Zahos

I just called Nissan, and got a price for an R32 GT-R clutch (push type in the 89 model) Clamping plate = $205 + tax Pressure plate = $261 + tax Release bearing = $27 + tax All up comes to $542.30

Clarion VRX746VD Brand new, still in the box with Clarion factory warranty. (1 year) The website says $3899 new, but they actually retail about $2500. I am selling for $1600. Send me a PM if interested.

As the title says, I am thinking of getting a car that's in Lismore (I'm in melb). But I don't wanna fly up there to find out the car is a sh1tter!!! If there is anyone in the area that could look at a car for me, please reply. The Ad is attached below. What I want to know is (besides overall condition): - Any rust? (I dont care if the spray job is not in the best condition, and I dont care if there are a few small dents, scuffs, etc) - How is the interior? - Does the conversion appear to be done professionally? - Have the brakes, brake master cylinder been upgraded? - Have the hubs been changed over (5 stud) - Has the diff, rear axels been upgraded? - Fuel pump upgraded? I doubt most of those have been done at that price, but if it is not an inconenience for someone else, I would appreciate it... Thanks

Yeah, new they are worth rediculous amounts of money... mine cost me $250 + $50 for new flange welded & install + ~$50 shipping from Toowoomba to Melb see here. If you hang out for a good bargain, then they are well worth it!

I dun know if people that have left negative comments on the Super dragger have actualy had one, or mine is just a frak, but..... A) It is NOT loud at all... It will definately pass EPA B) It flows VERY well..... My dyno graph says 200rwkw with this exhaust, 9psi boost, FMIC and SAFC2 (flat 12:1 A/F ratio till redline) The ONLY things I dont like are: A) sits a bit low (clears 100mm with stock suspension - just) B) Tip is too big (but thats personal preferance) Im my opinion, they are great and I would recomend one!

I myself have sprayed 4 cars. 1 was a brare metal job 3 were rub back. Bare metal takes a lil longer, but you get a much better result, ESPECIALLY if you want to change color (ie: add a pearl). In fact, if I was going to change color, I wouldn't do it any other way. Rubbing it back is good if you want to simply freshen the SAME color, and you will only be applying a few thin coats. Having too many coats of paint is not a good thing. To strip to bare metal, we used automotive grade paint stripper. It was expensive stuff, but WELL worth it. I would put the stuff on with a paint brush, and if I packed it on thich enough, the paint would fall off on it's own withing 30 seconds. I didn't even need to scrape most of the car. It was a little tricky where there was bog though. I'd use a 400 or 600 grit to do around the edges, and steel wool + 800 grit wet to prep it for paint. Have some killrust handy incase you find any. You also may need to replace some window rubbers + clips if you do a bare metal job. Otherwise, there is some string you can use to pull the rubbers around windows pack so you get the paint in there... I also removed all panels (boot, bonnet, doors) to paint them so I didn't miss any spots around the edges. Well, there's one man's opinion, based on his experiences. What you do is up to you.

yeah, and weren't you told not to post in here? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=59230

bump any1???

bump any1???

is it a cheap amp? My amp is a cheapo, and I got engine noise when I use all 4 channels, and NO engine noise when I use 2 channels. Just thought I would share my experience.

Have you read over this thread? Did you get the fuel pump installed around about the same time? Could be something to do with the way the pump is wired up???

I am in need of the hack handle for my R33. I have the jack that came with my car, but not the handle to wind up + down, nor the socket handle to undo the wheel nuts. If any1 in VIC has one left over from a wreck or something, I would appreciate it if you sold it to me. Thanks Z

Sounds like the caps on your flux capacitor are starting to crack. nah, seriously, I know there is some setting on there that prevents the car stalling from atmo BOV's. It is in the extra's menu I think. what BOV do you have?

If there are PLENTY of 93 models going cheaper, then why would you even bother trying to negotiate a price here? Why dont you just go and buy one of those cheap 93's, that way people like you dont come on these forums and try to negotiate stupid prices.

