Zahos

How does it get sucked back in through the exhaust ports? I thought that would be impossible since they are only ever blowing air out, not sucking in...

You're SOOO lucky, I kept the emails from my last place of business, as I have emails from him, from when I was looking for an R33 3 or 4 years ago... Dunno if he is still in business.... John Whiteman Phone: 03 5429 6900 Fax: 03 5429 5900 Mobile:0407 185 300 http://www.importcars.com.au

hahaha, I knew someone would say that.... 1. I REALLY CBF starting a group buy - sorry guys 2. I would feel bad charging people, thus I would not bother installing for people 3. I don't have the time.... I could tell you where to get everything though, to set it up yourself... look for IMI Norgren Pty Ltd in the white pages. Call and order the following: 1 x R07-200-RNKG Inline 07 ¼ Regulator Relieving 7Bar 1 x V07-200-NNKG Inline 07 ¼ Relief Valve 7 Bar 2 x 2069-02 07 Spring 0.7 Bar (brown) Maybe ask if they have a spring rated to 1 bar instead of a 0.7 bar spring then go to enzed (heaps around) and get: brass York 23151-06 3/8-inch check valve, (or equivalent, as long as the cracking pressure is less than say 2psi) and hoses + barbed fittings + clamps to suit. Speak to the guys at Enzed about the hoses, fittings and clamps, they should sort you out. The valves come with their own brackets, and I mounted mine next to the air box in the engine bay.

You set it up wrong, that's why it does that. You need to close the first valve off a bit... if you have a wastegate actuator rated at 5psi, your relief valve set to 11 psi, and your regulator set to 10psi, then it will behave badly as you have noticed. I had the same problem when i first played around with mine, but then I figured out how to re-adjust them, and it works perfectly for me...

Maybe you should see my power curve before commenting on it.... Steve-SST, My point was that dyno figures dont really mean that much IMHO... To me it was important to sort out the A/F ratios and from that obtain a nice power curve. I dont have a scanner sorry to post it up, but it was tuned my ICE performance in cheltenham on a dyno dynamics dynometer.

then it's not looking too good for that synchro..... does it crunch when you double clutch?

start off by changing the oil in your gearbox. Try either: - redline: a lot of people swear by it.. but at $100 to fill the gearbox, I dont bother. You problem seems to be pretty bad though, so maybe you would benefit from it... - Castrol VMX80 + roil (what I used and I cant even make it crunch now, no matter how hard i try) I had a small crunch, so thats why I dont feel a thing now. In your case, it may just reduce it, so that maybe you can double clutch to get into 5th and not ever crunch.

yeah, they dont mean much... i got 200rwkw with 9psi, NOT in shootout mode, and we ran the car 15 times to get a perfect 12:1 A/F ratio

shannons is very good too. when some tool in a BM rammed me off the road, and tried to pass it off as my fault (no witnesses at 11pm wed night), they immediately dismissed the idea it was my fault over the phone after I gave them the complete story and had an accessor come out in a few days to look at the damage and check out my quotes (choice of repairer). They were always helpful over the phone... Thay also have the cheapest excess i know of.... a flat rate of $600, no extra for theft, etc... Just cars have cheap premiums, but their excess was double and tripple (depending on what type of claim). what is it about the wording??? what is the excess they have given you? You are 25, so I thought you should be fine...

I wouldn't say a fraction... E-manage is better than SAFC, but for what this guy wants ~200rwkw, I wouldn't bother, as you can easily achieve this with a SAFC. the e-manage in terms of tuning has a better resolution for fuel mapping, and allows you to re-map (or alter) ignition maps with the ignition harness. SAFC also allows you use Z32 AFM as well. The resolution on the SAFCII is pretty good.. I got my A/F ratios to a flat 12:1 (with the exceptio of 1 tiny dip where it goes to 11.5:1). So yes, e-manage is better, but for the goals we are talking about here, the price, effort for tuning, and cost of tuning mean the SAFCII would be a better option.

could you elaborate on that?

how much of a difference would you say the exhaust cam gear made Robo? Not just in terms of rwkw, but in terms of tuning? what made you decide to get it?

