Zahos

if you pay shipping to melb, I'll take it....

hahahahahaha EXACTLY why I never bother to post much on forums... There have been countless times I have begun constructing a response to a question or assertion, and half way through I have realised "One of these internet genius' will definately start an argument here", so I just forget about posting..... If it were all verbal, I would express my opinion, but usually I really cant be bothered typing a detailed explanation as to why someone's response or attitude is worthless just like JimX has...... Well done JimX, take a bow indeed, but it pissed me off that you were forced into typing that response when you shouldn't have had to... Zahos

Potentially yes, in reality NO Once you benefit from the extra kw from a better fuel curve, your right foot will suddenly get a lil heavier... Most tuners only go for a leaner fuel curve at WOT, and don't bother tuning at low throttle. So in terms of better fuel economy it kinda cancels itself out b/c it only happens at WOT.... If you ask your tuner to tune it at low and High throttle positions, you will potentially see some better fuel economy for everyday driving, but I would say the difference would be close to negligible.

Considering your mods, that is quite strange. With most RB25DET's running higher than stock boost, the reason there is a flat spot in this rev range is b/c of the A/F ratio's getting very rich. Timing is also retarded at this point. If your coils have any fractures in the casing, it will also misfire. Best solution is aftermarket management or a SAFC to correct the fule mixtures. There are quite a few threads covering this topic, search around and you will find a few solutions that have worked for others in the past... Zahos

inark, try shannons... They are usually pretty competitive once you have quite a few mods, and they look after you well too. Their excess is much cheaper than just cars ($600 vs $1500 in my case for an R33), and they can give you the choice of salvaging the wreckage if that were the case and so on.... Their level of service has been second to none in my case, so give them a go... Zahos

The job was done quite well. Couldn't pick a flaw with it.... Mind you I forgot to mention it was all outter edges of the silhouette wheels only, but even if it were double the price, it would still be cheap. I had to take the wheels off the car and take them to him.

i had a set on my old silhouette. very nice height, and they were still comfortable whilst stiff. I suggest you get shortened arm shocks to match, as the standard shocks WILL bottom out, I guarantee 100%. The handling will be crap with standard shocks too. I also had a set of king springs, I thought the lovells were much better.

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0685/article.html In this part 2 of the original, they use a better pressure regulator, and also install a check valve so your BOV can do it's job... I have the check valve, but not the upgraded regulator.

I have been using the same boost controler for almost 2 years now, and i must say it's great. I also have put in the check valve from the DIY boost controller part 2, and I think it is an essential to help remove all air going to the wastegate actuator on gear changes... I was also thinking of upgrading to the better pressure regulating valve as the norgren valve is not so good in terms of fine adjustment... My hoses are much longer than yours, as I have my valves mounted in the engine bay next to the air box, and I have never had any issues with spiking either. This setup is much better than any bleed valve, or any other pheumatic valve setup i have used before, and is more cost effective than an EBC.

if people are having problems with the tape coming off, why not try buying a tube from a push bike? Like a racer where the tires are very skinny, and then cutting small sections of it to cover the coil...

i got all 4 wheels polished (R31 silhouette wheels) for $80 about 5 years ago. thats $80 all 4, not $80 each... It was called sunshine metal polishing, i think on webber pde in east keilor. Just rock up one sat morning or weekday and get a quote... Zahos

where did you get it, and what did it cost? What spring rating did you get? I've been looking for an R32 actuator for ages now, and it seems that I'll never find one seperated, and people dont want to seperate one from an RB20 turbo. Zahos

200 rwkw@9psi 350km hard driving ~390 granny shifting

with a full turbo back exhaust, hi-flow cat and FMIC I run about 8psi (0.55 kg/cm^2) I would suggest completing your exhaust first before anything... a FMIC is almost useless, unless you can raise the boost with a decent amount of air flow. To save money on a boost controller for now, there is a thread here that explains how to switch you standard solenoid to run in high boost mode all the time. Once you have invested in a good pneumatic valve setup (the norgren valve in this and then this articles, that Sydneykid mentioned), you should then move on to a better intercooler. (I use the norgren valve setup myself -including the check valve in part 2, and it works rather well for me) Your next step would then be aftermarket management, or a SAFC to lean out your mixtures to a flat 12:1 A/F ratio. Getting aftermarket management once you have done all these mods, will save you cash on tuning, as you do it once rather than after every mod. Keep in mind, that you wont see a big gain after every mod, until you go the aftermarket management. The standard ECU will richen fuel mixtures and retard timing when you start running more boost as a safety measure and rob you of power. That's the most cosst effective approach I can think of for basic mods, and it is the path I took after reading many users posts about their experiences.

