Rowdyr32

Sorry for the late pm's. I got sent last minute to Darwin early Friday morning and just got back.

Oil pump sold pending payment.

Having a huge cleanout of 32 GTR parts. I have got rid of a fair bit of stuff but I still have a little left over. All parts are in Melb. Frieght at buyer expense. I will get sizes and weight for you but you have to price the freight up and I will confirm it once you actually want it. Gauges and Electronics Apexi Electronic Oil pressure and Exhaust temp gauges and senders with max warning $300 pair HKS Vein Pressure Controller - Very Rare and wanted. Deletes the need for afm's and can control fuel rates $500 Comes with looms and sensors HKS Turbo timer $80 plugs straight into dash loom Blitz and Mines ECU's x2 $100 each Wheels Nismo LMTG2 rims 17*9 with 16 offset. Perfect for a 32 gtr. 2 very good tyres, 2 unroadworthy. They have a few scuffs on the rims. $1250 Set R32 GTR rims 16*8 with unroadworthy tyres. A couple gutter rashes. $500 Set 265/35/18 semi comps. Bought off Racepace secondhand and I never used them. Still a couple trackdays in them $100 Engine/Drivetrain Rear drive shafts $150 Good boots Blitz external venting BOV's $175 pair with std gtr pipe to mount on. 3 GTR radiators $80 each Same as gtst. Fuel tank with hangers/pump/sender/filler neck $200 Stop serging on your gtst as the pump is mounted a lot better. GTR fuel pumps x2 $100 each RB26dett crank, oil pump, rods, plus all the other parts associated with crack from 32 $400 Removed form engine that had a cracked ring. Sold head and block. Suspension/Brakes Tein HA height and damper shocks and springs $500 STD shocks with aftermarket springs $200 Pair machined 324mm rotors $150 Tein springs. Suit drift car $100 Very stiff. 324mm slotted disks-new, spacer kit to run 324mm disks and overhauled calipers and braided lines with heaps of set used performance pads Upgrading to big 355mm brembo's. Best upgrade you can do without spending thousands of dollars. Almost as good as GTR brembos. Same pad width just looses 5mm on height at the bottom. No brake fade running 1.23 at Sandown and 1.52 and PI or 20 min sessions running 1.10's at Wakefield with a few laps to cool engine oil down in the middle. Will fit R32 gtst, gtr and R33 gtst $650 Interior Dash boards. Small boubles in front of passenger $40 each 2 sets nissan floor mats $80 each GTR interior trims. A few small scuffs $150 Body LH door window w/tint $40 GTR fuel cap door $50 Rear Bumper reo $60 RH door $30 bare Big duel element aluminium wing $100 Please don't ask for other stuff as this all I have. No swaps either or low ballers. I won't get back to you if you offer stupid prices. Will budge on some stuff but no others. If you know what it looks like please don't ask for pics for silly things.

Head is SOLD Block is SOLD Shell is SOLD Still have all the blocks accesories inc crank.

SOLD

I have these. 324mm slotted disks-new, spacer kit to run 324mm disks and overhauled calipers and braided lines with heaps of set used performance pads Upgrading to big 355mm brembo's. Best upgrade you can do without spending thousands of dollars. Almost as good as GTR brembos. Same pad width just looses 5mm on height at the bottom. No brake fade running 1.23 at Sandown and 1.52 and PI or 20 min sessions running 1.10's at Wakefield with a few laps to cool engine oil down in the middle. Will fit R32 gtst, gtr and R33 gtst $650

I have a pair of Blitz external bov's. $180

Why can't this car be rego'd in Japan??

Just piss it off. I have run off the track a few times because I have forgotten to remove the abs fuse so I just leave it out now. The R32 abs reacts so slow. You try and modulate the pedal but it doesn't turn off and it doesn't stop you either. Its useless. Just full the fuse in the engine bay to disengage it. If it doesn't help you stop quicker on the track or on a slippery skid pan it not going to help on the road (wet or dry). You can run a gtst non abs master cyl and lines to remove it completely. For the comment I know where the threshhold is I think you are touching yourself a little. Different road grip and smoothness of the road effects how hard you can brake. If you can't hear and feel the wheels starting to lock up occasionally combined with modulating the pedal your not pushing hard enough is my opinion with a 32.

If you want the best way. Get some std ones and copy them in thin fibreglass. Won't damage your car when they fall off, will flex a little before breaking and cheap to make. Say $10 pair and 30 min work I have some here. Might have a go at copies. As Beer baron said they are hard to get in GC. Also made some castor rod deflectors out of cardboard as a mould and then fibreglassed over them. They work awesome and were a arvo's work. Cheap too.

SOLD

Injectors and Resistor Pack SOLD RB26DETT Rocker Covers SOLD LH Guard SOLD

I've used a supercheap vl commodore waterpump on a rb26 before so I don't know what your talking about?? Perfect fit. All RB series water pumps are probably the same. I think N1 water pumps are a little wank for a rb under 300rwkw. I've got a std radiator and pump with 280rwkw and the water gauge never moves in a 20 min track session.

I have a R32 gtr in bayside blue. Could sell it with a few goodies for that sort of cash. Pm me if interested. Its the car in my sig thing but would be stock looking at sale with 17's.

Just buy a water pump off nissan for $90. If they don't have it in stock they can get it in that afternoon. If you call a gates belt supplier you can probably get the belts alot cheaper. I think genuine nissan timing belts are only $110.

I've got a stock sump. I can midifiy it for you as I have done it before. $300

Jap warehouse was after a little more than I wanted to pay so anybody have one out there?

Bump. Also could people stop sending pm's about what is already sold. Have a read though the post first. If I could edit the first post I would but I can't.

I have had DOTARS give me import approval for a car imported under an unknown name. They issue a letter stating the car came in with approval ............ I haven't applied for the import approval letter. I have only spoken to them over the phone. I have no idea about which month it is or how long it has been here.

Just do what your were planning or 324mm rotors with spaced calipers as mentioned many times before. I have 280rwkw in a street gtr and the spaced calipers stops it fine. In a gts you wouldn't hardly have to use the brakes with a good susp setup. If your planning to spend $8k on susp and brakes. Just sell the gts and buy a gtr with a few mods for $15k and lap 10 seconds a lap faster than you ever will in the gts with all the mods in the world. Building a track gts is a waste of money IMO and so slow. So many better cars could be bought for the $ you plan on spending.

The shell isn't currently complied. Engine doesn't have the sensors. Don't know if I have the starter loom. Could sell the Nismo's to you for $1000 on your door. I know there worth a lot more but there just taking up room atm.

It is so cheap to buy parts for a R32 gtst. Why haven't you had a go fixing it yet. Have you done a ecu diagnostic check? Does it have spark? Do the injectors click when motored? Can't really see why you haven't fixed it yet as it is so easy to diagnose. Just spend 5 minutes on google and you will find out how to fix it. If you had autobarn fit the alarm that might be the problem also.

Depends on price. I know heaps of them go to the tip as leftovers. I won't pay something stupid. Let me know.

Buy a new one.As above I paid $600 ish. I used to have the shell your looking at the guard on and it is kinked. Buy the time the panel beater cleans it up you may have well bought new. There should be one in stock with nissan in aus you can get straight away.

Still available Geoff.