Rowdyr32

I did the rb26 to a 32gtst. Simple cut the diff off the side, change to the gtst engine mounts and bolt it in. Wiring loom plugs straight in. That it for a r32 but a 33 might be different. Wave all the info from the talkers to one side. And lisen to the do'ers on the other. Why build a 25/30 when you still don't get solid lifters, you get smaller cams and smaller injectors that you would get bigger with a 26. It will cost you a fortune to build it not to mention the time and hassles. Go the 26's are built to rev and they love it. The old gtst used to launch from still with 255's on the rear in second gear. Why would you bother rebuilding the motor when you get it. Just use it. See if you like how hard the car goes and base your future mods from there. Why waste money if you don't have to. Also the comment on front cuts being from track cars is a bit b/s##t. Most front cuts that come over are almost all stock. Not race motors with bigger turbos/ forged internals/ cams etc. Also 26's aren't to laggy with the new turbos out now. This is my opinion from experience but its your call. All I know is there are to many people out there that get caught in the hype!

People don't know what their talking about mate. As long as the rolling diametres of the tyres are the same attessa is ok. As for if they fit I have 18x10s with r33/34 offset and the fronts are fine but the rears require the gaurds to be rolled. Don't think your rears will fit. I'll find my offest for you later.

Last of all my parts. Make a close offer and it might be yours. Will frieght at buyer expense. I'n melb Cibie super oscars driving lights- Pair spot beam $220 Driver side brand new sill $200 obo GTR turbos in EC $400 with actuators After market rice style dual element wing $100 aluminium with 2 struts Blitz Access ECU for R32 GTR $200 suit standard injectors/afm's Glass L/H R32 coupe Door with dodgy tint $15 R/h mirror $40 Pair r32 gtr rims SOLD Set of s15 rims with semi's in VGC $450 Rear R32 gtst wing Gunmetal in EC $80

Will the federals put the users into modified class?

I'm will to seperate. Pm sent

I've been trying to drive smoother recently. Wakefield isn't a good example as the cars wheel alignment was all over the place and the car understeered really badly on entry that day. I bought a Jaycar fuel adjuster kit today because I already have the hand controller built for a previous kit. I'll see how it goes as an $80 tsc. It should be better than nothing and its adjustable. I'm always after the cheapest way out. I'm also going to bleed the attessa again and see if the tank doesn't drop as much. Would it help if there was a slight voltage +/-? on the for/aft g sensors to try and replicate what a r33 gtr has to the front wheels which could be switched on for track days to limit tranfer case wear. It would be great if somebody could do a presure test on the line of a r33 gtr to see if the system is slightly pressurised in normal operation. This might make the operation quicker since it wouldn't be compressing as much uncompressed fluid. Opinions?

I bought these to get my gtr through compliance and then changed them for 18's. The tyres are Bridgestone Potenza 225/50/16 RE540S fitted to stock S15 rims in near perfect condition. No gutter rash on any rims. They have about 70% tread on all four but two have some camber wear but would still have a few trackdays left in the camber worn tyres. Tyres alone are over $1200 new and the rims sell for $300 secondhand. Also I have a pair of R32 GTR rims to so with them painted white which can go with the set or will seperate for $200 After $675 lot. Six rims and 4 tyres. I need these gone asap. No silly offers. Gareth 0417370869 Please call beacuse I don't have internet at home yet. Melbourne Will frieght at buyer expense Below are pics - 3rd, 4th, all four, 1st, 2nd as seen in the all photo from left to right. 1st tyre has slight camber wear with good tread 2st tyre has slight camber wear with good tread 3st tyre is almost brand new 4st tyre has slight alot more wear than I thought but tyre 3 evens it out

I have the new type of UAS spacer that I bought on the VIC trip to NSW for 324mm rotors on a 32gtr. I'm going to have a go at installing them this w/e for Calder in a few weeks. I'll let you know how they go. They are really cheap for what you get. Now I'm a bit worried about how easily they'll go on as as he said they were a straight fit and they had spent a lot of time to get it right. Hope you don't have the same batch as mine.

Thanks for the responses. How far does the oil drop in the tank in the boot in some of your cars when the ignition is turned on for the first time in the day? From memory mine drops about 10mm. The amount it drops could be an indication of any air in the system or that I have the wrong type of oil and it is being compressed to much and maybe I need a less compressable oil for better response?

It has the recommended Castrol Transmax Z in it. Also I posted new topic in the other section. Thanks.

