arbess

not bad not bad if i wasnt a poor ass uni student that what i would get. good luck with sale, im sure it will go quick.

IMO, I have never driven a 4dr, though I have heard what they have handled like. I think what you might have to consider is the marketing purpose of a 4dr, what they would do to a 4dr. The only thing I can think of is the suspension being tuned differently to match the body's rigidity. Possibly with the 4dr since you have a big chunk of the side cut out for a door, the flexural rigidity would go down. Thats my thoughts. Don't get me wrong I think 4dr skylines look hawt done right. Im still waiting to hear from someone to convert a 4dr r32 into a 4dr gtr, or buy a AUTECH r32 and put some turbz on that.

ki_spirit, curious, have you ever and be honest, used ethanol fuel in the car?

ok fixed the loom. changed the plugs (iriduim ix) car is still doing it! im so over it, i have no patience left for this machine.

Um dudes... since you have said the AWD meter doesnt move at all, the first thing i would of done is check to fuse in the engine bay. Its in english. To me it sounds like someone sold you a lemon. if your AWD light isnt on when you turn your car to to "ACC" position then that means your bulb is out. By doing these first you could save yourself a huge headache and lots of money. Having compression that... usually a healthy gtr sees 140+ and I have seen averages around the 160 mark. (I quote these figures from many skyliners here on SAU). Honestly I think you were taken for a ride when you purchased this car. I would do what others say and sell, that engine doesnt sound happy, but please get a 3rd opinion from a DECENT mechanic, i mean that with a big emphysis on the decent part if you havent noticed. For you my friend, check that AWD bulb in the dash, replace that FIRST so that you can use that to see if AWD is busted when you start your car, after you have re-installed the cluster. Then if, when your car is started, the AWD is on, turn your car off and inspect the fuse in the engine bay (in the little black box), it should be a 30A fuse, mine is green of colour. If that isnt in there, get one asap. If it is in there, test it to see if it is busted, use a multimeter (i cant remember if you can visually inspect it to determine if it busted). If it isnt there go buy yourself one that will fit, put this in, hope to god it fixes your problem. If all else failes, then further determination of your problem is needed. I think this is your essential first steps to save you lots of time and money. Keep us all posted on your progress.

Cool, thats price isnt that bad. Are you operating your rb26 without the coil pack cover? I have this strange feeling that since i have taken off the cover, over a one year timeframe and the age of the loom, the plastic has been subjected to "irregular" heating and cooling cycles. What I mean is, when the coil cover is on, the heat built up in there allows for "regular" heating and cooling of the enclosed area. With it off, the plastic doesnt shrink or expand as it usually would, most likely at a faster rate, and at that age it is not used to the "irregular" rate of shrinkage or expansion because of the cool air allowing to flow over from the front of the car. Otherwise it was just a sh*tty wire. Lawl

Just popping my head in to give others some idea to my problem, in the case that it could be happening to you. First things first, like my post in the DIY about tie rod ends, make sure you get permission by your misses to play with your car. On this day I was lucky, she wasnt around. I actually decided to look into this for motivation to do my uni study and it worked... lol If at the end of this I have fixed my problem i will try and post a DIY for your loom wires and like with all my post, i take no liability. =) Specs of Car: R32 GT-R 1990 Nearly stock, no boost, full length exhaust and air pods. Coil Pack cover off. PROBLEM For a little while now my r32 has been stuttering under full load. Key word is load, i will elaborate later. If I was to apply full load, ie. foot to the floor, the car would start to stutter (pop, hesistate, go like it was farting). I couldnt identify the problem at the start and had many other things looked at. Initially I thought it was the AWD/Attessa/transfer case, fortunately it wasnt as I had all these checked. I came to the conclusion it was to do with electrical in the engine bay. Spoke to many many ppl and the general consensus was Ignitor pack/coil packs/looms that connect these/spark plugs. HYPOTHESIS After further inspection I had removed the ignitor, ignition looms, coil packs, spark plugs, and found from these a very serious issue in the wire loom. This is a photo of the culprets The wires in the loom as you can see have created a hole in the insualtion wrapping provided at factory. You will not be able to see it but one of the wires has a crack in it, most probably allowing an arc of electricity to escape. Here is a photo of my spark plugs, I have no idea how long they have been in there. As you might be able to see the 4th and 5th spark plug have suffered some damage to the tips. Im no plug expert, but at my guess it would be due to incorrect sparking or not sparking at all. I believe that this crack in the wire is causing my dilemmas and will be fixing it very shortly and buying new plugs. Well I hope ive given others some idea to similiar issues are in the same boat and can identify their problem. Arb

