BH_SLO32

I have a GFB BOV if interested. Keen to get rid of it. I don't have the adapter anymore just the BOV. PM if interested.

I can help with tie rod ends and probably inner rack end. PM if interested Cheers

I have one from an R33 with some piping in GC. $80 + delivery Cheers, Ben

I have an auto ECU if you are keen.

The gearbox is no longer available but the RB20 is available for $250 neg.

Should be no problem if you use the GTR loom. From what I have read the Power FC model number is the same for R32 & R33 GTRs and I have read R33 GTRs being tuned with R32 GTR computers (remappable). If you need assistance wiring up the GTR loom just ask. I use the factory RB25 looms when transplanting into R32's to retain factory engine management functionality which allows the Power FC for the RB25 to be used. The same will apply here. Cheers

I have a reasonably quick '93 R32 GTS-T which I plan to sell. Will consider trade and cash. It has an RB25DET series 2 motor and R33 gearbox. It has 550cc Nismo injectors, Haltech E11v2, highmount garrett GT35R with 38mm Tial wastegate, splitfire coilpacks, NPC button clutch, coilovers, wheels, Turbosmart boost controller, front mount, walbro pump etc. I recently purchased the complete SK recommended suspension kit ($2600) which I haven't got around to fitting yet. Oh, it also has JVC touch screen MP3 player and 12" sub etc Had it tuned on 16psi and made 220rwkw and has the goods in current form for about a 11.9 or 12.0 quarter mile (best mile per hr to date is 110.5mph but would expect closer to 113-114mph with the new suspension). Serious axle tramp hampered times hence the order for new suspension a couple of days after the test'n'tune event! Last check I had spent $24-25k on mods alone for the car. Let me know if you are interested. Cheers, Ben

You do not need the chassis wiring loom. The conversion can be easily made by simply modifying the RB26 loom with the necessary body loom plugs from the RB25 loom to make it a 'plug'n'play' loom. I have modified several RB25 looms to suit both R32s and a cefiro. I can only guess the mechanic is chasing the chassis loom to make it easier for him to understand the factory wiring. If he has a wiring diagram for the engine loom and pinouts he should be able to wire it up correctly. Its actually not that difficult as Nissan retained a large amount of similarity between the Rb20/25/26 engine management systems. If I had the time I would offer to modify the RB26 loom for you but unfortunately I don't have any spare time for the next couple of months. Hope this helps. Cheers

With respect to ordering coils check to see if there is a power transister module (flat square black unit) mounted on top and at the back of the valley cover. The series 1.5 and 2 have the switching transistors built into the coilpack and hence have no power transister module on the valley cover. I have attached a photo which shows a black plug at the back of the engine above the last coilpack which is typical of a series 1.5 or 2. Ignore the reference to the O2 plug as this was the intention of the photo taken sometime ago. Hope this helps

I would use all the series 1 gear including AFM (series 1 plug wont fit on the series 2 AFM). I checked the CAS and the plug is the same for series 1 and 2, but in any case I would suggest using the series 1 CAS if you know it was working with the series 1 motor. Yes you can swap the CAS without any problems. Let us know how you go. Cheers

You will need to use either the series 1 ignitor with series 1 coils or series 2 coils. I'm guessing the series 1 wiring loom was used in which case it would be easier to simply use all the series 1 sensors eg CAS, AFM etc as the plugs are different. Its a little difficult to comment further without more information on what rewiring was done.

Make sure the big washer/disc was installed on the crank before the crank pulley was installed as it limits how far the belt can move forward. I'm guessing this was missed, I have done it myself and you will get the problem you are talking about. Cheers

I'm pretty sure the signal goes directly to the dash with a feed to the ECU. You will therefore need to set the speedo corrector to adjust the feed to the dash from the drive in the gearbox. I have built the jaycar speedo corrector unit with good results in adjusting the tacho signal. Bear in mind though that the corrector unit will be no good to you if the speedo is not 10% out over the entire range (ie if the error changes over the speed range). Hope this helps.

Checked fuel pressure? You haven't inadvertantly fouled your plugs when trying to get the motor going? Checked the ECU for fault codes? Cheers

Gary, I haven't heard from you and want to confirm that I am on the list as I placed my order in December when there was only 1 rear shock left. I may be jumping the gun but I'm getting a little nervous as I haven't received a PM from you. Thanks.