Does it change / go-away when your clutch is engaged/disengaged?

why is it weaker? RB25's need more airflow to sustain 10psi in the higher revs than an RB20... it's more to do with how hard the turbo works to maintain enough flow.

obviously didn't bother searching, so try it now. Someone has written a detailed step-by-step tutorial for installing a bosch pump in a Skyline

Have seen R33 with same damage, except the wheels where not moved, alignment all that were fine. Only thing that was hit on engine was water pump/fan clutch. Repair cost over $13K through insurance. If you paid out of your own pocket, $10K. You only paid $16K, so cut your losses, sell off parts of the car, and buy another. It will be cheaper and better than getting it fixed.

I had my water pump replaced recently, and they needed to get the timing belt off. When they put it back on, it was way too tight, and made noises on idle once it warmed up. When cold it made no noise... Also check to see if it the bearings on your A/C, alternator or power steering. To do that, take one belt off at a time to see if it stops..

Well I have a turbo timer and a 3 pt immobiliser, and they work just fine together. My alarm is designed for cars with turbo timers though. In regards to hotwiring the car from harness, I don't know if you can. I don't know if there are any constant power wires down there.... but if there were, I'd assume it would be easier to figure out what each wire is for on the steering column.

Just thought I would update this thread with some more info.... Although my coils were covered in araldyte, they started playing up again on the weekend, so I pulled them out including spark plugs to see what was going on.... Well first of all, my tuner gapped my spark plugs like so: 1:0.6mm, 2:0.7mm, 3:0.7mm 4:0.75mm, 5:0.6mm, 6:0.6mm not to mention a whole bunch of bolts missing all over the place, but anyhow, once they were re-gapped I turned to the coils. Upon inspection the araldyte looked fine. No cracks, no chips. So I took the rubber boots off, and the little springs inside the shaft and notice the shafts were a little corroded (that blue/green crap you get on your battery terminals). So I sprayed the shafts with WD40, and cleaned them out with steel wool. The car runs better than it ever has now, and is very smooth. So also take this into consideration when looking at your coils. Z

It is the way the pads have been installed, and bedded in. I used racebrakes RB74's on my car and the sqeeled like a mother fcuker! Many others quote that they get NO squeeling from them. I know now that I didn't install the shims properly when I put them in. The squeeling came at low speeds (<40 km/h). Then I got bendix ultimates. Many have said that these squeel just as bad, but I didn't even bed them in properly, and they are fine! Not a single sound, and this is my second pair on the front! With the bendix though, I installed the shims properly. Find out what pads you are using, and check that you have anti squeel shims. If you dont, that could be the reason, if you do, possibly give them a clean. That's all I have to offer from my experience. Z

In a nutshell closed loop gets feedback, so that it can re-adjust using some pre-set algorithm, or use fuzzy login as a means of correction. Open loop has no feedback, so it cannot re-adjust, nor learn.

I've used the standard OEM brakes, bendix advance, bendix ultimates, and racebrakes RB74... The RB74's had the best stopping power, but were crap when cold. Also, I couldn't get them to stop squeeking. The Ultimates come second in stopping power, but first for street use in my opinion. Yes they do leave a lot of dust, but the RB74's will chew through your rotors quicker. The bendix advance pads are good too. Cant remember how dust was, ultimates feel a little better. standard oem pads are crap. Just get the Ultimates, they are very good for street use, and spirited driving. Search the forums for the part number, it is listed SEVERAL times...

They are always polite to me, but they recognise me. I have given them plenty of business, and taken plenty of other customers. In terms of duds - nothing like rubber flying off, just vibrations and stuff.... These tires are from germany, and wuite a few are from cars that have been in accidents. So there is a possibility that there may be flat spots and stuff.... What I do is: I pick a set, put them on, then go for a drive around the block (b/c they can be slippery with the stuff they use to treat them), then go on the freeway and see how the car feels at 100km/h (freeway is next to this place) If I am not happy, he changes them for me with another set. I usually give him something for his time too (extra $10 - $20, if I get a set I am happy with) b/c there is no way he can know if they are stuffed unless he puts each tire on a car and does a before / after comparisson, and that is rediculous.