BH_SLO32

The 90's nissan engine management systems (as found in the Silvias and skylines) typically control the tacho by simply earthing a powered supply FROM the tacho on the dash. The R31s and VL tachos operate somewhat in reverse in that they RECEIVE a signal from the ECU or distributor. Assuming the correct SR20 ECU tacho pin is connected to the correct wire from the tacho in the dash, you should be able to simply connect a 12V supply to the tacho wire via a resistor (from memory I have used a 10kOhm resistor). The resistor will limit the current draw and prevent damage to the ECU. This has worked successfully on the R31's and VL's and although I haven't worked on an R30 before I would expect the tacho to operate in the same manner as the R31.

I am guessing that the original R31 ECU fuel pump wire was directly connected to the R32 pin 18 which caused it to blow? If so I gather you have now added a relay and have wired pin 18 to the switch the relay on/off. If you haven't you will need to add a relay. Cheers

+1. Whenever I do an engine conversion I ALWAYS have the injectors cleaned particularly if the engine has not been started for an extended period. I upgraded the fuel injectors on my car once with some second hand injectors and had them cleaned before installing them and all 6 were found to be either completed blocked or substantially blocked. Good advice worth considering.

If it is an R33 RB25 you need constant battery power to pin 58.

Unfortunately not but with the ECU pinout diagrams and wiring diagrams you can sort it out if you are prepared to put some time into it.

The cabin plugs near the ECU are different. In the R33 there is 1 large white plug whereas the R32s have 3 separate and smaller plugs. I have attached some photos of a modified R33 GTR loom to suit an R33 GTST. Note the large single white plug near the ECU. I have also attached a photo showing the dropping resistor I wired in near the power steering 8pin plug.

I have done a couple of RB26 R33 GTR engine looms modified to suit the R33 GTST and it is not an overly difficult exercise given the similarity with the looms because they are from the same model. The R32 RB26 loom however will require a significant rewire if you plan to use it in the R33 due to the location of the major power feeds being different (ie the R32 main power feed is via one of the 8pin plugs near the power steering reservoir but in the R33 looms the main feeds are via the white plug near the ECU in the cabin). The other 8pin plug near the power steering reservoir in the GTR looms feeds the fuel injector dropping resistor block. You will need to ensure you grab the mating plug and wires and the dropping resistor when doing the conversion. If you wish to make the GTR loom a plug'n'play loom you will need to remove the Rb25 white plug (near ECU) and wire it into the GTR loom. You will need to do the same with the 8pin plug near the power steering reservoir. This is what I do when making RB25 or RB26 plug'n'play looms for the R32s, cerfiros etc. Hope this helps

Marty, if it is a 1996 model then it will be a series 2 which has a single common power feed to the plugs and injectors. The series 1 have separate power feeds. Easiest way to tell is the series 2 only has one relay near the ECU whereas the series 1 has 2. The R32 loom receives the main power feeds from the plug near the power steering reservoir whereas the RB25 loom receives the main power feeds from plugs in the cabin near the ECU. I have previously posted a wiring guide for this conversion and although it is written around the series 1 it should give you a clearer idea of what needs to be done. Cheers

+1 RB20 brackets and mounts.

Modify the RB20 loom with the addition of the mating 8pin plug to suit the Rb25 coil pack loom. You will need to remove the RB20 transistor plug and 3pin (power,earth and check connector) plug and join them to the respective pins on the 8pin RB25 plug (you will need to source this plug). The wiring diagrams will help.

If it is an R32 with RB20DET the AAC connector should be disconnected which is the same for the R32 RB26DETT. If it is an R33 or R34 RB25 it is the TPS. I double checked with the R32, R33 and R34 workshop manuals. Cheers

Unplug the AAC when adjusting the AAC idle screw. The air regulator should be fully open when cold and will close as the engine warms up. It should be fully closed when the surrounding temp reaches approx 60degs.

As an option, the following company will recalibrate the standard cluster and you can buy conversion dials at the same time. http://clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/custom-dials/clusters.php?fcn=ViewModels&make=Nissan&model=Nissan%20Skyline Another DIY option is detailed in the following link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268236-skyline-speedo-correction-r33-example-nismo-cluster-minor-adjustments-without-extra-parts/ Cheers

You appear to missing the spacers. These are included in the rubber seal which slots into place in the cam cover. If you tighten the bolts without the spacers the CAS will rub against the cam gear resulting in metal filings. I am guessing the previous owner had discovered this and hence left the CAS loose. Not good. I think the spacers are about 5mm thick. Someone maybe able to confirm.

Just use the RB20 coils otherwise you will need to rewire the connection of the RB20 loom to the RB25 coil pack loom. I have attached a photo of an RB25 S1 loom I rewired to suit R34 coil packs (with built in transistor in the coil pack). Unfortunately you cant see the connector but it is a single 8 pin black plug.

Cheers David, only too happy to have been able to help.

Yep that will be your problem. The factory fuel pump control uses 2 grouding circuits, one is through the FPCM and the other via the dropping resistor. The FPCM is controlled via the ECU so when it is not activated and the dropping resistor is not connected, the fuel pump simply stops working. Took me a little while to diagnose the same problem on my sisters R33. Such a simple thing can lead to many hrs of head scratching! Let us know how you go. Cheers Ben

Yes, only for the fan operation

It sounds like someone has disconnected the fuel pump dropping resistor. My guess is during the respray the guys may have accessed the back left panel(where the jack sits) to remove the aerial. There is a silver rectangular device (dropping resistor) with a single 2pin plug. If it has been disconnected it will give you the dramas you are experiencing. Seems to be a common problem. Let us know how you go. Cheers Ben

Provided you buy the correct resistor with appropriate wattage (10W shown in the photo) you should have now problems. I am guessing the resistor is a 12ohm, 10W resistor. Best to check the resistance on one of the other resistors or simply take it to Dick Smith and ask them to give you the same item. If it is the standard plug you will need to get a screw driver on the metal spring retaining clip and gently lever it up to release the plug. Cheers

I am guessing its and RB20 motor with low impedance injectors? The part in question is a 10W resistor and there will no doubt be one for each injector. I am guessing someone felt it was easier (and definitely cheaper) to simply buy some resistors from Dick Smith than a dropping resistor pack from a GTR. Yes, you can buy a replacement from Dick Smiths or Jaycar and wire it in although personally I believe the dropping resistor pack from a GTR is a much neater alternative. Cheers

What loom are you using S1 or S2?

Another technique I use is to the pull back the black conduit on the number 1 plug to expose the 3 coil plug wires and then place the timing light over all 3 wires. This should give you the correct reading.

The brown relay should be earthed through pin 4 by the ECU. Pin 31 is an "ignition" power supply (ie. power feed when key is turned to the IGN position). I have a loom from a stagea with an R34 Neo and it has a wire in pin 31. That said, Nissan released a number of different looms for the Stagea engines and you may have got one without a feed to pin 31.

My first R32 had a "Hiclone" installed in the intake pipe making it much harder for the engine to breathe and consequently made the car feel very laggy. Once removed it behaved normally. A similar restriction somewhere from the air filters to the intake plenum would cause this problem. Your intercooler is not partially blocked? If you really wanted to get technical you could measure the pressure drop across the intake system.