BH_SLO32

I am negotiable within reason. Thanks for your offer but I will have to decline. Cheers

Yes, the owner supposedly spared no expense on the motor although he still used the stock head and cam shafts - go figure. I saw the 640hp power figure on a dyno chart but am not willing to comment on its authenticity or accuracy. In my experience there are many factors which govern the recorded performance of a car on a dyno hence the variations in power between different dynos. Needless to say a cars performance down the quarter mile gives a good indication of its potential. With the old RB25 motor and GT35R running 16psi (293rwhp) the car managed a terminal speed of 110.5mph (low 12s) despite the problems launching the car with the old suspension. I did get some receipts from the owner of the engine but they only cover the machining work and engine assembly and show purchase of the ARP gear. The owner was quite willing to pull the head off to show the forged pistons although I didn't see this as a necessity given my ultimate goal of not more than 300rwkw. I was also told the block was O-ringed. Walbro is great. I have provided it with a direct power feed thanks the battery now living in the boot. I expected the fuel pump to limit the power the engine made and would expect it to be close to its limit. My cousin, Phil Laird, tuned the car. He is a well respected tuner in Australia. The Electronic boost controller has 3 settings. Normal day to day driving I run on setting 1 which is 13-14psi. Hope this sufficiently answers your queries. Cheers

Tuned to 20psi and made 373rwhp. The motor was bought last year from a guy who had it in his VL commodore. The owner said no expense was spared on the engine build and he had it tuned for 24psi with a T66. The dyno graph showed 640rwhp. So I am confident the motor has more potential in it. Ultimately I achieved what I wanted from the setup so had no reason to lean on the motor. Cheers

Yes, I am sure with a bit more timing that is quite possible. My tuner likes be conservative with his tunes. The car previously had a stock 25 in it with the same turbo setup. Only 3 degrees of additional timing was added over the RB25 timing and the 3L runs about 8.2:1 compression. The head also has stock camshafts.

Hi people, The time has come to sell my pride and joy as cash requirements dictate (thanks to some pending home renovations). It is a 93 model with a built RB30DET and RB25DET 5 speed with GT35R. For full details please refer to the link below. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...el-t213949.html

Make: R32 GTST Model:93 Milage:160,000 Transmission:RB25DET 5 speed Colour:black Location:Brisbane Complied?Yes RWC supplied?Supplied on sale Currently registered?March 09 Price:$22,000 Contact: PM or mobile 0404002142 Comments / Modifications: See below Images: See below ENGINE Built RB30DET (less than 10,000km) Weisco forged pistons, shot-peened stock rods ARP rod bolts and head studs Fully balanced rotating assembly Rebuilt stock RB25DET head. RB25DET Gearbox High mount stainless steel exhaust manifold GT35R with .86 Ex Housing Tial wastegate Plumb back BOV Greddy Intake Plenum Q45 Throttle body Walbro fuel pump 555cc Nismo injectors NPC button clutch Haltech E11v2 Has made 373rwhp on 20psi. SUSPENSION SAU Group Buy Suspension kit (less than 5000km): Bilstein Shocks Whiteline springs Whiteline Camber and caster kits Whiteline front and rear sway bars OTHER JVC touch screen head unit 12in subwoofer 18in wheels TurboSmart EBC FMIC 3in Exhaust Momo Steering wheel Dual Thermo Fans Central locking Alarm More photos to come this weekend including interior. The car only gets driven on the weekend and I have home renovations that require funds. I would love to keep it but it is alot of money to have just sitting in the garage.

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Price drop on Plenum - now $300

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I am keen to get rid of a RB30E block that is taking up space on my back patio. It was going to be used in a RB30DET build but plans have changed and now I just want it off my back patio. I started sometime ago to disassemble the motor but only got as far as pulling the head off and removing ancilliary parts (eg tensioners, oil pump etc). I haven't touched the rotating assembly. What is shown in the photos is what is included (excluding engine stand). RB30E motor - FREE (pickup only) I also have a left front R32 GTST Front left guard for sale in good condition. It is painted midnight purple - GC $50 (pick up only). Cheers

Run the diagnostics and see what temperatures your sensors are displaying. My guess is your intake air temp sensor is reading something like -24Deg (the sensor is faulty). Just recently fixed mine. Cheers

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There is a simple solution! I have found most boss kits to have smaller diameter pins than the factory (the pins cancel the indicators when the steering wheel rotates). The easiest solution is to slide some tubing with some reasonable thickness (1/4" silcon tubing or similar) over the pins and then reassemble. It should now work. Hope this helps. Cheers

The RB25's come with an FICD (Fast Idle Compensation Device) which bypasses more air around the throttle valve to increase revs when the AC is switched on. My guess is your FICD device is not hooked up. It is part of the AAC valve (2 pin purple plug). As the Rb20s don't have an FICD you will need to activate it with a relay triggered by the activation of the compressor. The alternative would be to increase your base idle to try and compensate for the drop in revs when the AC is switched on. The power feed to the FICD is from the yellow wire at the 8pin plug near the power steering reservoir. To increase the idle speed simply disconnect the AAC plug whilst the engine is idling and adjust the idle speed with the screw and then put the plug back on.

