Zahos

Tyres now sold

bump Still for sale.

just got a couple of online quotes, $100 - $120 seems to be the range. plenty of tyre places on ebay selling new tyres at (relatively) cheap prices delivered, would like to know who they use...

bump

Already started at best price.... I paid $1000 for these new, so $250 with 60%-70% tread left is a bargain.

still available

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Tyres are in great condition. Those spots seen in the pic, are just wet spots after rolling them through a puddles to get them outside for the pics...

pics attached

Item: 4 Hankook K104 Tyres Age: 18 - 20 months??? Condition: 60% - 70% tread, no punctures, just came off car that is always in lock up garage, no camber wear Price: $250 To Fit: any car requiring 18" tyres Location: Melb - Cheltenham (near moorabbin airport) Contact: George - 0421 345 340 Comments: Will only ship interstate if buyer organises freight, and pick up from my home.

Can you please check the tyres - brand and model, as without this info, I cant tell you if I would want them or not. Thanks, George

what Tyres do they come with, and what are the tyre sizes? any previous repairs to the wheels? Any scrapes, buckles? do you have any pics?

Damn, you're 4 hours too late, I just got one today. What version is it out of curiosity? and how old?

I'm after a chipped PS2 (normal or slimline, dont care). Dont care for games either, as long as it has memory card and at least one controller. Must be in good working order. located in melb. Cheers

SOLD

Have 1 R33 GTR Drivers seat for sale. It's in very good nick, no rips. (One photo shows that the fabric is creased in 1 spot, but NO rips) Price: $400 Prefer pick up, but if you want to arrange / pay for postage, be my guest. Reason for selling: Finally found an orthopedic seat and had it installed. Will bolt straight up to R23, R33 GTR and GTSt Located in Cheltenham (Near DFO and Moorabbin airport) can send the same pics in hi res to your email if needed.

I've had 3 sets (or is it 4 now???), and when installed properly they don’t squeal.... EVER! Unless I do ALL of the following, they will squeal. - Once old pads are removed, spray the pistons on the callipers with some degreaser, and wipe the pistons down well - clean the anti-squeal shims with some degreaser and steel wool, until all goo and brake dust has been removed (NOTE: doesn't have to be degreaser, anything that gets that shit off is fine) - spray some anti squeal brake glue on the shims EXCEPT on the sides where the shims rub together. So, on the side of the shim that will touch the piston, and on the side of the shim that will touch the back of the brake pad.. (NOTE: I don’t know if this is the right way to do it, but it works for me) - spray some anti squeal brake glue on the back of the brake pad Put brakes back in. - go for a drive down the street, and do about 5 to 8 HARD stops from 60 km/h down to 10 km/h (without skidding, invoking ABS, or coming to a complete stop) - finished. This works for me every time. Also, just to note: - once I put the anti squeal glue on every surface of the shims, and it still squealed - another time I didn't put any, and it squealed - another time, I cleaned the shims, didn’t put glue, and it didn't squeal? So, my directions above may not be the only solution, but it's the only solution that has generated no squeal for myself consistently.

its been over 3 years, and the 5 minute stufff i used is holding up just fine. changed plugs this weekend, and coils looked fine. just get the 5 min stuff dude and do it.

only if there is internal damage to the coil itself, which is pretty unlikely. i have spoken to 2 guys with 300rwkw monsters with the standard coils covered in araldyte, they have no issues. it costs virtually nothing, so it's much wiser to give it a try rather than spending $600 without trying this first.

Hey Damo the cracks aren't always visible on the coil packs. Just slap heaps of Araldyte as shown in the dodgy pic on the first post on all of them, it will only do good... also, clean the contacts where the spring sits with some carby cleaner, even if it looks clean. Wind your boost back up where it was, and give us a status report when your done. I'm guessing the flat spot will remain - that's a problem with the tune on the stock ECU, but the misfire should go.

Yeah, headroom (with a sunroof) is a real bitch with the standard seat, but the GT-R seat is low enough to give me *just* enough headroom.

As you can see from my dodgy paint pic, the points marked with the red arrows are the spots that dig into me because of my height, and width. The seat backing is too short for me, and the base sits too high, and yes i do have a sunroof. The 300ZX backing seems to flow like one long piece, and it doesn't look like there are any points that would dig into me.

I'm looking to find a more comfortable seat for my R33, as I'm really uncomfortable in my line ATM. I'm 192cm and 100kg, and I've got wide shoulders. The stock R33 GTS-t seat was pretty painful, b/c it would dig into my upper back, and it was way too high for me. I've got a R33 GT-R seat now which is slightly better, as it sits lower and doesnt dig into my upper back, but it is way too narrow for me... I was looking at a 300ZX (TT) seat, and it looks way more comfy. Just wondering if anyone (larger guys mainly) have had any experience driving a 300ZX, and if it was comfy or not. And does anyone know if a 300ZX TT drivers seat will fit into an R33 with little or no modification?

I bought these very recently, but have upgraded to a Set top box that has component output, so I dont need it anymore. The item is an RGB (SCART) to component signal converter. The item is in as new condition, used only twice to verify that it works. It comes with power adapter, and still has warranty until the 26th of May 2007. I have included a new SCART cable also, 1.5 in length, and gold plated connectors. The cable is double screened to block any interference to give a clean crisp image. You can see in the pics I have the scart cable next to a standard scart cable and there is a considerable difference in thickness. The converters go for around $115 new http://www.hometheatre.net.au/cyu2100.htm and the cables sell for around $40 new I am asking for $70 pick up for both, or if you want it delivered, it will be an extra $7 postage. PM me here, or give me a buzz on 0421 345 340 George

here's the link