Rowdyr32

I've had a couple where I have had to put a bicycle innner tube around the balancer and then a chain from the balancer to the front tow hook and then wrap a racket strap bloody tight around the inner tube and chain. This is the only way I could get two engines bolts to crack with a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a pole with two people. There was to much flex in the drive train and couldn't get it to stay still any other way. It would just turn with the purchase. Some are bloody tight!

Way smaller than tha above ones. These are fairly cheap examples compared to what we use but the same workings. They come in many different amp ratings. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SF2252

If you want a easy to trouble shoot loom why not use circuit breakers instead of fuses. I hate fuses with a passion expecially when in a hurry. If your not using that many, they are easy to mount and label and can be position nicely and easily on a custom made aluminium panel with your lights/fuse together. Think they are only a few $ each from Jaycar. They are screw connection mainly. We only use circuit breakers in all the helicopters we maintain except for the main busses. There is a place down here called Connector World and they sell all types of great connectors. Solder or crimpped pin type. I pin to 100 pin connectors in metal and plastic. Not really that expensive either and change an average looking job into a million $ one. Can take some pics of some dash's/interiors to give an idea of how easy and neat it is.

This is the only pic I have atm. I currently have the centres out getting painted white. Tyres aren't really good for anything.

I have been sick so haven't been bothered to reply to pm's or doing anything else over the last week. Mentioned I hadn't been sick for over a year and the next day it hit me. Jinxed myself. I'll catch up tonight and send a few pm's.

Have been sick so haven't had a chance to get some good pics or do anyhting really over the last week Cheers Priestly and Ashneel. I have had so many dead end pm conversations over the years I'm over it. As for pics its a straight gunmetal 32 like all the others and visually from the outside it is in VGC! The only people who have even bought cars off me have been the ones who called so if you cannot afford a $2 phone call for a quick conversation you probably cannot afford the car.

I need a R33gtst bumper support thats straight and a R32 gtst bumper suppport just for the mounts that run foward. Don't want to chop the good one I have now and through another one out the other month. Doh! Let me know what you have and how much. Melb only.

Just file out the bolt holes for the drain so the are elongated. Worked fine for me and I have never had any leaks or problems.

Also have some in Melb. Std ones with bolts. Can post.

It will work with a pfc fine as a pfc uses the same wiring loom as a std ecu. I'll get some pics as well as some for the others who have requested pics. Postage would only be about $15 or I could even drop it off as I work in Moorabbin so your not to far away.

I think the g sensors are both sold Ahmed but to inform you the pn's are 98805 05U00. Mike they seem exactly like the same thing as the 01U00 items. R32's use the 05U00 number so I don't know if the number you have is a factory replacement. Mine 100% came out of 32's. Have spoken to Roy. Will pm you.

Just a couple things in the shed I'd like to clear out. Front right hand R32 GTR drive shaft with good boots $100 Rear drive shaft. Not sure which side $100 Right hand R32 tail light $25 Rear bumper reo off R32. No damage $80 Right hand mirror $30 Set Nismo lmgt2 rims with some gutter rash. 17x9 +17 offset $950. Perfect R32 gtr offset and would be fat on a gtst but guards would need flaring a fair bit. HKS Vein Pressure Controller - deletes afm's on GTR's $300 Inc controller,map sensor,temp sensor, looms etc GTR rear seat and seat belts $300 GTR fuel pumps x2 $100 each in cradles G sensors x2 $80 each Mines ECU for R32 RB26DETT $150 each. I have two. Suit exhaust, 14psi etc Std front pipes gtr. $100 Pair std turbos and dumps $300 RB20 turbo in pieces missing exhaust housing $50 R33 gtst Genuine JUN front bar $300

Have one in Melb. $50 with all the cooler and lines. No cheaper without them.

Will have to get some pic on the weekend. From the outside its just a gunmetal 32. Can get some underneath photos. Comps were about 165-170 on my tester with only the 5 psi variance. Very nice quite motor.