Ok, I have attached a rough guide to wiring up the AC which addresses both pin 9 and pin 46. Once you have connected theses wires as instructed you need to carry out a couple of tests. I had to split the document into 2 because of size. 1. Measure the voltage at pin 46 whilst the AC is off, it should read about battery voltage. Likewise measure the voltage at pin 9 and it should also be battery voltage. If you don't have battery voltage at pin 9 then it is likely the pressure switch is open (low gas pressure) or a fuse is blown. 2. Switch the AC on and measure the voltage at pin 46 and it should read about 0-1V. If it is still battery voltage the ECU thinks the AC has not been requested to turn on and therefore will not earth pin 9 and thereby not switching on the compressor. This could be caused by a faulty climate control sensor and you should run the climate diagnostics to view any errors or false readings. A likely culprit (as I found recently) is a faulty intake air temp sensor which in my case read about -24degs. The climate control therefore obviously felt the compressor was not required due to the already "cold" outside air. 3. If you switch the AC on and the battery voltage at pin 46 drops to approx 0 but the compressor has not kicked in check the voltage at pin 9 and it should also be between 0-1V. If not then check the pressure switch and fuse as mentioned above. I trust this helps. Cheers, Ben Wiring_pin_46.doc Wiring_of_Pin_9.doc

I actually was intending to upload some more photos and further explanations over the christmas break but I only got as far as taking the photos. I'll try and put something together tonight if I get a chance. I have put together a rough guide to wiring up an RB25 series 1 for an R32 GTS/T for another member (updated version of the one I sent you Mark), but its probably not really in laymans terms and only covers the main wires. Unfortunately I don't have the time at present to go into too much depth due to other commitments. When I eventually do get some free time I will try and simplify the guide and update it with pin information. Cheers

Pin 7 is the tacho signal from the ECU. From memory you should read a couple of volts across the terminal. Are you sure you have the correct pin? I should point out that the factory RB25 ECU output is slightly different to the 4 cylinder motors and consequently the factory 4 cylinder tacho will read higher than than usual with the 6 cylinder ECUs. You can correct this though with a digital corrector (eg Jaycar speedo corrector). Cheers

Did you remember to install the flat washer which slips over the keyway on the crank before you installed the harmonic balancer? If you forgot to do this, the belt will move forward. Cheers

I have one for sale. I am currently trying to sell the unit with an air filter for $120 but I am willingly to separate. Would be asking $90 + delivery for airflow meter only. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...81#entry3534181

Have you checked the main fusible links (big fuses) as it sounds like you may have blown one of these. These are located in the engine bay near the water bottle on the drivers side under the black cover. Cheers, Ben

I have posted some photos showing the rb25 plug (near the power steering reservoir) and the wire which goes to pin 9. I have then taken a photo of the Rb25 plug connected to my R32 body loom plug and have shown which 2 wires need to be connected for pin 9 to be operational (I have used my test light). Sounds like you found the right wire given you can hear the compressor cutting in. With the compressor operating you can turn the AC on and it should work. As a temporary fix, I would suggest running a wire from pin 9 wire to a switch which is connected to earth. This way you can manually switch the compressor on when you want to run the AC until you get the rest sorted. When I get some time next week I'll take some photos of the plugs in the passenger foot well. Cheers

You shouldn't be able hear a relay clicking when you connect pin 9 unless you have switched the AC on (and assuming pin 46 is wired correctly). Did you try switching the compressor on by probing the wire as shown in the 2nd photo? Earthing this wire will activate the compressor (assuming the clutch is ok). The other plug I have only ever seen with auto's (or RB26's for fuel injector resistor pack and boost solenoid), so just ignore these wires as they are no longer required (assuming you have a 5 speed now). If you were local I would offer to fix it for you but given this is not the case I will try and do a step by step guide with photos. I am busy each evening this week with an engine replacement for my sisters car so I have limited time. I am off for a couple of weeks over Christmas so I will attempt to prepare something then if not sooner.

I think you have wire up pin 46 correctly although I will have to have a look in my own car at the body loom plugs. The white plugs in my photos are the mating plugs from the RB20 loom to the ones you have photographed. From what I can tell your mechanic has used the RB25 plug at the power steering end. Unfortunately Nissan swapped the location of the pin 9 wire in this plug so by simply plugging the RB25 plug into the RB20 loom plug you won't get the AC compressor to work. On the RB25 end of the plug shown in your first photograph you need to connect the green wire with red stripe (bottom right when looking into the open plug) with the relevant RB20 body loom wire (see photos). Please note that I have used the RB20 mating plug hence the wire colours will look different to yours. As a test to see if your compressor is working, connect a probe or piece of wire to the wire as shown in the photos. With the ignition on, if you connect the other end of the wire to ground you should hear the compressor clicking. This wire needs to be connected to the RB25 wire as described above. I will try and make some time tomorrow to take some photos of the plugs near the ECU. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ben

It sounds like the ECU is not switching the compressor on after hard acceleration. To check you will need to monitor the voltage at pin 9 (AC cut signal) before and after you load the motor. With the AC off you should have approx battery voltage at pin 9. When the AC button is pressed the voltage should drop to 0-1V. Likewise pin 46 (AC switch signal) should have approx battery voltage when the AC is off and approx 0 volts when the AC is pressed. Hope this helps. Cheers