BH_SLO32

My sisters stagea is insured through Just Car Insurance. I think she would have tried Suncorp first but not sure. I'll ask her in the next couple of days. Cheers

2510s, I can recommend Phil Laird from Graphic Skills Racing (happens to be my cousin). He has an excellent reputation and has customers who fly him all over the country to tune their race and drag cars such as the quad rotor BMW (Queen St Smash Repairs - NSW) recently featured in Zoom. The car ran a 7.29s @ 192MPH. If you are keen to travel to the coast then Phil has recommended Matt Spry in the past (he tuned my last car). Brisbane Street Machines recently used Phil to fit a motec to their 9s GTR. Contact Phil on 3250 0704 (in the Valley). Sorry don't know PITS number. Either Matt or Phil will give a good tune. Hope this helps.

Yes, the fuel pressure regulator controls the pressure in the fuel rail relative to the manifold pressure (most factory regulators are set to maintain the fuel rail pressure at about 43kPa above the manifold pressure). Increasing the speed of the fuel pump (by increasing the current draw) increases the pressure and flow of the pump. An increase in flow is only achievable by increasing the pressure because of an increase in pipe friction and fitting losses. The friction loss increases at the rate of the square of the line velocity. Using a large capacity pump like the Bosch O44 will naturally increase the base fuel rail pressure ( >43kPa say) if the same voltage is applied to the pump. Increasing the voltage will result in an increase in the pump speed and hence pressure and flow. When upgrading a pump you need to consider its flow capacity at a given pressure and voltage. If the standard voltage available at the pump is deemed to be inadequate the best approach is to install a dedicated power feed to the pump to minimise voltage drop. You can then install a relay and trigger it off the old fuel pump power supply as suggested by BHDAVE. Hope this explains things.

bretto, I assume its an R32 and it sounds similar to a problem I recently diagnosed on my brother-in-laws 32. He had an aftermarket O2 sensor installed which was the cause of his problems. I initially checked the O2 readings being received by the ecu and appeared to be fine but by disconnecting the O2 sensor when the revs dropped resulted in an almost immediate increase in revs. Plug it back in and the revs dropped. This was an intermittent problem but I'd suggest unplugging the O2 sensor when the car is playing up and monitor the result. Not sure about the rich readings at 6000rpm as the O2 sensor shouldn't be used in the ecu logic at that rpm if under load from what I understand. I assume the tuner was monitoring the A/Fs with their own wideband O2 sensor and not the one in the car. Try disconnecting the O2 sensor in the first instance when the car revs drop and see what happens. Hope this helps

B0oStEr, Assuming you have an R32 GTST the ecu activates the Fuel Pump Control Modulator (FPCM) when the engine is cold. In essence the FPCM is just a switch which is earthed when the engine is cold. The FPCM is wired in parallel with the resister pack located in the engine bay on the left strut tower (adjacent to the turbo). Basically it reduces the resistance downstream of the fuel pump when cold allowing a greater current flow and hence pressure for cold conditions (acts like cold enrichment). Once warm the FPCM circuit is open resulting in reduced current flow and hence fuel pressure. According to the wiring diagram the non-turbo R32's don't have an FPCM but also don't have the additional resistor in line with the fuel pump. The fuel pump resistor is about 0.8 ohms. If you disconnect the fuel pump resister (in the engine bay) and start the car when cold it should run fine whilst the FPCM is activated. Once the FPCM is switched off (when warm) the car will stall because the parallel circuit with the fuel pump resistor is also open circuited. Please note the above applies at idle but haven't tested above idle. The GTRs operate differently again. The above applies to R33 GTSTs but the location of the resister pack and possibly the FPCM is different. Again not sure what happens above idle. Hope this helps.

West, The elect fan on the 32's runs off the temp switch at the bottom of the radiator as I'm sure you have worked out by now. The relay and fuse for the fan are housed in the fuse/relay box adjacent to the battery. If you want to switch the fan on at anytime you can do so by joining a wire on the correct side (non power side) of the relay control circuit and passing it through a switch (in the cabin) and then finally to earth. When the control circuit is energised (by closing the contacts on the temp switch and earthing or by earthing through the switch you add), the contact in the relay will close energising the fan. If you want to add thermos it would be best done by adding another relay with dedicated power feed for the new fan/s. You can still activate the fans by wiring the control circuit on the new relay into the feed to the temp switch. I have installed a Davies Craig 14" fan and cheap chinese 10" fan and run both off a dedicated supply but still triggered both by either the temp switch or cabin mounted override switch. The result is 3 fans (2 off aftermarket + factory fan) operating to keep things cool. At this stage it appears to be an overkill as the fans only have to operate for 15 to 20s before switching off again (its not summer yet). I should point out the Davies Craig item replaces a cheaper 14" chinese fan which didn't perform nearly as well. If you would like a wiring diagram or some photos I can arrange. Hope this helps.

