BOOMAU

Hey man you still got yur s14, nice lookin car. Drop me a pm if you still have it and want to get rid of it. Cheers. BOOMAU

hmmm. Well I change my oil every 5000klm, I have a pod filter that is not old and doesn't seem dirty, and I have put in iridium plugs in. Would replacing my pod filter with the standard air box inprove my economy? BOOMAU

Hey all, Quick question. I drive my R33 GTS-T to work every day, and I am amazed at how bad the fuel consumption is. At the moment I am getting about 350klm out of a 60litre tank! I have run my car on a dyno before and it was indicated that my air/fuel ratio was rich. I also have purchased a Blitz SBC ID-III, but have not installed it yet. Would I gain better fuel economy if I installed the boost controller and wound down the boost to 0psi? or am I better off gettin an aftermarket ecu or something. My problem is that the car is auto. Any suggestions on increasing my fuel economy would be greatly appreciated Thanks all. BOOMAU 1993 Skyline R33 GTS-T Series 1 Pod Filter HKS Exhaust Everything else stock 146.5 kW

Bump..........

Hey all, Unfortunately I have to sell my car, I have had this for just under a year, services done every 5000 km, In perfect condition. 1993 R33 GTS-T Skyline Gun Metal Grey 2 Door Automatic Mag Wheels 3" HKS Exhaust 82,000km Full Apline stereo system ("R" type splits, 4 channel amp, MP3 compatible head unit, 10" sub. Complete install by Northfield car sound) - value at $2500 Front Strut Brace Autotechnica Sports wheel Full 6 months rego and Safety Certificate on sale Be quick - reduced from $17,900 to $13900 ono. Contact: Shane Gray [email protected] MOB: 0402 840 606 PH: (07) 3288 4179

Just curious, Why would it be hard to drift in an auto?

Just wondering which way everyone has their piping setup. I am getting a fmic soon and there seems to be a few different way in which I can set up the piping. Is it better to have a shorter distance (ie, straight up over the radiator from the intercooler, up in front of the engine, thus I would think making the air hot again but being a shorter route.) or To have the piping run back behind the intercooler (running back behind or underneath the intercooler making the piping longer in route but keeping the air cool?) Does longer piping create lag or any issues along those lines? As I would think that having the piping run along behind the intercooler retains the whole purpose to keep the air cool, but if this creates lag it really defeats the purpose of a fmic I would have thought. Other hand having the piping a shorter distance creates less lag but heats the air back up again, thus defeating the purpose of a fmic in that respect. I have tried to search for this thread but came up unsuccessful so I am sorry if this has been covered. If this has, please don't flame me, just a simple thread link if it has. Cheers.

Hey people, Wondering if anyone knows of a m-spec front bar for a R33 GTST available for sale, or where I could get one in Brisbane (obviously somewhere good)? Will probably need it sprayed too, car colour is gun metal grey. Suggestions on respray? Also any recommendations for a fmic and blitz SBC-IDIII fitting? Was thinking of going to ARE for the frontmount and then get APC to tune it all up? I already have the boost controller but need the fmic. Any suggestions? Cheers guys. BOOM-AU

Thanks for bumping it, I have not read this thread before, and has now prompted me to look at replacing my o2 sensor, as my car does run rich. My question is tho, has anyone been told that using the EL falcon o2 sensor could harm your car by sending incorrect signals to the ECU? or that the OZA23-D2 o2 sensor is not a good as the original? I mean it is designed for a different car so I was just thinking that the signal that is being sent to the ECU would be different. I would rather spend the money and get an original if it is better, but if the EL falcon o2 sensor does no different to the original, I might as well keep my extra 80-100 bucks for something else. Thanks all BOOMAU

After reading the whole post, it seems that there is no real difference either way. For a gain of 10kw to set up a pod, and a box sounds like it is not really worth it. Although seems as tho the air box is a bit restrictive at high rpm. Still doesn't answer the question of my revs dropping since I installed the standard air box though. I think that I am going to revert back to my pod which was sectioned off, may look at adding a pipe from the lower front spoiler up to the pod for more cool air. Thanks guys. BOOMAU

Hey guys, question....... I have had a K&N pod filter setup since I have had the car, and a friend mentioned that the standard air box seems to work better than the pod setup. Is this true? If so, I have just installed my standard air box with a new K&N air filter for it and it seems to be a bit more restrictive. Boost does not seem to come on as high as it used to and when "blipping" the engine to about 2k rpm the revs seem to drop alot lower (drop to just under 500rpm)than when I have the pod on, the revs then seem to creep back after a few secs. The pod never seem to lose revs. Obviously there is a noise difference aswell. What do you guys think? Anyone tested the pod vs the standard air box at all? Could it be that the car was used to a certain air flow which has now changed? Which is better? thanks. BOOMAU

PM'd you RiGo. BOOMAU.