I've done a couple of RB25 conversions now and the most recent was in my dads R32 over a weekend in January. I spent only a day creating a plug'n'play loom (thanks to considerable time "mapping" the RB20 and Rb25 looms in the past) which makes it as simple as plugging the loom in and firing up the engine. I bought an auto front cut from Asians for $2900 ($100 saving because I've bought numerous front cuts from them in the past - supposed they were looking after me - lol). I replace timing belt and water pump whilst the engine is out ($200) and ideally oil and filter change ($50). If you use the factory Rb20 five speed it will keep costs down. There will also be some other minor costs so allow another $100. Obviously if you get a workshop to do the work you will have their labour costs to consider. Hope this helps PS I have my dads old RB20 for sale. It is in good nick with approx 166,xxx kms. $400 Cheers

Pin 7. It is a yellow wire with red stipe in the RB20DET looms and I would strongly suspect it is the same colour but confirm for yourself by finding pin 7.

Its the main plug that connects into the body loom plug on the R33s. The light blue is from pin 19 which is for the power steering switch, the yellow is power feed to the FICD, the blue with the red stripe connects to the wiper motor and also the incabin plug (probably a power feed), the green with orange stripe is from pin 44 and connects to the neutral switch and the green with red stripe connects to pin 9 which is the A/C cut signal. The grey as you mentioned is power to the injectors. Hope this explains things. Cheers, Ben

I can highly recommend Steve from Motion Garage. Tig welding is excellent and nice shiny finish if it means anything to you. Steve specialises in intercooler kits, custom exhaust manifolds and full stainless exhaust systems. I think I have some photos of his work in my gallery. Ph.0407672023 Cheers, Ben

If you change your mind and decide to use the RB25 loom and ECU (my preference) I can assist with the wiring. I use parts from the RB20 loom and integrate into the RB25 loom creating a plug'n'play loom. This allows the additional functions of the RB25 to be utilised eg. boost solenoid control, VCT, FICD. I put a series 2 RB25 in my own R32 and a series 1 RB25 in my dads R32 recently. In addition to this I did the wiring for another SAU member who put a series 1 RB25 in his cefiro. Cheers

A classic sign of a faulty O2 sensor is hunting when the car is idling. Judging by your poor fuel economy this would also support a faulty sensor. To test if it is the O2 sensor, simply disconnect the O2 sensor next time the car hunts and see if the idle stabilises. Hope this helps

My experience with the bosch fuel pumps is the same. The pumps don't hold the fuel pressure once switched off due to backflow through the pump. This results in a longer priming period once the car has been sitting for a while hence the cranking required. This is probably due to the clearances on these pumps which aren't like the stock units or the walbros which hold system pressure well. I installed a non-return valve in the delivery line of my previous car but it didn't improve things. My current skyline runs a walbro which I am very happy with. Functions better than stock pump IMO. Hope this helps

Series 1 Rb25s get their power feed from the engine bay plug near the power steering reservoir (rect plug with about 6 big pins). Series 2 get their power feed from one of the body plugs inside the cabin near the ECU. Easiest way to check is to unplug the appropriate plug at the front of the intake manifold with the grey wire and test for 12V as described in my previous post. I have attached a photo I took sometime ago of the 2 plugs. You can see the grey wire entering the top plug. Let us know how you go. Cheers

No pulse? Do you have power up to the injectors? The injectors are fed by a common wire which in the case of the R33s is a grey wire. Check the plug at the front of the intake manifold. There are 2 plugs at the front of the manifold. One of the plugs has wires for the knock sensors and air regulator and the other is for the injectors, a main power feed and individual return wires from the injectors. The ECU simply earths the individual injectors as required. Cheers

Check the basics first. Make sure you haven't got a blown fuse. If this is ok check the A/C pressure switch is not open (ie. with the A/C switched OFF you should have 12V either side of the switch when the Accessories is switched on). An open switch would indicate low gas pressure. If you have continuity through the switch inspect pin 9 on the ECU and ensure it has power voltage as well (again with the A/C OFF). When you press the A/C button the voltage at pin 9 should drop to about 0V and you should then get power to the A/C compressor. Hope this helps, Cheers