Rowdyr32

Ferni Oosh was feely right. For under 10g for a gtr I couldn't really let it go. Expecially once I part it out a little. Just to confirm I'm going.

Just bought a car and need the de-reg papers if they exist from Japan. Car is already here since 2003. Is there somebody I can contact to do it from here or can I just turn up and get them in Japan if I go to the right place. Any help appriciated.

Yeh I bought that one! Dam cheap and straight. Might just have to tie up Tash and drive the car into the lake in one piece like the guy on the weekend at Mordy. Now just need to mod it right but the 32 might have to go first.

Nice one Ant! Should be a good trip. Just bought a R33 gtr tonight so I'll have to see if I can get it ready for the trip if not the trusty 32 will be there. If I can or can't get the 33 registered it will be my new track whore. When did you hit a fence Saff????

Cheers!!!

Mate could I please have the detail for this : BCNR33024233

If I get my track car this week all of this is for sale as a complete kit out of my R32 GTR Circuit valved Bilstien shocks by Sydneykid with coilover kit. Out of one of the Production cars SK sets up. They upgraded to DMS(Big $) Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars with extra adjustment holes added and bushes. Cusco fixed bearing upper front arms 3.5degree neg. Cusco rear adjustable upper arms with sepherical bearings. Tein adjustable castor rods with sepherical bearings. Cusco front and rear strut braces. I'm buying a track car if the sale goes through this week so I will be selling this as a kit because I can put the stock suspension bake in to the car to make a cheaper sale price. Thats the reason for sale. I had Tien shocks in my car with the cusco links and the car was alway a handful to drive. Wouldn't tip in and would always oversteer on exit. With the shocks and swaybars I cut about 4 seconds a lap off my times. To give you an idea my car in full roads gear on normal road (280utag) tyres. Couldn't afford to run semi's. It does PI in a 1.52.2 and Sandown 1.23.9 there is easily another 1.5 seconds in both of these track with a little more practice and better brake setup. Still running stock pads in the rear and shit EBC pads front. The car only has 280rwkw. The car is really balanced at the moment and never unpredicable. Slightly understeers through corners and can be made to oversteer if more power is feed on or trail braked. Very safe on the track. No chance of going off unless you do something very wrong. Put some semi comps on and some better pads and see what your can really do in your car. They say semi comps are worth 3-4 seconds a lap over road tyres. The car has also done very well and the DECA/motorcana days when I'm not hitting cones. Almost matching the big $ cars with more experience. Looking for $2600 for the whole kit and can help install it if your in Melbourne. It will be the best money you've ever spent. Gareth 0417370869

Nice one brothers. Great to see the SAU level of talent growing each year. Its also good to see all of the time and practice you've put into your yourselves and the development into your cars pay off. Congrates to all of you.

Got my leave approved. I'm in!! shit yeh.

Budge who can I speak to about my wheel protrusion issue before I enter. I emailed Lyn before Winton but recieved no reply.

Rob I don't think you can run slicks without a CAMS cage.

Still hadn't recieved a reply from the WRX club yesterday so I'm out. Thanks for the offer Ray but I might wait. I'll try contacting cams to get a clarification on the rules. The way they word it in the cams manual is very vague. Missing this also gives me a little extra spare cash for the NWS excusion if I can get the time off. Good luck everybody!

Don't know if I can do it yet. It really depends if WRX club reply to my email in time to accept my car with the rear wheels protruding a couple mm at the top.

Should we have a bet on the amount of pikers now?

Have a look at the voltage gauge in the centre dash. When running the car it should sit on around 13.5 volts. Maybe its the alternator not charging the battery like you thought.

Great day messing around out the with Daz on his tidy Z1000. Didn't really get time to talk to many of you during the day. I did over 35kms. Russ the best I managed was a 10.77 with towards the end lots of 10.8s. Couldn't keep the wheel down in 1st and with 30000kms on it I was happy since the new zx10 only managed a 10.66. It was a lot more fun than I thought. Guess it was having no worries.

Spoke to Heathcote today. Bringing the bike there.

