Rowdyr32

I've run 1.23's Sandown and 1.52 at PI with 280rwkw on hankook streets and have done about 4 or more track days with heaps of laps and a couple deca's and there still 80% left. You might have scored a dud set of tyres. Where had they blistered in just one session? You should have no problems running steets. I would be confident with a low 1.22 at Sandown and a 1.50 at PI on street with under 300rwkw if I had more experience and some good pads. Still got std $30 pads in the rear not helping me. Russ whats up with the car. Hope its not to bad! Nice work by Newton. Good to here its getting close to the times its built for.

In Seaford at my house. 40 minutes South of Melb.

bump

Have one you can have for $50 inc postage.

RB26DETT head removed from engine with cracked ring land. Bought another engine before disassembling the this motor. Head with plenum etc in fuel rail. No injectors or covers but everything else it there. All in good condition. $1100 RB26DETT block that has been decked and acid dipped. Includes cradle. Found to have a crack between water jacket hole and a head bolt hole. Didn't suit the needs of the guys I sold it to and he was aiming for massive hp so I took it back. His engine builder said it would still be good for a std or mild build. $100 RB26DETT oil pump $80 RB26DETT oil squirters $50 R32 GTR fuel pump in cradle $80 Twin Turbo pipe - From turbo's to intercooler pipe $100 R32 3inch exhaust with seperate de-cat pipe. Has centre muffler, no rear muffler, just straight throught to out back $100 R32 GTR fuel cap $50 R32 dash pad bare with small bubble $50 R32 GTR ABS mater cylinder $100 R32 GTR G-Sensor $100 All ECU's below suit std injectors and turbos 2x Mines ECU's for R32 GTR $150 each Blitz ECU for R32 GTR $150 New R/H sill panel $100 Suit GTR/GTST R/H tail light $30 R/H mirror $25 2X 265/35/18 RE55 tyres - Suit a track day or drift $50 R32 rear bumper support $80 R33 GTR lowered rear springs $50 Frankston. Can post. Please no time wasters. You know who you are!

I have a std bore block with a crack between the head bolt thread and a water jacket. Would be fine for any mild builds. Only removed due to a crasked 6th ring land but bores are still fine and it has been decked and acid dipped. $100 Bought another engine before I stripped it.

Have you made sure you haven't blown a hose off or split one. It won't boost if you have as it won't get the flow through the afm to get the fuel to make boost? R33's run off the map sensor aswell so it might be a possibility? If you shake/hit the exhaust you will hear the exhaust wheel in the cat if you still have a cat in.

If you speak to Gadg or Ant...? They both only really have shocks and springs in their cars. Gadg has run a 1.48 and Ant has done a 1.49 both at PI in mid 250rwkw r33 gtr's with factory brembo's. Ants car only has springs if I'm correct. As you said Nick swaybars can make massive diferences and are easily adjusted to make small changes. Softer springs will make the car a lot more snappy when you start to loose it and back off and could possibly bite you but once you learn the limits its good to drive but won't change direction as quick. You should also speak to Scotsman. He has a more sprint/track setup car and doesn't have to many big $ parts in it suspension wise if I'm correct. He runs swaybars and 7and 5 kg/mm springs as well. From what I have heard Benno doesn't like to setup with swaybars and prefers higher spring rates. I just read that BB GTR's car has 650lbin springs in his car. I think 7kgmm springs are 400lbin so it shows the difference in how different people setup cars. I'm going to send Duncan an email soon as he seams to have a very well setup track car and find out what specs he is running and I'll shoot you a pm with some info Giant shared with me a few years ago. A small email with some great knowledge from a proven car about suspension setup in their car. I was really glad they took the time to shared it with me.

Good to see you got it done. I use anything that has enough leverage that fits in the gap. Once they get that hard its worth overhauling them that only takes a few hours. Just involves poping the pistons out. Cleaning everything and putting them back together. It wil also help your brakes run cooler as the pads aren't stuck out contactiong the disk. Only costs about $70.

Just maybe try puting 7kgmm front springs in the front and 5kgmm springs in the rears. A few quickish all round car run this in 32 and 33 gtr's. Backing the dampening off might not help though if you go from a shock setup for 12kgmm springs and you put in 5's but you can't lose really giving it a go and it might work good enough? Ask around a bit more. Springs are rediculously cheap and an easy alternative to spending a fortune that you probably might not need to. I read that you were interested in building a kit car so changing a set of springs is easily done in a morning and would be good to help you learn about how to setup a car as you develope it. Also depends if you want a mainly road/track car or a track/road car setup. Sounds like you want the first option so massive $ suspension setup wouldn't be worth it to save a poofteenth on the track. All gtr's are is cheque book racing machines. Its all been done before so its good to see your doing your research. Saves waisting your cash. I thing I cannot undestand is how workshops can adjust the suspension in customers cars when they don't come and observe their driving styles or have anything on record (datalogging) apart from the customers comments on how it handles. Sometimes it might be the driver driving the car wrong not the suspension thats incorrectly setup. So the car is adjusted to the driver not the drive to the suspension so the car wil never reach its full potential. There are enough cars and people out there who have done it before you can gain info off to get a good suspension setup but to finetune it to its full potential is a different thing. I was speaking to the team owner at Glenfords about their V8 supercarcar a the F1 a few years ago and it was great to listen to how they were struggling with exit corner speed and trying to making the car slide and how they were trying to rectify it. Changing just one thing effects the the whole setup of the car through the rest of the corner. Its a fine balancing act and something I have never ever heard anybody at club track days ever mention or go into depth about and understand it to any great degree. I definantly don't get it but normally you can usualy research and ask enough questions to find how you can attempt to improve it. Just something to think about. Sometimes you don't need to spend big $ to get the improvement your after. The more expensive the car the less likely your going to push it as hard. The less you push it and the slower the time and more expensive it is to fix if something happens to break.

