Zahos

Selling boost controller as seen in this article. Comes with: norgren pressure relief valve norgren pressure regulator (not the upgraded italian valve) check valve and all hoses + fittings and brackets to fit and be mounted around the standard R33 airbox. $100 In melb will send interstate at buyers expense.

if you stick the 2 shims together they will squeel..... Fist time I installed ultimates, I stuck the 2 together with the anti squeel brake glue, and they squeeled like a mother ****er. Then I took them out, peeled all that glue off and glued one shim to the brake pad, and put some on the outside of the smaller shim so it sticks to the pistons. So the only part where ther WASN'T any glue was between the 2 shims. Now I am on my 3rd pair of ultimates (as of yesterday) and there has been NO SQUEEL since...... Give that a try... Also make sure you bed them in properly. I just did 5 really hard stops from 50 km/h, and that was enough...

There must be someone else out there that has bought a boss kit... what exactly is it about the boss kit that makes it hicas, or non hicas. The only difference I see is the rectangular disc with the 2 square holes cut out...

I have bought the same boss kit, and I was wondering what you did with the 3rd wire? The one that has a huge plug on one end of it.... And I assume the washer goes between the bolt and the boss kit? thanks

I have the one in this this article. I dont have the upgraded preasure regulator, but I do have the check valve. Works very well for a pneumatic boost controller. Selling with al fittings and hoses, and brackets for $120

this is common on RB25DET coils usually have small hairline cracks, so spark arks on head and is weaker, ont high boost, ECU runs rich, and retards timing to protect engine. At this point the cracks in your coil become noticable as your car starts to hesitate. The problem is most apparent at 4500 -> 6000 rpm cheapest solution is: araldite, silicone or whatever the cracks on the coils AND get a SAFC to lean out your mixtures. gapping down your spark plugs may make it less noticable, but won't fix it. best solution: new spitfire coils + new stand alone ECU also the more expensive solution I have gone for the cheapest solution, and my car runs incredibly smooth. The problem does not exist anymore Read through this thread, as it details where to cover the cracks on your coils. Invest in a SAFC to adjust your Air/Fuel ratios - you will NOT regret it.

did the pipe blow off completely or was it just enough to leak? Coz I have blown my cooler pipes right off before, and I couldn't even drive the prick. I have also had leaks, but it only made it hessitate (yes it did run like complete crap, but I could rev it well past 2600 rpm) If his car drives fine most of the time, and twice (twice is a key word here), it has not revved past 2600 rpm, then it is most likely some sort of sensor crapping itself / not connected properly. AFM is the first thing that comes to mind. It could be something else, but I dont want to be a keyboard tuner and say exactly what it was without looking at it.

He said it cuts out completely How can a small leak do just that? Please explain

thanks for that Adzmax. I just read it in another post, but appreciated anyhow Any ideas what standard fuel pressure is on a RB25T? I still haven't found this info yet.

I might be interested in a 040 I haven't done a fuel pump before, how easy would the 040 be to install? What are the flow rates of the standard Rb25DET fuel pump?

yes, and 2 antenna's for improved reception (can get fuzzy with just 1)

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could be your air flow meter(s) are/is faulty or not plugged in properly. Thats a good place to start. ECU goes into limp home mode when AFM(s) dont work, or not plugged it and will do what you described.

yes, pictures, and your location thanks

If your crutch is spining, then I suggest you se a doctor

The tilt is manually done, but the slide in/out is motorised

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Almost every decision made by insurance companies is based on statistics, not what they see on today tonight. 4 years ago, a 94 200sx was more expensive than my R33 b/c there more claims on 200sx's than R33's (relative to the number insured) Now R33 have have more claims (relativly speaking) so they are more expensive. In simplified terms: age + gender = risk1 -> risk of you haing accident in general risk1 * type of car = ris2 -> risk of you having an acident with that car I have never made an at falt claim, but i have been hit twice this year by other morons! Now my wife's insurance tells me that 1 more NOT at fault claim, and my excess goes up!!!!! WHY???? B/C statistically they think I somehow contributed to both accidents, even though i was not at fault.... I know it sucks, but they have to run their business somehow....

Yeah, it has AV inouts front and back, so you can connect one up.

price change, now asking $650

price change, now asking $650

if u try turn it whith the engine off after a drive it may or may not turn depending on how hot the clutch got. (the hotter it gets, the more it clamps and the less you can turn it) if u try turn it after it has been sitting there for a while - eg: first thing in the morning, and you cannot spin it freely continuously, then it needs changing

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if the engine was cool, and it only had that much movement. then you have found your problem.

pull off a rubber boot from one of your coils, and one of the purchased coils. I purchased some that were missing the little spring that sits inside the boot, and the ones I bought had corroded / stained metal. I cleaned them up with bi-carb soda and steel wool, then put the spring in (dunno if the spring makes a difference) and they worked a lot better. But from the sounds of it, sounds like u got the wrong coils