I found this in Wikipedia as well. It is possible for a fuel to have a RON greater than 100, because isooctane is not the most knock-resistant substance available. Racing fuels, straight ethanol, AvGas and liquified petroleum gas (LPG) typically have octane ratings of 110 or significantly higher - ethanol's RON is 129 (MON 102, AKI 116). Typical "octane booster" additives include tetra-ethyl lead and toluene. Tetra-ethyl lead is easily decomposed to its component radicals, which react with the radicals from the fuel and oxygen that would start the combustion, thereby delaying ignition. This is why leaded gasoline has a higher octane rating than unleaded. Don't hang me on the BTU rating but: You stated that Avgas made less power why is this? I need facts. As for Toluene I found it has a octane rating of 114. I have 20 litres at work and I know Snowy was put it in his car a while ago. Its commonly used as a knock deterent as far as I know.

2rismo after all this you are confirming what I said in the first place. I'm in this for a discussion/learn. The mixture known as gasoline, when used in high compression internal combustion engines, has a tendency to ignite early (pre-ignition or detonation) causing a damaging "engine knocking" (also called "pinging" or "pinking") noise. The discovery that lead additives modified this behavior led to the widespread adoption of the practice in the 1920s and therefore more powerful higher compression engines. The most popular additive was tetra-ethyl lead. Lead is also a good lubricant for valves which prolongs engine life and the avgas around now is 100ll which is low lead with anti knock additives added. Avgas also burns slower due to if having to stay as a liquid at high altitudes. I couldn't find their BTU ratings though. This might have a little to do with it. It might seem odd that fuels with higher octane ratings explode less easily, yet are popularly thought of as more powerful. The misunderstanding is caused by confusing the ability of the fuel to resist compression detonation as opposed to the ability of the fuel to burn (combustion). However, premium grades of petrol often contain more energy per litre due to the composition of the fuel as well as increased octane. What is the go with the octane rating vs octane number I don't know. Marine diesel or Jet A-1 could be better

Obviously their not the same but are the same octane rating. He doesn't run avgas in it at the moment so there is no need to run it and their not really completely separate animals.

I agree with Beer Baron. I work at Moorabin Airport and can get some for you but you may aswell just run V racing at 100 octane because thats all avgas is. If you want to go faster you'd be better off just pullling the rear seats out and not worrying about the avgas. That about all you'll notice. Nothing. There used to be a few different types of avgas but 100 is all you can get these days easily/common. Avgas is just wank that people think it gives them heaps more power but its just in their mind compared to 98 octane or v racing.

What a fantastic day. The car felt really good once I got the feel of it again and knocked 3 thenths of my last time. Had a few issues with the car having some blow by clogging up my afms which had the same effect of a cooler pipe blowing off which ended 2 sessions early. It has also done an exhaust gasket somewhere in the line which dropped the performance a little but it still went ok. I gained so much more confidence with the car carrying more corner speed though the back section and turn one but by the last sprints they had turned the timers off so don't know if it was faster. Most of it was found when the pads failed to grip as much as I would like. There was no fade but it also wouldn't lock the brakes as hard as I tried. Ray if you want to arrange something let me know. I would love to have a go with some sticky tyres since mine are rated at 280 and re55's are 40 so there is a heap more corner speed and braking available. Well done to everybody. I had some great fun when there was about 4 of us racing around together for a few laps even though I was scared of going up the back of John. Alan I'll start a new topic soon on cornering. It would be good if we could get a picture/drawing of the track and everybody could draw and explain the different lines they take at Sandown. There is a lot we could still learn from each other. Just one good point I believe would make it wothwhile.

Hmmm. Its kind of annoying knowing theres a track day coming up some times. I know how the car went last time and I don't think I can beat it atm but I really want a 1.23. It just sits on my mind until the day but can't wait. Should be fun! Bris. Don't fix the body work. Just make it go faster. Isn't that your first priority? Be a real race car driver There's a 1.20 in it isn't there with good tyres, brakes and no traffic?

They are exactly 100% the same R32 gtr/gtst and I think they are the same as rb25 series 1 aswell. I know from experience.

Thanks Ash. I'll have to drop in and speak to them. Thats a really affordable price.