This car is very clean on the outside. Has a few blemishes on the inside interior, drivers bolster and a couple scuffs on the trims. Colour: Gunmetal Grey 90" model Features: 3.5 inch exhaust and 2.5inch front pipes. Has spare de-cat muffler not installed. Lowered springs Viper Alarm System Tinted windows Heavy Duty Excedy Clutch - Very nice to drive and still 85% with lightened flywheel. Nismo 17x9 +18 LMGT2 rims. Look tough New front rotors Drilled rear rotors Pioneer cd player. N1 front bar inserts and bonnet lip. Custom inserts in the door and rear trims $11000 Can do it for $750 less minus wheels and you supply your own. It has been sitting in my yard now for a long time as I bought a cheap girly car to drive to work for the last 6 months. The rego has since expired. It has good oil pressure and comp on all cylinders but the rear o2 sensor has died so it runs a little rich on the rear cylinders. No bad noises. I contrated all last year without paying tax so I would like the car sold to make the tax bill a little nicer but I'm not to desperate as I have the cash already sitting there. Would rather talk over the phone than internet. Gareth 0417370869 South of Melb No wanker offers please. You know who you are!! Be realistic

I have some in the shed. Brand new and never used. Still in primer. $120

Mirror in burgandy-redish colour. I can check the fold motor but I could almost guarantee it will work. The ecu's are a direct plug in so no need to mess around with looms. The price I'm asking is reasonable since its the same price as std ecu's but mine are modified.

I've decided to keep the exhaust for the moment as its going to chop it up to go on my turbo diesel landcruiser. Will contact you Sheriff about the pump tomorrow arvo around 6. All of the ecu's advertised have custom chips from mines and blitz using the factory ecu as a base. Altered fuel, timing and speed cut and rev limits normally. The stock ecu's have the speed cut and aren't tuned for bigger exhaust and a bit more boost. All still have the stickers and plates on them. They were all removed from 440cc inj, std afm cars with exhausts. I haven't had them on the dyno's as I upgraded to -5's so went a/m ecu but I have had them in cars and they all work fine.

I only need the drivers side so you can have the passenger one.

Michael I believe you should have started this thread like your g/box thread. For example - How would this occur? and show the pics I like the comment on making it out of balance. Made me smile I'm with all the others looks like bad spalling to me from a loose balancer. I also don't see the problem with it and would be happy to re-use an item like that if the diametre is still within tolerance and the keyway isn't flogged out. I'd be more worried about the diametre of the shaft and keyway width over the pitting if the balancer was loose. It wouldn't matters if the engine is std or modified as it spins at the same speeds and forces and it is unlikely to crack since the bolt protrodes further into the crank than the damage and the balancer is is also held by the bolt(sandwiched). If it was damaged on removal by tools it would have sharp edges from the tools. I've used many a dodge tool removing tight balancers in my shed and you would have to be a real butcher to impact damage a crank in that location. If they had managed to get it far enough out to impact that area it could have been easily tapped off lightly with a hammer. Are you unreasonable? I believe your are with the statements you have made. You have no facts linking the type of damage on the crank to the allegations being made. Your lack of knowledge in the area being discussed shows a little. If the balance wasn't loose when you stripped the motor you have nothing to blame the person who changed the balancer as it didn't make your engine shit itself. They made a profesional decision to leave it and thats why you pay them. You said you would have replaced the crank at the time but the pump would have still shit itself and most likely damaged your new crank so they did you a favour and saved your soon to be new crank. Also if you were going to replace the crank back then why is it such a big drama now? Just change it if thats what you want to do. I will quote one of your recent comments to another user "please dont post your opinion as a clear fact as it can mislead people".

If its a bolt in cage why not spend 30 mins and remove it to get the sticker cleared? Then look into getting it engineered.

I'm just around the corner in Seaford. I'll take them off your hands. Pm me your ph no and I'll give you a call and orgainse to come around and get them. My drivers side has broken mounts and I've been to lazy to replace it but I have no excuse now.

I have some Nismo LM GT2 rims 17x9 +17 offset. Let me know if your interested and I'll come up with a price. Their just sitting around my house in Melb. Would prob look tough.

I have a head. Do you mean bare as in no valves etc. I can do one without manifolds and covers but with cams, valves etc as they are no good to me on there own. Never machined or ported. Won't strip down further $800

Hankook evo S1. They have copped a hammering and still look good. They have started to go hard but their not to bad for a few years old worth of driving (excluding the time the car has sat in the shed recently) and the amount of heat cylces they have been through. I'll still use them until their dead. I would recommend them for the price. Not the cheapest or most expensive but they have lasted.