Zahos

Hey fane I have outlined the area's I appliead araldite in red.

yeah, just do it anyway. I had 2 coils that were still causing misfire, and I could not see the crack there. So I did those 2 anyway and problem solved. You might as well do them all, just incase.

you covered the wrong part of the coil. the clear part never cracks AFAIK. It is the side opposite to the clear part that cracks. these photo's from a thread I posted show where they usually crack.

I haven't driven my car in 4 weeks, but for the 5 or so weeks before that I had not a single misfire on 10psi.

Hey Heath, do a search for misfire and hesitation. This has been covered plenty, so you will find plenty of info. cheers Zahos

Hey B1, what does the $320 include?? Just the bars, or the bushes that go along with it too? I get some squeeky noises from my front end, and it doesn't feel as rigid as it used to, so I suspect I have some worn bushes, only I dont know enough about this matter to determine which ones need replacing. Can any1 suggest what bushes I should be changing (not just from a maintanance point of view, but from a handling point of view)? Thanks

I can vouch for that, as I hve been buying tyres off these guys for 9 years now! A couple of years back I picked up some yokohoma advans 225/50R16 for $90 each. 2 were brand new, and 2 had 98% tread (those little lumpy bits you get when they are new were still just visible) That price includes fitting and balancing. The only thing is, these guys dont do such a great job at balacing, but they have sOOOO many tires with heaps of tread at the most competitive prices. Last time I got some hancook's for $125 each fitted new... The same tire I got quoted between $185 - $220 at 5 different places.

So typical of this happening in Melbourne.... I can't think of ANY other city in the world that has d!ckheads like that cyclist! I cant speak for the rest of Australia, but 99.9% of motorists (or any dick on the road) in Melbourne are F#$*ED in the head. I cant stand driving in this state, everyone has a f*&%ing attitude problem! It's not only people like that, but people not giving you way when you indicate to change lanes, people speeding b/c they *THINK* you might overtake them, and the list goes on!!! For F$%^ sake get over it!!! I don't get what the big deal is if you let some other C%^T in front of you if he is indicating... I do it all the time without giving it a second thought... Or if some other motorists is exceeding the speed limit by 5 - 10km/h, I don't speed up, go behind him and point to him that he is a F^&KWIT so he can see me though his review mirror - GET OVER IT! Who the F%^K am I to follow every prick exceeding the speed limit and lecture him! I didn't realise how F*$%ED up we all are until I was driving in Europe for 2 months. I could not (and still can't) believe how stuck up we are here! Melbournians are SOOOOO uptight it is not funny! And the thing is, I know we have our F*%CKING government to blame for all of this, and not just Bracks that tool, but ever since they started clamping down heavily on speeding (which is about the same time that the road toll - per capita stoped decreasing as rapidly). Most motorists are SOOOO frustrated that they cant even speed by 1km/h that they vent those frustrations elsewhere, and don't be surprised if people start to carry guns around in 5 - 10 years. Our roads will be just like that movie L.A. Story. Rant over for now....

Would these adjustable sway bars reduce body roll significantly on an R33 with standard springs and shocks? I am asking b/c I want to leave my car at the standard height b/c: a) trying to keep my car looking as stock as possible B) keep the standard ride height for comfort reasons as it is my daily driver but I dont like the amount of body roll the R33 has when cornering sometimes. would I be wasting my money? thanks Zahos

Hey bangahh, sorry mate I never got back to you, but I have been busy with a new job, and I haven't seen my car in weeks, nor will i see it for a few more to take a pic for ya. So I drew this crappy one in paint so you get the idea of how to do it yourself. Fist pic is the stock setup, and second is the norgren setup. You may want to mount them in a different location to make the hoses shorter, but i did not notice any spiking with the hoses this length. Also everything in theis pictures may not be in it's exact location, but you get the idea. If you do not have the check valve, then dont wory about that part, but if you do, then make sure you install it in the direction pictured (ie flowing from after the last valve -> to before the first) I mounted the valves with those stock little brackets they came with. Make sure you have changed the springs inside the valves as the article states. have fun Zahos

I'd be very careful of the return piping scraping on driveways and such. I scraped my return piping and wedged it out of place a little. Then on boost it blew off. There is little chance though of that happening the way these are designed (mine was custom made).

