Rowdyr32

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...0_cam_RB26.html The poncams type a could be suitable for me. They should be good since I will be putting on n1 turbo's and I would rather a little lost off the top to get some more midrange. I'll send wade an email tonight. They said they cam get a little more lift and duration so we'll see what he says.

I just rang wade cams and they said that they can regrind them and they only charge $220 a pair, sounds ok to me. I am trying to find a page on the net that lists all the durations and lifts for all the gtr models. I have seen it before but can't find it now. I think zoom is a waste of time. Some of there tech artilces are full of **** if you read them properly. They said they couldn't tune a rb20 with 440c injectors but in the next paragragh they talk about how well the car could be tuned with 550cc injectors. Not to mention what they said you have to do to put a rb26 in a gtst was all rubbish.

I'll give you $450 for the oil cooler and come and pull it off myself if you are interested. Call me on 0417370869

Thats why I was asking. It would be a really cheap option if they can do it for a reasonable price. They can do if for most other cars so why not rb's. I'll call around on monday.

Does adding extra injectors at the inlet to the plenum starve any of the cylinders of fuel. I know I can go and buy a pfc and bigger injectors but I was wondering if I put a rb20 injector I have lying around at the inlet of the plenum and run it off a jaycar kit so when the other injectors start to max out the extra one can help out. If it only costs me $200 it is a lot cheaper than $2000 for any other fix.

How much extra lift is it possible to get out of stock rb26 cams by regrinding them and also being able to achive the right durations as well? I was thinking that if I was to change the cams with other ones the valve shimming needs to be changed so why not just get my cams reground. Have any of you had it done and what does it normally cost?

How stock do cars have to be under sevs. Suspension, exhausts etc.

How do you tell what trim wheels are in the turbo? What do the stock n1 wheels measure or is it the shape of the wheels? Some people have these turbos rated at 350-400hp. How do I know if mine have different wheels because there is no shaft play at all.

thanks guys I did a search as well and they are only r32 n1's but they have no shaft play so I'll put them on and see how they go. At what type of revs do they make boost and when do they reach full boost? At what power output will I max out the stock injectors. Also when I turn the car off the fuel pump stops but another pump goes for about 5 seconds. What is it?

I got some turbos that came with my car yesterday and they are r32 n1 turbos with 0.60 comp and a 0.64 rear housing. I was wondering if you guys know anything about them and there rated power? The comp is bigger than r34 n1 (0.42) turbos and they are rated at 500ps at 1.23 bar. They said that it had late model n1's but I don't know much about the different sizings and power ratings.

I want to get the car to my house first so I can swap over the wheels and a few other parts so I can clean them up whilst it is being engineered. Its just an 89 gtr with hks forged pistons and either r33 or 34 N1 turbos. Hopefully its a good street/ track package. Thanks for your input guys

I was wondering what I have to do to get my car out of the docks. It arrived on saturday so hopefully it clears customs by the end of the week. My importer said that they would organise to have my car delivered where ever I want but I want to know if any of you have gone and picked up the car yourselfs. One option is to get the car myself if I get temp reg.. How long does it take once I get there to actually drive away with the car. Or the other option is to try and get Jack to pick it up if he is isn't booked up so my front lip doesn't get trashed. Does anybody have his ph no? Can't wait to get it out on the track for a thrash!

If you speak to some people who don't drive silvias or are fan boys you might change your mind. I have heard some bad things about xtc (one a cutomers cars that they had crashed)but you seem to here bad thinks about most tuners so its up to you.

The car has everything working and is in good condition. It has only done 3 track days. You can get temp reg down here so you can drive unregistered cars.

If you gave me the money I'll send the car anywhere but I'm not paying for frieght Skitzo You need a rwc in Vic to put the rego in your name

Anyone interested in the car. It ran around phillip island in 1.57.27 with the 26 in it only making around 215rwkw on street tyres. So with the rb20 back in it it wouldn't be much slower. It was the quickest rwd skyline there on the day. The car also has 324mm front rotors on it now. Any offers?

Good luck if you can get the bolt undone. I used a 2 metre poll a hammer and some rachet straps to hold the balancer whilst it was in gear and the brakes were on and it was done up bloody tight. Read the manual to see what its done up to 270ft pounds or something like that.

Can you pm me your ph no so I can call you to discuss the engines.

It was breathing a fare bit the other weekend but now it has let go you'd have to be pissed. Getting a dyno run when it came over may have helped prolong the damage. Possibly a warning to others looking at doing track days. Mine is off the road with a blown rear turbo so I feel for you mate.

Worth the upgrade. With stock pads and some used r33 gtr rotors the car now pulls up heaps better. No brake fade around phillip island. Cheap at $100 for the conversion making my own brackets.

Ash mine are 17 by 9.5 with a 38 offset so they may be ok. At least the rears will fit. Need to check the front offset on my spare rim.

Good to hear oosh. Go the 32's. Now you've got the bug your car will never be in on piece ever again. I got the diagnostic code 34 this morning which I think is a knock sensor but on thight acceleration front afm reads 3volts and the rear reads .9volts. I hope it might be a dead afm. I read they can die in zoom mag. I'll swap them at lunch time.

I'll take it off your hands GTRdaz if your willing to COD. Pm me your ph no and I'll call you tomorrow.

No noises and it doesn't blow any smoke at all so I don't know. I'll try taking off the pipe though and compare flows. Good idea.

My car revs out fine but it won't make any boost. Havn't looked at it yet but do any of you have any ideas. It was after a thrashing at the drift night last night at calder. The back afm reads less voltage than the front one so I think it might be a blown turbo since the exhaust manifold and dump pipe were glowing red before hand.