashed forged car with pistons, cluth, turbo's injectors, exhaust, diff, susp, wheels, brakes etc over spending 20k on a stock one that might shit the next week or spit a turbo and your up for the cash for a motor rebuild anyway. If the one with all the mods dies at least you have all the gear to go with it and a fresh motor. Drive the modded car at the same power as a boosted stocky it would never die!! You can't really thrash a gtr to hard on the street compared to it doing track days. Its like people talking about thrashed cbr1000's and r1's. Bikes do over 100 in first gear in around 3 second so you can't trash it to hard unless its tracked. How many gtr's are on the track compared to whats out there, not many. Might need a clutch and g/box worst case for a streeter. No probs with gtr diffs. Don't know what the guys are talking about. Transfer cases are a big problem with slipping and cost a few $ to rebuild. Don't trust the gauge. There are so many cars you would drive over a stock gtr for the same cash anyway. Thier not that great these days in std form compared to newer cars. Modded thier great and cheap bang for buck!!!

Mate has one in SA atm still with vic reg. He told me the other day he'd like to sell it. Pm me for his details. It has SK Bilstiens, chipped ecu, FMIC and a few other thing. He took me out in the SA hills for some fun (not skids) and it was a heap of fun.

R32 gtst/gtr front shocks are the same and R33 front will also fit 32. Why didn't the ohlins fit?

In the company there would be about 20 in each company but thats in many different areas including all the rework departments and the office people. On the floor about 6 tradesmen and one or two apprentices usually going at a time at both companies I have worked for full time. It really depends on the type of effort the guys put in with training you. The first company as an apprentice they really pushed quality and took a lot of time to train people but where I am now as a contractor the full time guys don't seem to push the apprentice that hard and don't get up him for doing average work. They should push them to do better work but when the guys above them get lazy and don't spend the time to teach the apprentices, the apprentices don't really have that much of a chance to better themselves unless they get more self motivated in themselves. They can't teach temselves though if they don't understand whats going on. I've recently started spending more time to teach the one where I am now. The more they know and understand, it can be transfered into different areas of the trade and the risk of making mistakes lessens. Adis my brothers a sparky and had to quit one company becasue they were just using him for labour really as a second year. They wouldn't sign his release papers so he just stopped turning up on time and took heaps of days off until they had had enough and eventually signed them. Lots of rough ins and fit outs where the tradesman would just drop him off and go and do other things usually not work related. Years later he's started a business with one of his old boss's and does more than ok for himself. Payed off in the end big time! Stick with it.

I would personally prefer to train a clued on person from scratch and have them do everything perfect from the start than take on a guy who has only ever done oil and brake changes for 4 years. Apprectices learn way to many bad habbits these days and don't get the correct training. I know a few guys that work at dealership and when it comes to diversity they don't really know that much. I would know more than some of them! Apprentices only cost money when they either they descide to do things unsupervised or have not been taught/advised how to do a job properly. We take people of the street for apprenticeships and we're working on $400k up to $3.5 million dollar helicopters where making any type of mistake isn't an option. And thats the difference. We train young guys to that standard! Just one main rotor blade is worth more than a R34 gtr and an R35 gtr is just pocket money. A 35 gtr would only just buy the turbine module of the engine minus the FCU, compressor and gearbox. Just the engines are $500k plus. So one mistake can cost the company's I've worked for hundereds of thousands. Not just a $5000 worth car engine parts worst case. In eight years in aviation I have only cost the companies maybe $5k in mistakes which is only one dropped part and one incorrectly inspected part where I missed one a chipped spline which was found during rework. Not bad when I have stripped, inspected, assembled and dyno'd over 200 gas turbine engines and modules. Costing a company $5k for over a few million dollars worth of profit isn't to bad. Never ever had one module fail on the dyno or ever grounded and aircraft due to a mistake made by myself. I just went door knocking and they took me off the street after a weeks work experiance. People talk up the performance car scene but like any job its the standard of the guy doing the work that gets you the quality of the job. Workshops that everybody love like Racepace get such a good name because of the quality of the work they produce. Thier machanic must be a smart and maticulous guy. Not leaving banjo fittings loose/hoses off and measuring everything to the ten's of thou is the difference. It doesn't matter where you come from. Some people have it and others don't! If I were you guys I would stay away from working on cars and be a sparky, plumber or get an industrial appreticeship etc and leave the cars to be a hobby. You will earn that much more in other trades and can do cashies! You can then just pay people to work on your cars. I couldn't stand sitting in front of a computer all day or listenning to lectures for 3-4 years after finishing school and found avaition to be a well paid, mainly clean highly respected industy. Good luck. Just get out there and go door knocking. Its the only way you'll get into a good company and job.

Have a pair of circulars 18*9.5 and am after a pair of anything really in the 18 inch 9.5 or 10 width to transfer my road tyres onto. In Melb

Any exhaust shop will have them.

Offset won't effect the brake clearance. The spoke and wheel design is all that will effect clearance. The centre part of the rim is still in the same location with different offsets. Being a beginner I would recommend less sidewall flex as while learning you won't have the skills yet to drive around the flex yet of a higher sidewall profile. Turn in is a lot easier with less sidewall flex and the car woun't move around as much. Just a heads up.

Pull it out and stop being pussy. Silvia's aren't worth shit so why worry about resale. Its only going to go to a skid kid anyway when you sell it so it makes it more drift spec. Win Win. I just put my battery in the boot so thats 10kg off the front wheels as I had a large battery and moved it as far to the rear left as I could and when I remove the aircon inc under dash that should be another 15kg off the front of the car hopefully. Weight is weight and I have never seen Ash ever do a trackday so his opinion doesn't count Sorry Ash I'm with Bris. Std radiator and heater on FTW!

Should have done it no worries. Both of my half shagged xf falcons have towed my gtr and do 100-110 no worries. The BA shouldn't have even broken a sweat. Ford normally ford with their falcons only offer the heavy duty tow pack with their auto's. No need at all for a 4x4 to tow a car. Mates have towed a massive caravan around oz no worries in a BA. We used to tow large gen sets plus gear behind EL and AU ford utes for years without missing a beat. They used to tow in 4th fine also with a lot more weight than 2 ton. If anything thing was going to go in a auto its going to be the clutch packs most likely. They were the weakest link when working with DSI.

I went to the Ford DECA day after after one of the SAU DECA's. The courses were way to tight and slow and the only reason they ran that type of course is because the officals said they tried using the whole skid pay and the ford guys kept spinning off the skid pan ( Hinted "they can't drive very well") and it was in their best interest to keep it small and safe. Semi's are rubbish. Keep it real on the limiter and streets!!!

I've only got a lot less power than you and mine will spin all four 265's for a second on streets no worries at launch. Listen to the others above.... Just stop being a pussy and rev it harder!!!!

I've got some P1 QF's. I bought them for the weight and compared to some other 18x10 rims like volk challenge and some circulars they have to weigh at least half as much. Can carry them with tyres on, by the spokes with one hand easily.