Rowdyr32

Sydneykid: Thanks for some good solid info on it all, i'd be pretty happy with 220 rwkw (for now) so i guess i needn't do anything about my AFM, altho i've heard a lot of people say they'll crap out much earlier (like 180+ rwkw).

Okay so we have: * A few, maybe but hard to tune. * A flat out NO. * Been done/discussed already. Thank you. Looks like a trip to the library is in order. Tony said the R32 AFM = 70mm and Z32 = 80mm. As mentioned we don't expect to get away without a re-map of the chip, and that'd fix it. If the car is gettin x amount of air, but the ECU thinks it's getting less it wont be a problem so long as your map compensates for it. As mentioned earlier the idea is to run the bypass pipe from the airbox to after the AFM. This doesn't seem to make sense to me, NA cars still suck air, and how is two pipes going in to one (bypass and AFM) any different from two throttle bodies into one plenum? That works. How is that cheaper, buying an AFM, working out the outputs, making new electronics for some sort of interface. As opposed to a bit of pipe, a T piece, and a re-map? BOTH would still need a re-map as well ofcourse.

That's the most useful reply yet, we'll come back when we've got a little info, especially on flow dynamics.

But why, it's not sampling horsepower, it measures air. They both have a max output of 5V, i understand if a Z32 has a higher resolution, but that still doesn't invalidate our theory. It'd still work, maybe not as well, and since you've still got the stock ECU (just re-mapped) a higher sensor resolution wouldn't be usable anyway.

The flow rates in each pipe would be percentage based, depending on relative sizes and mouth properties (a bell mouth sucks better). Pick someones brains with knowledge about flow dynamics (so i'll have a chat to dad soon) and you should be able to work it out. And as i said before once you've mapped your ECU to it, all done! Edit: That's assuming you didn't get stooged, if they bolt staright up and no size difference, just what IS the difference between a RB20 and Z32 AFM?

So basically you don't know, and in T0nyGTSt 's post he says there's a 10mm difference in diameter (70mm vs 80mm), that equates to 30% more area. And just coz it aint been tried (to your knowledge) doesn't mean it doesn't work, how'd you think people find this stuff out in the first place? Edit: Added rant

Yeah you'd have to remap your chip, i thought that was obvious, sorry. But you have to remap it for a Z32 just as you would any other alteration to the airflow. But once you're tuned to the characteristics of a stocky with a bypass then they'd stay the same it'd be good from there would it not?

Thought of that too, but then you'd never get to the full 5V and the AFM would still be maxed out.

Me and a mate were talking and came up with this as a possibility, think about it before you say "no way", informed replies are what we're after! On to the idea. Okay the reason you add a Z32 AFM is to reach the full 5V on the sensor slower than the stock AFM, the Z32 does it slower because it has a larger diameter pipe and therefore less air passing over the hotwire cooling it down. So why not have a pipe bypassing the AFM from the airbox to anywhere before the turbo? The larger the pipe the higher percentage of air not going over the sensor, and fooling it in much the same way a boost controller affects the wastegate. So anyone out there tried this? Gotta be a damn site cheaper than ~$300 for a Z32 AFM. If we've absolutely missed something come tell us why it wouldn't work! - Rowdy & Oosh.

A quick question, how much machine has to be done to make the rb20 head fit a rb30 block as I want the standard look with less turbo lag, stacks of torque and around 200kw at the treads. I already have a spare rb20 det thats why i'm asking and I can get the machining for free.

I'd be in for a day at Calder.

Have the heads been pressure tested? Why are you selling them? Also would you sell one complete head with inlet and exhaust manifolds I want to do a RB30 convertion. I don't need the cam gears. How much would you want?

A guy at work machined out the centres of my steel gears and replaced them with adjustable alloy centres (which he made as well). They allow +/- 4 degrees adjustment and only cost me $17 for the materials and a slab for the labour. Guys go to a machining company with a design and all your standard gears in bulk and it will cost you **** all to get them modify. Why buy wanky brand name gear? It doesn't make your car go any faster and it costs a fortune.

I made all my piping myself and it only cost me $150 including hose. Also if you are doing it like the hks kit run the pipe out out the compressor behind the back of the radiator insted of the inlet pipe. Whats the point cooling air and then running it behind a 90 degree radiator. Think about it because some people don't.

During some hard driving last night my lsd has turned into a single spinner. Do I need to have it reshimmed or just change the oil? If I pull it out who should I take it to or is it an easy job to do myself? I live in southern melbourne.

I just bought a cam belt for my r32 for $97 at Brighton Nissan

FOUND THE PROBLEM (I hope) After I changed the cam belt I thought I wouldn't put the dust cover back on to see if the belt stayed tight. At the time I didn't know there were spacers in the cover to space out the crank angle sensor. I drove the car around the block and is stoped. Towed it home. Have been driving it around for about a week now and the above problems occured in the message above. Just checked the timing and it was really retarded(would only just idle). Pulled apart the crank angle sensor and the input shaft was snapped. An expensive mistake to make. *Please note to anybody thinking of removing the cam belt cover you need to put spacers between the sensor and the cam gear if you leave the cover off.

My car won't rev above 3000rpm and is creating boost in neutral above around 1500rpm. It's running realy rich at the moment and my only mod is a front mount intercooler and the pipes aren't leaking. I was wondering if it could be the O2 sensor because in fluctuates between .5 - .8 volts at idle even thou it's running rich. How can I test the airflow meter. Any help would be much appreciated.