What you're experiencing is more than likely a misfire due to overfueling and subsequently your timing being retarded... not boost cut. If it feels fine after 6000rpm, then it's not boost cut. if you don't want to spend much money, then go SAFC. If you dont mind spening $600b- $1000 extra (for the difference in the cost of the unit + tuning), then go the PFC. For the cost of the e-manage + ignition loom + tuning (which I think is more expensive as most tuners are more proficient with PFC which keeps costs down a little), you might as well go for the PFC..... I got 200rwkw with a SAFCII + front mount + 3" turbo back + 9psi, I dont see why you cant hit that figure with 12psi + SAFC + good tuning

1 - you are definately running too rich at that RPM due to your increase in boost. The standard ECU does this. Subsequently, timing is pulled when your car runs this rich and you will get that dreaded flat spot / misfire from ~4000rpm up to ~6000 rpm. 6000rpm - 7000rpm it feels fine, doesn't it? (search for: misfire boost SAFC hesitation) 2 - You could have some small cracks in your coil packs, causing your spark to jump around there. This ma or MAY NOT be a problem for you... see this thread for the solution. The first has been covered HEAPS, as just about every R33 driver has experienced this at some stage, so you should find lots of info... You will definately need some sort of aftermarket management - PFC OR a piggy back to correct your A/F ratios - SAFC. These 2 are the most common choices, I went for the SAFC as I could not afford the combined price of a PFC and tuning that went along with it. The SAFC II (with installation and tuning) cost about $600 - $650 all up and fixed the problem for me. Zahos

the K&N cleaning kit specifically says not to use metho... the kits K&N sell will last you ages, u might as well get one it includes the soap, the spray on oil and instructions

Mine was missing like crazy at around 4500-5500 rpm before I intalled and tuned my SAFC. With the SAFC tuned it was as smooth as a baby's arse! I developed a miss again lately, but that b/c of the coil pack cracking. Now with the coils taped up.... it's like a baby's arse again

I've heared quite a few cars do this when the exhaust cover (around the front pipe) is a little banged up and it rattles against the front pipe as the exhaust resonates...

You do realise you have made a reference to the very same thread you posted in... Good question. I think the loom for the coils is wrapped in electrical tape, and that has help up since the car came out of the factory. So as long as you use good quality tape it should be OK I guess....

Try this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=32356 It has been the solution for many including myself. If you talking about an RB25DET, then they are notorious for isfiring above 4500 RPM on higher than standard boost. - a SAFC or PFC with mixtures leaned out to 12:1 will GREATLY help. - copper plugs gapped at 0.8 (BCPR6E) - and coils taped up like describd in the post above... A SAFC fixed my problem, but the misfire came back recently... I just finished taping up my coils, now the mis has completely gone... Give it a go... it will only cost you 1-2 hours and a couple of $$ in tape...

I have a Super dragger, although mine has a resonator after the cat (not hot dog style) and it is not loud at all. It actually sounds quite nice, and it is not very audiable fron the cabin. It does hang low though, which is annoying. If you were only worried about noise, then just whack on a resonator, it will make a big difference to sound. I would keep it b/c these exhausts flow very well apparently... Zahos

YEP, I can DEFINITELY recommend SUPERFINISH, just near the corner of south rd and warrigal rd (also on Cochrains rd) Moorabbin. I went there through my insurance company, and the job was even better than I hoped it would be.... I had my front right guard damaged and my bumper skin... They resprayed both, and rather than just blending the bumper and bonnet, they re-sprayed them both.... So now my car looks better than it did before the accident... I just got a courtesy call from them 2 days ago asking if I was happy with the job, and if there are any problems I have noticed that they can fix... I was VERY surprised that did this considering it was through insurance... Anyhow, I did notice a week later, that the front left guard was not blended properly with the bumper and bonnet (guy must have missed it)... So when I told him, he said to bring it in, and they will fix it up for me... Now this is the kind of service I like, and the kind I like to reward by taking any of my future business to these guys, and by HIGHLY recommending them to others... Speak to Greg or Con, ad tell them George with the Pearl Red R33 sent you, as he was impressed with not only the workmanship but also the service. I took my car to about 5 places when I was getting quotes, and half of them didn't notice it was pearl paint and quoted metallic, others didn't want to blend things in, etc. Greg was VERY attentive to detail, and picked up a few things even I didn't notice (and I'm a very fussy bastard)... They told me it would take no more than 8 working days, and they had it back to me in 6 Anyhow, that's my experience with them, hope it helps Zahos

Hey Jay, I notice you've got the upgraded pressure regulator there. Did it make a big difference in controlling boost? was it worth the extra $$$??? Zahos

In late 90's (about 98 I think), I saw a red Ford XF Falcon (immac) with L plates flip the lights on and pull over some guy on millitary rd, avondale heights.... That freaked me out, as by then the car was at least 10 years old.....

My sister had this problem when my nephew decided to start sticking coins in her steering wheel... there were heaps in there, and as she turned the wheel the horn would sound.... sounds like something has come loose in there, or something has gone in... does the horn sound when you press the button(s) ???

then I'll give you $45, I pay shipping... I have seen these go for $45 - $60 (sometimes more, but no-one buys them over that) in comtrader.com.au