dude, it's up to you, whatever you prefer in looks, and what you prefer to drive. The GT-R feels like a different car to drive, it is soooo much nicer behind the wheel. In terms of looks, it is personal preference. I think R33GT-R is the best looking of all skylines. R34 has better interior... Dun look at what other people think... whatever you think will make you happier. I am in a similar situation now - I am tossing between an R32 GT-R and R33 GTS25t (it is all my budget will allow), and my concerns with the GT-R are: a) age B) I dun like the dashboard but the performance and drivability of the GT-R cancel out the ugly dashboard factor for me, and age - well if I manage to get something stock with low km's (I plan to keep it stock), I know I will look after it. Sure I'll have wear and tear to attend to much earlier, but I love driving a GT-R over a GTSt, and that's what makes me happier. make a list with pro's and cons for both cars, then give them a rating of importance. It might help you make up your mind. If it were me, I'd go the GT-R any day, mostly b/c it is sooo much nicer to drive!

when the chasis rail bends in an accident, they usually get it onto a jig to straighten it up (if they do it right, it would probably be straighter than when it left the factory), and then they re-enforce the rail where it was bent. It should end up being stronger and straighter than it was before the accident - if the panel beater is good.

it has a holden badge, it is not a holden.... it's an opel... a german car but then again the aircon may be a holden item

the triggered hose was part of stage 1 water restricions. Stage 2 does not allow you to was your car unless you have a preassure sprayer that flows less than X litres per hour (I forget what X is).

it could be, but it's just one of those things you woould have to investigate. It sounds very likely though. And that is exactly what happened with me, except i was running 9 - 10 psi to begin with.

it shouldn't. if you look at the back of the coil pack (the tallest part), it is sealed off with an epoxy - not much different to araldite. Well this is what I was told when I took them to get plastic welded. I told the dude that temps around the coil get quite hot, and he said it wont be an issue. Tell is if the silicone sticks, and I was told not many thinks will stick to this type of thermoplastic besides araldite. So there may be a concern of the silicone peeling off after a few weeks or so.

Silcone is a good insulator, but I don't know if it will stick to the particular type of plastic the coil packs are made of. At the plastic welding place I went to, I asked what alternatives there are to araldite, and he said possibly fibre glass (just the resin, which is also an epoxy), but nothing will stick better than araldite. Why are you pushing for other alternatives? In regards to gap, theoretically, yes.... you can increase your gap now for a bigger spark.

well, I've had the $89 GMC preassure washer for over a year now, and it does the job just fine. The only think I hate, is that the hose is too short, and I have to lug the thing around with me. Since you only use it weekends, get a cheapo, dont waste your money. Just go up to about $150 for a half decent one, with a long enough hose (5m would be ideal)

I just cleaned it up with thinners. Dont use turps, b/c that has a bit of oil in it. If you want to sand it down, go for it, but just dont wipe it with your bare fingers, use a clean cloth.

Did you look at this thread first? The cracks can be very very hard to spot sometimes. Took me a few minutes of staring at one coil before I found it.

OK, I see what you are saying. I like that Idea. The inlet on the airbox lid looks more than adeqaute enough to flow enough air, especially for my power levels, but i always thought the snorkel looked a little restrictive. Hmmm, I might give that a try myself. Do you guys have any pics? Interested in making a few for a group buy or something? Actually even a mini tutorial as to how you made it would be good. Zahos

Yeah, that's what I was implying with that post. It pops, and misfires at around that point at WOT. Even if you fix your coils, at higher boost, best case scenario is that instead of popping and misfire, you will get a flat spot at around that point. You will need a new ECU, or a SAFC to retune your air to fuel ratios, as they get VERY rich at around that point with higher boost. I think that timing gets retarded too b/c of the overfuelling, hence the massive flat spot / misfire. Even with a SAFC, b/c it runs leaner after a tune, the timing does not suffer as much. I only have a SAFC, and I have NO flatspot. In fact, where the flat spot used to be, there is actually a tiny surge or power. Below is a pic of my dyno graph before and after the SAFC. (Note on the first run - green, my tuner backed off b/c the A/F ratios went crazy. Then sensor he was using to measure the A/F ratios was buggered and he replaced it after a couple of runs.)

SK and Bass Junky, are either of you adding another inlet to the airbox for this scoop, or are you simply re designing your own snorkel to work more efficiently? I tried making an auxiliary snorkel that goes behind the passenger headlight in the R33, but was very limited in materials / tools, so I couldn't do it. (I had cut a hole out in front of the airbox lid). I then made a partition and sealed the engine bay off from the side of the airbox (which worked well, but looked a little dodgy), but I have since broken it, as it was made from perspex, which is very brittle, especially after heating it up to re-shape it. Can you please provide details/pics (especially if it is the latter) as I am very interested. Zahos

so i guess you didn't bother, and can't be bothered to search.... here you go: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51046