Zahos

ok, thanks for that. So the size is the same, and all I need to know now is if the snorkel is the same, or in the same position. I'm guessing they would not have bothered designing a seperate airbox for the N/A version, as it is not cost effective.

bump

Can anyone tell me if they are the same? I can get an airbox off an RB25DE, but it will be be for an RB25DET. I really only need the lid and dont care about the rest. thanks Zahos

i put my dump, cat and cat back about 2 years ago with no glue, just gaskets, no leaks. do it right, and it should be ok.

sorry, sold

there is a post on here somewhere that points to a website that details EVERYTHING you could possibly do to contest it. The guy has a book out named "beneath the radar". Look around for it, as it is very useful info...

why cut the wires? there is a plug right near it, just unplug it.. as for the hoses, leave those connected the way they are...

- Even one cracked coil can cause a lot of hesitation! - i was getting it between 4500 - 5500 rpm, and after that it was all good, it would rev out nicely... - When i taped mine the problem went away, but after a week or two, came back b/c the tape shrunk on the coils, exposing parts of the crack once again - I would be doing this to ALL of the coils, regardless of wheather there is a crack there or not, as it could crack soon anyhow as the others have....

It might bleed more than 2psi, as at 10psi there is more flow... I don't think the R33 monitors boost and shuts/opens the solenoid accordingly, otherwise, people that have done the factory solenoid mod, would be getting spikes well above 7psi. just put the actuator on (R32), then disconnect the plug on he boost solenoid, and you'll be fine...

R33 has a factory fitted boost controller. It starts to bleed air off at abour 5000 rpm. If you remove it, or disconnect it, you would only ever run 5psi... it is a very easy job, just can get fiddly, especially if you have large hands...

It would run 10psi al the time... if you then used a single stage to bleed a few psi off, there would be less spiking.. R33 actuator has 5psi spring R32 has 10 psi spring a bleed valve has to bleed more off with R33 actuator to acheive same result... i just leave the R32 actuator and i dun bleed anything off. 10psi is plenty for me, as he car is a daily driver....

Gee You used a fair bit then.... I could have gotten away with the tiny tubes you bu for $5... Did you cover the entire coil? I only covered the section at the front that is most prone to cracking. I had the syringe from another job i did last year and I still haven't used half... I did all 6, 3 times also putting a little on each time to avoid dripping... I gave it about 1 hour between coats, and let them rest in different positions each time so the glue runs in the direction i want it to, also moulding it as it dries... here's some pics I just took of mine...

I've played aound with SH!T LOADS of bleeds valves, flow control valves and crap lik thatm and best of the pneumatic type was the one in this article. BUT, the best mod you could do for boost is to get another wastegate actuator. I bought a wastegate actuator from an R32 for $50. The R32 wastegate actuator has a 10psi spring, and holds 10psi from 3000 - 3500 rpm all the way to redline! If I wanted 12psi now... I just need to bleed off 2psi raher than 7psi, and it would not spike as much... If you want to do it properly, find yourself an R32 wastegate actuator, or buy an adjustable one. Do a search on this, It's been covered plenty. Zahos

there was a guy in NT (I think), who had his R31 station wagon do more than 1,000,000 km without a rebuild. I think a mate of mine still has the newspaper clipping... Yeah, you are kinda asking "How long is a piece of string?", but I gather you want to know how long you can go without a rebuild if properly looked after... I don't see why you cant get more than 300,000 km (assuming the previous owner looked after it too). But I expect the turbo to let go before that...

hahahahaha, I just realised.... ur funny

So you are saying the entire country deserves the same punishment a small group of extremists does??? Sorry, but that was a very stupid comment!!! I have friends from Iraq, tha told me of the horrible lives they led there, people more gentle than you and I, and you say that these people need to be governed by tyrant such as Suddam? People here are becoming as bad as Americans! I am suprised how many people know absolutely nothing about any other part of the world, except the one they live in..... Attached is an example of the perception the U.S. people have on the rest of the world... We might need another one done here...

This thread follows on from this other thread, where people were having problems on boost b/c of cracked coils. In most cases coils were not actually faulty themselves, but due to fatigue, or who knows what, had developed small cracks where the spark could jump from..... (I guess same principal as cracking the ceramic coating on a spark plug). Anyhow, I said I was going to follow up on this issue by reporting the progress of my coils where I melted more plastic over the crack with a soldering iron, and also get them plastic welded, as I feared the melted plastic would not stick due to the fact that they are made differently, and that they didn't fuse together properly. MELTING: The plastic I melted on is showing signs that it is coming off (as expected), so don't bother trying this... seriously! PLASTIC WELDING: I took a spare set of coils I have to get plastic welded, and after testing the plastic, I was told they could not be welded! They said some plastics can't be done, and this is one of them!!!! BUT.. he made a very good suggestion. EPOXY GLUE: If you look at the back of your coils (the tallest part), you will notice it is a clear / yellow type of plastic, unlike the rest of the coil. This in fact is simply made from an epoxy resin (like Selley's Araldite), and that's all it is! So rather than spending my money on welding that would have cost me a few $$$, he told me that spending $5 on some selley's Araldite would be by far the best option. Simply clean the surface VERY WELL, and mix up some Araldite and slap it on - problem solved! And you shouldn't have to worry about it coming off! Only thing is, you will need to give it about 48 hours to dry properly (maybe more), before you can put them back on. Hope this helps a few of you out there. Zahos EDIT: Added a crappy pic of where to put glue (area in red)

for NA motor 14.7:1 is safe, but not for a turbo.... the only time 14.7 is ok, is at idle and very low revs (< 2000 rpm). Once on boost 11.5:1 - 12:1 are safe ratios.