Hey guys, Need a full dash cluster for an R33 series 1 Skyline. MUST be automatic though. Please post if you can help at all. BOOMAU.

LOL (directed at Col-GTSX) hehe that is ok guys, don't mind cause it is all information that will help everyone. Might think twice about the wolf 3D then, just stick to the boost controller and the front mount, and then look at safc then. Thanks for the help all. BOOMAU

Hey all, Got my car dyno tuned today and pushed 146kw at the wheels, nothing spectacular. My car is an R33 s1 auto. MODS: 3" HKS exhaust K&N Air Pod. Everything else is stock standard. Seems as tho that the car is running fairly rich, Air/fuel ratio levels are pretty low, peaking at about 10.8. Would this be a result of my air induction system, or lack thereof? or simply the standard ECU? and would the Wolf 3D fix this and give me more power as a result of better AFR? Future plans. Wolf 3D ECU Front Mount Intercooler Blitz ID3 boost controller What ya all think? BOOMAU. P.S thanks to Mercury Motorsport for fitting me in on such short notice.

Hey all, My front dash, where aircon vents, hazard, etc are, all the way down to the gear stick is starting to peel. Seems to come off pretty easy, so I could peel it all off and respray it. Just wondering what you guys would recommend to re spray it with, maybe vynal spray or something? Thanks. BOOMAU

Wow, might just try that, I had the tacho out yesterday and once I got it out and checked the connectors to see if they were securely in, I just put the stupid thing back. I might try it again and see if I can pull off the glass front cover and peel back the tacho cover bit and give it a few taps (possibly punches depending on how frustrated I get with it hehe) check the wires and see if that does anything. Are there any problems just hooking the tacho up with everything else unplugged (ie aircon, hazard, dash light dimmer, etc)? I wouldn't think so, but possibly thought that if something wasn't plugged in, car would sense that and somehow screw up the computer. Anyway, thanks all for the ongoing help with this one, if I figure it out, I might post a thread on what I did in detail for others to try. Hitting the dyno today, with my stock standard R33, hopefully everything is A OK under the hood so I can start tweakin my little baby up. Cheers all BOOMAU

Pulled out the whole dash, checked all the connectors to make sure that they were all securely conntected and replaced it all. Still not working.... Anyway, because there is power going to the tacho I really dont know what is going on, the tacho is still moving slowly from 0rpm to over 9000rpm over the space of 1/2 hour. Obviously the tacho is working on some level, idle and running of the car is fine, I just got no idea what rpm I am doin and it is really starting to bug me. Thanks for the help, guess only other solution is to try another tacho, cluster and see if that works. BOOMAU

Thanks alot for the info Paul. That is a great help, gives me some idea on what to look for and how much I have to spend. Thanks again. BOOMAU

I have an R33 Skyline GTS-T Turbo automatic. Anyone had a problem with the tacho (RPM) part of the cluster not working properly? Mine seems to gradually run clockwires from 0 all the way round past 9000rpm over the space of about an hour. I have tried to obtain a second dash cluster but I cannot seem to find one cheap. It has worked once or twice at times, but very rarely. Is this an issue with the tacho, or the connection? Anyone know where to get a dash cluster fairly cheap? Thanks. BOOMAU

Yeah I realise that, but I am trying to resist the temptation to spend a small fortune on my car. I would like some ideas on a good starting point to build from, something that can get my car running a bit quicker than standard. What do you guys think of installing an APEXI AVC-R with a front mount intercooler say a Blitz, and a blow off valve (open to suggestion on a brand)? I think that I am going to leave my turbo standard at this stage, please correct me if I am wrong but can standard turbo handle up to about 12psi without too much trouble? Please don't flame me for sounding like an idiot if this makes no sense or sounds stupid. Would like some suggestions. Thanks BOOMAU

Hello all, I am new to SAU and I currently have a R33 GTST 4speed auto. I currently have a 3" HKS exhaust system and a k&n air pod, but besides that it is stock standard. I would love some suggestions on initial mods to get a bit more out of the car. I don't want to spend tens of thousands, but I am prepared to spend a little on some light mods. I have a friend who mentioned that obtaining and installing a front mount intercooler and a boost controller is all I would have to do to push the car to about 150-200kw without too much hassle. Is there anything else I should consider before getting any of these components (ie. ecu, bov, etc.)? Any other easy mods that wont cost the earth that I should look at? Are there any particular brands/models you guys would consider as good value for money without taking out a home loan? I dont want to do a 10sec quarter just yet.....maybe one day. Thanks all, your opinions are greatly appreciated. BOOMAU.