BH_SLO32

Yep, have that and it is in good condition. $5 pickup or $10 posted

I have an R33 RB25 engine I am selling in parts or as whole. The engine had low compression in every cylinder from the timing belt slipping. Although not confirmed I suspect the valves have been bent. The head has been removed and so to the camshafts. The exhaust camshaft front lobe and corresponding head journal are heavily scored. The bottom end is still assembled. There is no turbo. Price is $300 for engine bottom end and head otherwise will sell in parts. I also have for sale and RB25DET NEO intake manifold. GC $100 Mob. 0404002142 Ben

It wont be the ECU as it only earths the relay trigger. You will need to find the short by a process of elimination. Power is feed to the fuse and then to the relay. Try unplugging the relay and connect a new fuse. If it blows again it implies there is a short in the wire connecting the fuse and relay. If it doesn't blow, you will then need to check the wiring from the relay to the fuel pump.

With the ignition on check for battery power to coils (whilst you are at it check AFM and CAS as well). If you have verified you aren't getting any spark I would focus on the ignition system. It is a process of elimination.

That will be fine. If your car has ABS you will need to ensure the harness you buy also has the ABS wires. There is an additional in-cabin plug for the ABS. Cheers

If you are getting power to the standard fuel pump relay it implies the fuse is ok. Next thing is to check the trigger side of the relay is working (appears not to be working at present). With the computer unplugged and the ignition switched on, measure the voltage at pin 18 (Fuel pump relay control - black wire with pink/purple trace). You should see batt voltage. If there is no voltage at this terminal it implies a break in the wire between the relay and the ECU. If the voltage is ok, switch everything off and plug the ECU back in. Switch the ignition on and measure the voltage again. This time you should see approx 0V (whilst the ECU is priming the pump - first 5 seconds or so). Best to get someone to measure the voltage when you switch the key on. This will tell you if the ECU is switching the relay on when it should. Cheers

Make sure your fuel pump dropping resistor is plugged in. If any work has been done on the aerial recently it is possible the resistor plug has been unplugged. It is located in the passenger side rear cavity behind the wheel arch (where the jack is located). It is a rectangular silver item with a 2 pin plug. Cheers Ben

Josh, I am certain you have blown your main 75A fuse. Look at it CLOSELY as it is often not easy to tell. My guess is when you put the battery feed onto the alternator you you have earthed it against the alternator. There should be a plastic cup which prevents the feed from the alternator earthing against itself. This sometimes comes off so double check. I am talking from experience! The other noise you were referring to is hard to tell from what you have described but was the RB25 an auto and if so did you remove the auto spigot and replace with a manual spigot bearing? Cheers Ben

A blocked exhaust will generate high back pressure and force the wastegate open early limiting the boost you can run. A check of the muffler and cat is a good place to start.

I recently discovered the neo units have a different bolting arrangement to the R33's due to casting changes made to the neo head. I would imagine internally the units would be the same.

My R31 did something similar it would completely die but it would start again almost straight away. With time it got worse and eventually refused to start. I found the terminals on the distributor plug needed a clean as I could move the wires and get it to stall. Had some corrosion buildup which I cleaned and the car never faulted again.

It is used by the computer to switch the fuel pump on and off. The coil side of the relay is earthed by the computer. It won't draw much current.

Yes had the same problem. I used an R33 clutch master cylinder as it is a shorter item. I used standard R32 mounts and brackets albeit modified brackets to allow the motor to sit lower.

Fuel Pump relay, so no, you can't get rid of it.

You can make do without the original harness. I would recommend removing the loom from the car as the time it will take you to remove the RB25 loom is time you will easily save modifying it out of the car. The main power feeds for the RB25 are sourced from in the car and I am confident they are sourced from the engine bay on the NICS RB20 loom. It would be easiest to open the RB25 loom and add new power feed wires which run to the engine bay. If you really don't want to do this you will probably need to run the power feeds separately into the passenger footwell for connection to the RB25 plug. I like things to be tidy but that is just me. Hope this helps

The best thing to do is use the R34 loom and modify it to suit the R32. I normally remove the R32 specific wires (climate water temp sensor, wiper plug, fuel pump dropping resistor and body loom plug connectors) and integrate them into the RB25 loom. The only real issue you may encounter is using the AC. I can’t recall the detail but I noted it last I was reviewing the wiring diagram for the Neo. If your car was originally an auto and you are converting it to manual you will need to bypass the inhibit switch but other than that I don’t recall any issue with the ECU. With respect to your clutch you should be able to source one from your local wrecker, bolts as well. The clutch you use will depend on your power requirements. Hope this helps

I have done an RB20 silver top into my R31 passage 9yrs ago. Can't remember the details but I will be able to sort it out. I will need both the orginal RB20 harness and the RB25 harness and I will remove the necessary wires and plugs from the original loom and integrate them into the RB25 loom making a "plug'n'play" loom. Currently charging $350 + postage. I am on Brisbane southside. I regularly do RB25 engine conversion looms for SAU members with R32's, Cefiros and now VL's.

You shouldn't need to remove the front guard only the guard inner liner (above the wheel) to reveal the loom where it passes through the firewall. You will need to remove the ECU plug, body loom attachment plugs (3 off) and relays one at a time through the firewall and into the guard area. I have found it easier to then pull the rest of the loom (in the engine bay) through the inner guard into the left guard area. Hope this helps.

Looks like this "expert" made a real meal of the loom. Yellow/Green is most likely pin 53 (speedo signal) Black is earth for the FICD solenoid (increases idle when AC is switched on). Light blue is the power feed to the air regulator. This plug has the air regulator power and return and the knock sensor wires. Blue/white is the power feed to the O2 heater, VCT, AAC and boost solenoid. Hope that helps.

Heat would be my only concern. A gasket and some aviation glue work a treat

Is pin 43 connected. This is the START signal for the ECU.

Sounds like a fuel problem. Have you checked your fuel pressure? When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter?

Still have many parts available

Lower Control Arms SOLD Brake backing plates SOLD

Sorry, the Cluster has been SOLD