This is what a real wanker looks like:

Fair enough, it it's tried and tested with extra crunchy gearboxes, then why not. For me the crunch was only apparent going from 2nd -> 4th, and it wasn't that bad. If I went 3rd -> 4th it never happened... If I gunned it off the line, up to 60km/h in 1st, then straight to fourth it happened every time. Now that the roil has done over 700km in my gearbox I cannot get it to crunch at all..... Notchyness has been reduced, and the gears go in much smoother now, and the car feels great. I will definately using this stuff again.... Zahos

that was more directed at Seriou-Seven... I did not find Jive's comments that offensive b/c I understand his anger ATM

Hey, I'm Greek, and I agree with you Jive that those guys are a bunch of d!ckheads that deserve a good beating..... Doesn't matter what race they are, there are d!ckheads on this earth of all sorts.... You should have gone STRAIGHT to a cop shop, and tried to get them to go back with you! A bit of a long shot, but worth a try... I understand your anger, and thus your decision to take it our on an entire race, so let me just say that makes you immature yourself. To anyone here non-Greek, saying anything about greeks... Whatever race you are... you and the rest of em are all butt f*cking mother f*ckers... I seen every single one of you licking your daddy's arse crack whilst fisting your mothers... Does that make sense..... NO Is it accurate.... NO When 1 person makes a generalised accusation on an entire race based on their experience with a few d!ckheads, do THEY then look like a d!ckhead... YES Just trying to make a point..... For those of you that have offended me, I am not trying to offend you, I just want you to see how stupid you come accross.

dun tell me only the leeches have been downloading..... I have had it running since last night, and I have only downloaded 200Mb and uploaded 300Mb.... Comon people, make sure you leave it open after you finish downloading so the rest of us can get it!

that is freaky! what car was it in.... anyhow, I ain't no granny driver myself, I do like to reach the speed limit in a very short period of time, but that still doesn't tell me that the oil I use isn't good enough, hence why i still can't justify the cost.... If I were reaching speeds of 200km, then I would consider moving to a better product, but i still think that there are no gains for me in particular at the moment.

I think he means the entire car ferni (correct me if I'm wrong) B/c there is not as much friction in a gearbox, as there is say in a combustion engine, and if the manufacturer has specified that Castrol VMX-80 is suitable for my car at $35, then I choose to use that oil in my gearbox for my daily driven street car. So how can I justify spending about 3 times as much when the product I use does it's job just fine. I dont understand why people are so dead set on Redline for their daily drivers gearbox's and diffs..... You're just blowing your money away... but hey, to you thats just my opinion... If it were a track car, or something that were exposed to much punishment, then I would definately be looking at alternative oils more suited for that application. In a combustion engine (where friction levels get much higher), I can see why people opt to go for oils that dont degrade as easily with heat and preassure.... and thats why I choose to add roil to my engine.... (based on claims that I now believe to be true) But IMHO, standard gearboxes, in a daily driven skyline, will be just fine with VMX-80. Thats why not.

F***ing arseholes make speeding by 5km over the limit look so bad with their recent advertising campaigns, and yet, when one of their wn do it, it is expected they incur minor infringements?? OH, I see, so it's no big deal when you do, but if I do I'll be stonned to death by an angry mob b/c of your ad campaigns?

Castrol VMX-80 Cant justify spening $100 on Redline stuff for a daily driver...

I dun think there are plasma monitors, and even if there are... STAY AWAY!!! Plasma screens work with gas, and it can get quite hot on static images (and computers have static images dislayed a lot of the time they are on), and static images will actually burn into your screen. The gas has a life of 10,000 hours, 40,000 at best. If you read the manufacturers warnings, most of em tell you not to pausemovies, or play games on their plasma TV's, b/c you will burn static images into your screen, thus degrading picture quality. go with the LCD

OK, Time to post my results... I added roil to both engine and gearbox. Engine: - after 100 - 200 km, I noticed it was actually harder to start the car... - after 400km, it went back to how it was.... weird - after 500km, I noticed the engine felt a lot smoother at low-mid revs - after 700km, even better. Also noticed there is a lil more power / torque at lower revs, just enough to actually feel the difference. - Oil pressure now is much more stable, and the car feels almost like new... hmmm Gearbox: I've done about 300-400km with the stuff in I have a notchy 2nd gear, and developed a crunchy 4th gear. I can avoid these however by leaving the gear selector in neutral for 0.5 sec before selecting those gears. With roil it is much less likely to happen... infact, when I think about it, I cant remember my 4th gear crunching lately, and I have been putting it straight in! 2nd is still notchy though... This is what I expected of the product at best when I bought it, and it is what I got... so no complaints here. The most impressive thing to me, is the fact that my engine feels very smooth now.