I've done a few track days in this car now and I'm still finding the Attessa is really slow in engaging. Around corners it won't really engage and whilest going straight it seems to take a while. If I go over a speed hump the torque gauge goes up and just sits there if I'm doing a constant speed until I change my driving? Do all r32 gtr's when you launch take about 1/2 second to engage? Is there a pressure that the pump should apply that I could check with a pressure gauge on the bleed nipple? It has been bled properly. Does the torque gauge read pressure in the line or is it what the Attessa computer thinks its sending? This car has never had the 4wd working right. I put abs in the car as it never had it installed but it didn't really help much. It is now really starting to give me the shits. I sold the gtst and bought the gtr so I could go faster on the track I have done everything to it now to get it sorted apart from this issue? The transfer case should be good considering it worked in the other car and does lockup tight in this one eventually. I don't really know how other 32's handle because I haven't been in any others and I'm trying no to buy a TSC until I get it a little better or is this how the 32 gtr's handle? Any ideas? I need help.

I've done a few track days in this car now and I'm still finding the Attessa is really slow in engaging. Around corners it won't really engage and whilest going straight it seems to take a while. If I go over a speed hump the tourge gauge goes up and just sits there if I'm doing a constant speed until I change my driving? Is there a pressure that the pump should apply that I could check with a pressure gauge on the bleed nipple? It has been bled properly. Does the torque gauge read pressure in the line or is it what the Attessa computer thinks its sending? Also I did smash this car and is there any chance of the g sensor being damaged even though it is still white? I'm may have even swapped it from the other good gtr I had? Can't remember. This car has never had the 4wd working right. I put abs in the car as it never had it installed but it didn't really help much. It is now really starting to give me the shits. I sold the gtst and bought the gtr so I could go faster on the track I have done everything to it now to get it sorted apart from this issue? The transfer case should be good considering it worked in the other car. Any ideas? I need help.

Thanks for the votes to all that gave them. Sorry Ferni. Really what needs an award is the special thanks that Al gave (I'm to shy but would have loved to have given it) to all of the people behind the scenes at SAU that we know and some of us don't that but put on such fabulous events that nobody could fault. You are the people that let most of us still have a licence and we get to meet a similar crowd with a similar age group with great personalities that couldn't be found anywhere else. Give yourselves a pat on the back from me expecially!

Sorry Geoff it was late. What sort of event will we be doing there Ash? Will it be limited to driver training or can timed events be run?

I still have mine available. I'm heading up to SA after new years. Interested?

I was just looking through Youtube and found this video. It mentions that they are the first private track day there with cars. I thought it was a bike only tack but somebody must have caved in. Also looks like Jarrod and .....? where there. This happened on the 11 dec 06. What was the out come of the day and is there any possibility of us organising a day there? It looks like a fun track! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiDbhr2vjzI&NR

Very nice!

Going to try to make everything on for the track next year. It should help having a garage finally. Where can we have a look to see what class regs are? I'm hoping to run 4wd standard if possible. Also can I go in with any other car clubs for other track days or do you need to be affiliated? I would really like to have a few goes at PI during the year if possible. Calander of events looks great. Can't wait!

I might be interested in the smashed cf bonnet for another track bonnet. Is it only unrepairable due to labour expenses or is it nackered? Do you have pics?

I would have really liked to make it back there to see how the car goes now it handles better but I have settlement that w/e. It was nice to drive a track that was more technical than others and also how layed back the day was. Oh well next time I'll be there! Recommended to anybody thinking about it.

I've done this a few times now and can get one out in about 1.5 hours if it has been pulled out recently. The first thing you should do is borrow an air compressor and then go and by a supercheap air rachet for around $40. This will become your best friend. This will save you cutting up hands and about 2 hours! A couple jacks. You'll need a stubby 14mm spanner for the starter motor. Its easy to access with one of these. You may possibly need an allen key that fits a 1/2 inch breaker bar to undo the tail shaft. These can be really tight. For the top bolts you don't need to jack the engine as most people say. Just by undoing the rear crossmember your can get in there with extensions and a socket. Also if I remember right you can reach across the top of the g/box from the passenger side by hand to undo the drivers side bolt once its cracked. Remember though to leave some bolts in the bottom of the bell housing to stop the g/box sliding off. Leave the rear crossmember bolted to the g/box to stop it spining around on removal. One thing to remember is that the transfer case is seperate to the g/box and they use different oils. Also for a cheap and easy clutch aligning tool you can use a pen with sticky tape wrapped around it if your desperate. I've always done this and had no problems. Hope this helps. I have done this many times by myself. Just be carefull.

Yeh I was the one who binned the 32 gtr. As Roy said most of it is yourself. I only had a couple hours sleep that night and I wasn't all there at the track and being myself I drive a little chaotic. A little brain fade in a car I owned for 3 weeks with shit tyres and suspension and that was what happened. Oh well the car came back better and is still being abused at track days. Just look at my sig for an example. This is the car now

Lot of interest but no buyers as yet

Thats it Roy. All this guy wanted was some simple advise and peoples experiences.

I thought I must have hit that cone in the bottom of the carpark. I had no idea how I managed to hit it. I never saw it. I thought I must have just been a retard until I saw the pics in another post. If I cared more I could try harder to miss cones but DECA is way to much fun just mucking around! I'm guessing that it was Oosh but whoever it was I like it.