Check this picture out. It shows where they crack. On 4 of my coil packs, i had to hold them a certain angle in the sunlight to see the crack b/c it was so thin. On most of the ones I bought, I could see it quite easily. I would be getting all 6 plastic welded, even the ones that aren't cracked. They crack because of fatigue in the plastic. A cracked cover on a coil does not mean that the coil has anything else wrong... it usually still functions, but poorly. The ones that aren't cracked are almost certain to do so, whether it be in the near or distant future.... Zahos

Well I now have an answer for this question about a week I have also posted in this thread, my current status... I purchased 6 coils from intersate only to find they were all cracked too! In my moment of frustration, I grabbed my soldering iron, and the lid of a can of black spray paint I melted plastic from the lid, over the cracks on my coils. I melted heaps to fill those suckers in..... (NOTE: At this point, i wasn't try to fix the problem, but the cracks had p!ssed me off, and I have a very bad temper... So it was do this, or smash the coils into little tiny pieces with a sledge hammer) Anyhow, back on track, I melted heaps of plastic over all 6 of my original coils (only 4 were cracked). I put them back on, still pesemistic at this stage.... (I also slapped on an R32 wastegate actuator the same day, and it was misfiring at 4500 - 5500 rpm at 10psi). I started the car, and it idled just fine... actually smoother than before.... I took it for a drive, and once adequatly warm (15 mins of driving). and also in an appropriate speed zone, I let it redline in 2nd gear... nothing... No hessitation, no misfire, just smooth linear power to 7000rpm! (NOTE: I also have a SAFC2 to sort my A:F ratios) So now I'm thinking plastic welding sounds like a good option for people with cracked coils. (dunno why I didn't think of this earlier). It's still early stages yet (4 days so far), and I dont expect my coils to hold up. Only because melting plastic with a soldering iron like I did, only melted the new plastic I put on. The plastic on the coils was still cold, so I dont think the 2 fused together properly. SO... I think that with time, the plastic I melted on will un-stick from the coils. I'll report back in a few weeks though, and let people know how it goes. Has any1 had quotes for plastic welding before, and if so, can they approximate what 6 coils will cost to get welded based on that? Zahos

:werd: I have read "it's probably boost cut" about 1,000,000 times, but have never read 1 case where that WAS the problem.... I once tuned my boost controller too far and got boost cut, or my AFM maxing out.. whatever you wanna call it, but it was off the guage (over 1.5 bar! (> 21 psi) How much over, I have no idea b/c that's all my guage goes up to) If a SAFC doesn't fix the problem, (it will definately make it much better), then you have faulty and/or cracked coils. If the coils are cracked, but not faulty (which it sounds to be the case, otherwise it would run like a dog constantly), then it's an easy fix, just get the cracks plastic welded. Once your coils are sorted and your A/F ratio's are sorted, then you could re-gap them to 0.8mm (bigger gap, bigger spark / smaller gap, stronger spark - but there has to be a tradeoff) I got a SAFC and it cured my problem.... then it came back.... So I taped my coils up as described in another thread, but the tape shrunk, and the cracks appeared again.... SO I used a soldering iron to melt some plastic over the cracks in my coils and it runs soooo smooth now.... I don't know how long it will last, but I'm guessing not that long as melting plastic like that does not fuse the 2 together properly. Plastic welding the cracks would be a much better alternative. Good luck sorting it all out. The scenarios I have listed are the most common causes of these symptoms as discovered by people when they sorted it out. Boost cut is the most common answer you will get from keyboard tuners. Zahos

If you search on this topic, you will find that one or more of the following 3 solutions will fix your problem.... - spark plug (gap/heat range). You will find coppers gapped at 0.7 - 0.8 mm will work best for you. For a street driven car with basic mods (FMIC, boost, exhaust, SAFC/PFC , etc), stay with a warmer heat range - 6. - coils: measure the resistance accross all coils when cold, make note of it. Then meassure them again when hot. You will find faulty coils will have a different resistance to a healthy coil when warm. - A:F ratios. Get it on a dyno to see what your A:F ratios are like where it pops. I'm guessing they will be extremely rich at that point. A SAFC will help you sort those out, or even better, a PFC to help with your timing issues also... Zahos

I remeber once when I was getting a dyno tune, the sensor used to measure my A/F ratios was stuffed, and I was getting really lean readings. The tuner changed the sensor, which them showed I was running quite rich... could be a possibility...

Job: Software Engineer Employer: Always changing - contractor

That's exacly right! I have killed 2 cats and 1 bird for this reason.... Instead of swerving, hit them... But DO NOT hit them with your tyre(s), or you could end up in just as much trouble. Try go over them, it's much safer that way...