oh and to add. I can confirm the gearbox was rebuilt, but not the engine rebuild. peace.

I might be a little late to post here. I might just add my thoughts. I drove this car pre and post surgury (ie. the supercharger). I can certainly say coming from a gtr background that this car was a beauty. (1) for attention (2) for the drive. It has space, reputation, and luxury. If the owner hasnt played with the seat settings, my personal settings could still be preset. The owner at the time looked after this car really well and was very particular in the way it was presented. I cannot vouch for the new owner but by the looks of it, it hasnt changed. This car is fantastic and if money wasnt an issue i would have my gtr and this celsior. Hope that helps. Good luck.

mate i think this was sold ages ago. and is in "different" condition

I would say gear ratio's, final drive, and tuning. and its from Ja-pun.

lol, everyone needs some pills or pussy. m3gtr, thanks for your info. I thought it was cool. Like many others who have read this, i am sure this info wont be set in stone until nissan officially releases more info, so chill out.... Make love not war

I'll try posting some, just so flat out at uni. Good luck with your reformat.

holy dude... 167 for the badge... your getting ripped. its about 80 trade and 100 retail. no offence of course if your from Nissan =P but all to their own =)

Jyoji in brisbane was selling his. all i know is his was track preped. cant remember his username, but have a look on the Queensland classifieds.

This might sound a little left field but, have a look at your earthing cable from your engine to your chasis. Also wouldnt hurt to check your batteries age.

I had the same problem as you. what i did to rectify the problem, after reading numerous threads: 1: Battery, I can't stress enough how important a healthy battery is for HICAS. do this change first. 2: Speedo cable. fix this if it boogies, not good for HICAS either.

stock boost is not 10psi. for those who think it is, go and redo your maths. the guage is mmHG not psi. Stock boost sits around 7psi. your problem could lie in electrical. maybe an AFM, its hard with cars like these, problems lie everywhere. good luck

Good luck with your sale, that is a wicked blue on your car and i presume its factory which makes it even sexier.

read the first few post of this Thread ie. Page 1, tells you cinfidently where to get your numbers =) good luck mate.

Arep3 sorry mate, just a quick tip if you dont already know, when the number is given to you from someone and you dont know what section to look at, the first part of the number is the section to look in, ie. 15010-24U00- the 150 is the section. saves a hell of a lot of time. =) cheers all, back to tedious uni work, Arbess

Pen Just as i was reading Arep3 replies to your posts, i found these Crank Angle sensor is named CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 23731-02U11 <----- This is the same as the number you supplied Arep3 i think the name was throwing us off, N1 Oil pump for RB26DETT.GTR/N1.MT.F5 PUMP ASSY-OIL 15010-24U00- alternate number 15010-24U01- Hope that helps and this car is a 1995 January by what FAST says.

PM me i have 17x9 lightweight rims. still... trying to sell them. http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....8&hl=arbess

Hey all, and i big hello to AREP3 I apologise for my disappearance from the forums. I no longer have the time to commit to posting part numbers on the board, but i will do what I can, so what i would suggest is do a search on the forum for what you are after as they will be scattered throughout the place. Ill be back here and there. AREP3, your doing a marvelous job here! if only i could nominate you for a logie. kind regards, Arbess

Nope not going to the Spit today . I'd give you a hand if you drove a nissan lol. jks dude, you know where I am i can give you moral support. have fun!