Possible problems: 1. Air leak. Pinch the blow-by hose (the one connected to the intake plenum) and if the engine revs increase you probably have an air leak. 2. O2 sensor. At idle disconnect the O2 sensor and see if the hunting stops. 3. Plugs. Check condition. Hope this helps. Cheers

Scooby, I managed to kill an AFM on an RB20DET several years ago because I used silicon to seal the unit as I didn't have the standard O'ring. Apparently the vapours from the silicon will play havoc with electronics. In my case the AFM gradually failed. It started with the occasional hicup and finally wouldn't let me rev past 2000rpm (went into limp home mode). It is for this that there are a variety of 'Sensor Safe' sealants on the market. Some food for thought. Cheers

The navara speedo shaft is splined and the r33 gear is keyed, so you glue it on? Doesn't the navara shaft being shorter than the r33 shaft, affect how the gears engage? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> B0oStEr, Have a look at the 2 thumbnails I attached earlier. The left photo is a comparison of the 32 GTR item with the splined gear removed (left) and the R33 item with keyed gear removed. If you look above the 33 item you will see the 33 gear. The photo was to show the difference in shaft length of the 32 and 33 speedo drives. The 2nd thumbnail shows the GTR drive with the 33 pinion gear attached. The 33 drive is an interference fit on the GTR spline so it is unlikely to move. To be safe I sprayed some motorbike gear chain oil in the 33 pinion gear before I pushed it on. The gear chain oil is sticky. You could use hairspray or similar but its not really necessary. The difference in length between the 32 and 33 pinion shafts is not a problem as only the top portion of the 33 pinion gear is keyed. Therefore when you push it onto the 32 shaft it can only push down until the top of the shaft contacts the start of the portion of the gear that is keyed. This locates the gear in the correct position along the shaft. Hope this clarifies things. Cheers

HYBRID, I think I know what you mean. I used the R33 loom but pulled it apart and added new wires resulting in a plug in unit. As an example, the 33 loom uses a single power feed for the injectors and coils which is supplied through the plug inside the car as opposed to separate power feeds for the injectors and coils in the 32 which arrives via the plug in the engine bay. As a result I separated the power feed for the coils and injectors and used the 32 engine bay plug and power feed wires thereby setting it up as per the 32 arrangement. I hooked up everything eg power steering, A/C, warning light, VCT, neutral switch etc. I also installed a relay for the Fast Idle Compensation Device (FICD) as the 32's don't have this. You also need to extract ancillary plugs and wires from the 32 loom and add them to the 33 loom to keep non-engine mgmt parts functioning correctly (eg. fuel pump resister, water temp sensor). If you have a multimeter and wiring diagrams and possess some skill with a soldering iron you can nut it out and set up functional loom. If it seems abit daunting I'd be happy to do it for you. Hope this explains things a little clearer. Cheers

HYBRID, I recently installed an R33 motor and gearbox into my manual R32 and modified the R33 loom to be a 'plug and play' item. I had similar intentions in that I wanted to run around for a period on the factory computer and then upgrade. I have been running around with the factory computer for about 2 months now. I'm currently in the process of installing a large Garrett turbo and have opted for a plug in Haltech. The car should be ready to start on the factory computer next week and early september I will install new injectors and Haltech and then tune. In answer to your questions it is a relatively straight forward swap just a little mucking around to get the gearbox sorted (eg tailshaft mods, speedo mods etc). On the loom side it is a little more involved as power feeds for the 32 and 33 come from different locations. Its not as simple as swapping 2 pins. I sacrificed the 32 loom to utilise power feed wires etc. I had planned to write a guide on wiring up the 33 loom but haven't got around to it yet. Hope this helps. Cheers

Photos as promised. http://image

My sister and brother-in-law both have R32 autos and I'm pretty sure the cross member is the same as the manual which incidentally is the same as the R33 unit. Don't hold me to it but I'm fairly confident that is the case. The manual cross members of the 32 and 33 are the same.The only difference is the mounting position on the gearboxes. I could have modified the 33 cross member but again to keep things neat I fabricated my own cross member from 40x40x2.5 SHS. I'll have a stab at posting some photos of my work in due course. Cheers

Yes, I had Petron Automotive (Driveline specialist in Brisbane) cut the old yoke and uni off (old uni is non-servicable) and welded a new uni on which accommodated the new yoke. In my case I didn't get the yoke so had to source one from Hardy Spicer (approx $110). BTW I found the original boxes for the R32 GTR speedo and can confirm the details as follows: Assy-Shaft and pinion gear - Part # 3207-05U20 Speedo Sleeve - Part # 32707-02G02 You may want to order the pin that locks the shaft in place if you can't use the one from the R33 unit and its part number is 3287314600. Cheers