If your silly enough to plumb the bov or some part of the presurized side of the inlet into the breather port if I remeber right causing the dip stick to blow out and pump oil out of the sump everywhere you are the only one to blame. The DT had nothing to do with it. You didn't set a real good impression the first track day you came to with your cars problem and mates drinking alcohol in the pit area. Just take it a bit easy on here. You don't really know anybody or know the sport yet. Their all good guys and its a tight little club. Some guys know a fair bit if you ask the right people and questions. Some guys also talk shit. You'll work it out easily enough. If you decide track is the go then your opinion on mods and the skill level involed in improving your time will dramatically change over your next few track days. If you did your fastest time you could do the first time out then the would be no challenge and there would be no need to go come back again because it would be boring in my opinion. I've binned a gtr being young and silly at Sandown going hard to early in the day. Been there and done that and its not that fun afterwards.

Bump

Have a air con fan I can do for $50 posted.

After the inlet pipe from the rear afm to the rear turbo. Must be in VGC. Reason I need a new one is the old one was melted onto the turbo. If you have one let me know along with a price and location. Cheers

Its the best mod you can do for a 32 gtst and its easy. Did it myself and trust me don't believe the rubbish people will talk about how to make it fit with custom sumps and mounts etc. Its a piece of piss. Just keep the old motor so you can swap it back to sell it and it will only cost you the depriciation of the motor. By far the most fun car I have ever driven. Could easy do it over a weekend plus a few nights with a few guys.

Found a gtr fuel pump aswell $100

Radiator sold.

I thought I had sold all my left over gear but a quick look though the shed showed it not to be. Tein Springs - Unknown rates $50 set R/H Tail light $30 R/H Mirror $30 R/H Sill panel brand new $80 R/H door with a few dings and motor, no glass $30 Rear bumper support/reo $80 Radiator $40 fit gtr and gtst Rb26dett block with cradle. Small crack between 2 head bolt holes. Would be fine for a std or mild motor. Original bores and has been freshly decked $200 Only removed due to cracked piston ring land. Set of gtr interior door and rear trim bits inc head lining $100 A few nicks and scrathes but not to bad. G sensor $60 A couple chipped GTR ecu's $125 each to suit the usual lights mods Blitz turbo timer $50 HKS VPC $300 Gtst wing $10 GTR petrol tank with hangers and filler. A small leak in the seam about 5 cm long. Might be able to fix it with a soldering iron. $30 R33 Gtst genuine Jun front bar $400 Not a cheap Aus copy If you intend to mess me around please don't waste my time. I'm not an internet nerd so therefore don't get on the net every minute of the day so responses might take a couple days. Please don't send multiple pm's. 40 minutes south of city.

Most agents are scum! I got told this by a real estate agent as I know I got f'd by mine. I put an offer. He couldn't contact the owner at the time and claimed he had to wait to speak to the other interested party. This was on a sat arvo. One of dads mates said they have to contact the owner with every offer asap. I called to tell him that a few hours later and he said he had contacted the owner and it had been rejected even though it was going to happen monday. I offered the asking price and he said he couldn't do it until he contacted the other interested party on monday. Then he called back 15 minutes later saying I could have it. I know he never contacted the owner with the original offer but didn't know what to do as I had paid a substantial amount more than the original offer but the house was well worth it. One of dads mate who's an agent and also buys houses for people told me a few things to stop them ripping you off. Might help you a little. What I have been told to do when putting in offers is when you put the offer in put it in as a one off offer and if it is rejected by the owner the offer is withdrawn. This means they cannot use you as a bartering tool with other parties and mess you around. Don't act to keen on it. If they call get them to put the phone on speaker while your there at the desk with them to hear the conversation with the owner. He also said as he's in the trade that if your offer is accepted go with the real estate agent straight away to get the papers signed by the owner as they are slimey and will shaft you if they get a better offer later. Good luck Al as I hated dealing with them.

I have a set of gears in vic. Can send them if you want $80

Go Aviation in helicopeters. CLEANER and way better payed than working on cars and is a way more respected trade. People see car mechanics as just mechanics where as in aviation you work to such a tight quality control and close tolerances that you can branch off into any mechanical trade after you finish due to the quality of training you recieve and the respect people give the trade because if you f up somebody dies and takes a $500k to over $3million plus helicopter with them. So much to learn compered to automotive. If you want to see how simple cars are buy one. Pull it down and rebuild the engine and g/box with a manual and thats it. Its all the same. There is nothing to cars and I don't see how people don't get bored working on them. Being a mechanic is more about learning how things work, diagnosing it and remembering it I believe. The more diverse the the area of mechanicals you work on the more you learn so you stay interested. Avaition has piston engines (carby and injected), gas turbines (mech governed and electronically), hydraulics, gearbox's, avionics, sheetmetal and fibreglass fabrication and lots more. It like being a panel beater, auto elect, mechanic, gearbox rebuilder, hydraulic specialist, NDT inspector and office worker plus more all in one job. Something to think about. Also diesel is shit to work with since you stink no matter what you do. I've been there and hated it. Also worked for DSI as head dyno operator and hated it working with automatic transmissions.

I have one thats in an extra injector pipe on my car. I haven't used it but if you want to give it a go $50.

Have one you can have for $60 plus postage

Still have it Chad.