B0oStEr, I recently installed an RB25 motor and gearbox in my manual R32. No, the R32 splines (manual and auto) are different. The r33 shares the same yoke as the 300zx (so Hardy Spicer claimed). If you score the tailshaft yoke with the front cut the easiest option is to have it added to your prop shaft with a new uni joint. I didn't get my tailshaft lengthened but you should check the length before you pull the R32 box out as you have an auto. Measure from the gearbox rear seal to a location on the centre bearing and reference this point to the transmission tunnel (fixed point). To run the R32 speedo I was also told a Navara or R32 GTR speedo drive would suffice. I didn't have much luck sussing out the Navara drive but I can confirm the R32 GTR drive will work if you swap the speedo pinion gear for the R33 item. This will require removing the spline mounted GTR pinion and pushing on the keyed R33 pinion. It is an interference fit and should hold fine by itself but you may find spraying inside the R33 pinion first with hairspray or similar will add additional holding strength. The speedo drive came as a number of items but looking at my receipts I think you only need to order 1 part. The Nissan part number is 3270305U20 (Pinion-Speedometer). Check with Nissan that the part includes the speedo drive case and pinion/shaft as I did receive both items as separate packages. Cost is $61+GST. Another thing to note is the speedo drive sits further forward in the R33 gearbox compared to the R32 gearbox. I had my speedo cable shortened to keep things looking neat. Also be aware that the factory gearbox mount on the R33 gearbox sits approx 50mm further back and will require modification. In my case I fabricated my own mount. I must say I love the feel of the R33 gearbox and consider it a worthwhile conversion if you have big power levels in mind. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ben

That is very good. Standard compression values according to the R33 service manual is approx 173 psi and the lower limit being about 130 psi.

Gents, I heard several years ago of an instance where an RB/SR powered vehicle was on the dyno and the power level kept changing. After an exhaustive search and much hair pulling it was discovered the key in the cam which locates the CAS had broken causing the timing to constantly change. I would like to think this is an extremely rare problem but for the sake of 10mins it is probably worth checking. Inspect the CAS key and the cam key. To check if the above theory has any merit you can adjust the CAS to adjust the timing and confirm the setting with a timing light. Take the car for a run and check the timing again when it starts playing up. Some food for thought. Cheers

Gents, A few years ago I had a similar problem with an RB20 I put in an R31. It had similar symptons to the ones being descibed. In my case I had installed a non-oiled pod filter. The problem was I had used normal silicon to seal the adapter flange to the MAF as I didn't have the original O-ring. The silicon caused the MAF to gradually deteriorate until it wouldn't let me rev past approx 2000rpm (ECU went into limp home mode). From what I understand vapours from silicon play havoc with electronics. For this reason there are a variety of 'sensor-safe' sealants on the market. Another common problem is excessively oiled filters can result in oil being dragged into the air stream coating the hot wire element resulting in incorrect airflow readings. Some food for thought. Cheers

Able Instruments at Loganholme should be able to sort that out. They fixed a speedo problem I had with my old R31 and recently shortened my R32 speedo cable to suit an RB25 gearbox I installed in my R32. Ph.3801 1232 I hope this helps. Ben

Gents, You can purchase them directly from Nissan for about $90. I was quoted $50 for a reconditioned unit. Can't beat a new item. Nissan had it on the shelf from memory. Hope this helps. Ben

Jackie, I've been dwelling on this topic for a while now as I'm not convinced the faster flashing is due to the flasher unit (I have never had to replace one in the past). I was lost for ideas and its difficult to diagnose a problem without a wiring diagram. My brother-in-law mentioned the hazard switch in their old 33 had been a problem for them which got me thinking. If you disconnect the hazard switch completely the indicators won't work (from memory) which may indicate that the switch is in series with the indictor switch (ie the power feed goes through the hazard switch before/after the power feed to the indicator switch/stalk). It could be possible that the hazard switch is adding extra resistance to the circuit (eg due to worn contacts) causing the faster flashing rate. It may be something to mention to the mechanic. Without fulling understanding the circuit (lack of wiring diagram), solving these problems is usually a trial and error process. Some food for thought. Cheers

Joe, Good to see you fixed the constant ticking. Thanks for taking the photos. Ben

Jackie, On the way home from work today I dropped into a car yard and checked the left rear bulb in an R33 (yeah, don't ask). It was 21W. By the looks of it I think there are 2 bulbs per side (in the rear) and maybe the other one is a 5W. This is the case with the R32 front indicators, the main is 21W and the minor is 5W. I disconnected the 5W bulb in my R32 and couldn't detect much if any change in flasher speed. After reconnecting it I then removed the rear 21W bulb and connected a 5W bulb but couldn't detect any real difference in flasher rate. This confirmed my suspicions that you need a significant change in current draw to noticably change the flasher rate. A good example is replacing the bulb with an LED. I did this on my Yamaha R6 and had to make up an additional circuit to correct the flashing rate (it flashed real fast). This is pointing more towards the flasher unit. It would be good to borrow one from another R33 to check before forking out good money. Autobahn advised that flasher units range in price from $25 to $38. Cheers, Ben

I now think i need a new flasher cam. Does anyone have any idea how much that is going to cost me???? Jackie, Yes, it sounds like you need a new flasher unit. Its been a long time since I last bought a unit but would guess less than $30. Autobahn should sell one or alternatively try a wrecker. Asian (brisbane) had a couple of 33 front cuts but I would suggest its possible one from a 32 might work (depends on the plug arrangement so you would need to check). Let us know how you go. Cheers, Ben