Zahos

S on the end stands for standard copper plug Hence BCPR6E = V groove gapped at 0.8 BCPR6ES = non V groove gapped at 0.8 Although they fit, BKR would have the incorrect thread reach, whouch could result in a build-up of carbon deposits (see http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htm ) - wait, this is for a GT-R, so I'm not entirely sure which is correct, but make sure you get the righ one. Easiest way, is ask for the recommended platinum plug for your GT-R, a BCPR and a BKR, and compare them. Zahos

Coppers provide a better a spark, as copper is a much better conductor. check here: http://www.eddy-current.com/condmat.htm Iridium's last longer as it is a MUCH harder metal than copper, and are not as prone to thermal and chemical breakdown. Go to this website for more info: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm120032.htm Bosch have a silver core or silver plated plugs. Silver is a very good conductor, much better than iridium (up to 4 times better), but I don't know much about these, as i have heared no reviews, and they have limited info on their website: http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/pcPlug5.asp?c=2&d=1 So really you need to figure out what is best for you.... If it's a daily driver.... copper if you take it to the track often, and want long intervals between changes.... iridium if you take it to the track, and change often.... copper but again, these are my personal opinions, and everyone else has theirs..... Zahos

SEECS chicks rock!..... NOT I did SE at melb uni several years ago..... and let me tell u that the Eng department at melb uni can deprive your sex life..... Did u know that it is b/c of me they put those proxies in place for web surfing..... Uni was fun, wish i still had that carefree life!

I was about to say the same thing.... but shame ur not in melb.... Can i also have some pics please here Thanks

look at the SAFC wiring diagram for your model. It will tell you what wires to splice, and which to cut and intercept for the AFM. This should help you, but really when u think about it, only 1 wire should be cut anyhow, so dont stress about that.

let us know how u go

the AFM wire on the ecu is cut when installing a SAFC, to intercept and adjust it, it is not spliced like the rest. Have you shorted the AFM wires together after the SAFC was stolen? If not, then your ECU thinks your AFM is not connected / fubar so it is in limp home mode.

thats right, 1 inch difference = 1/2 ince sidewall difference, 2.54/2 = 1.27 cm

why? For someone that has done several R33's with confidence, it is a simple case of splicing / intercepting a few wires, and sticking double sided tape to a bracket....... why should it take any longer??? Remeber we are talking about a professional here, not a novice....

2 hours to install??????? it's only a few wires.... I'd say if have done if before, should only take you 15 - 20 mins MAX! 1 hour if you have never done it before, and you are triple checking everything..... Tuning takes longer and is more expensive. Expect to pay up to $150 on that depending on what you want..... I wanted to A/F ratios to be a perfect 12:1 all through the rev range, so he took a little longer with me, hence I paid more (about $140 i think) But anyone that charges over $50 to install one is ripping you off (unless they are making some sort of custom mount for it, then you pay for that too)

Nissan wanted $42 for them here in melb.

thats funny you all say that, coz i get into 1st quite smoothly < 15km/h if I double clutch and rev match... it almost goes in itself.... (if u need to know why, think about coming to an uphill intersection, and just as you're about to stop, the lights go green) I haven't really tried anything over that, coz like most ppl say, u dont really need to.... But as a general rule of thumb, if it struggles to get into first gear while moving, then dont!

I didn't get a PM yet I wanted prices, and HP rating of - Heavy Duty - Heavy Duty button and - Sports Organic it u can get it.... Thanks

yep, I'll be needing a new clutch in the up and coming few months. This sort of thing would be great....

yeah, i know what u mean.... like guys who grew up with a holden in the family and only ever buy holdens b/c of that, and piss on Fords when they see them...... and vice versa doesn't change the fact that a VL is a piece of shit with good motor

maybe thats why i never bought one????? When i was looking for cars, I'd seen too many VL's with rattling interiors, mismatched gaps between panels, even warped centre consoles.... Besides have you seen how SH!TTY the VL interior is????? Apparently, they blew most of their budget sourcing the RB30 (including research, to find a suitable replacement for the 202), so they were restricted in what they could interior wise... Even the Calais is shocking...... Do you need to own one to know that the build quality is shit?

I had an R31 silhoutte for 6 - 7 years, and I never had a problem with it. Build quality was much better than a VL, same as interior and handling. Have you seen the interior on a VL??? It's a SHOCKER!!!! The Silhouette seats were very comfortable, and things like trip computer, LSD, thick padded steering wheel make it more appealing. The VL head is more prone to cracking, as it sits a little higher than the radiator, and gets more cold air flow to it (Holden engineers missed that one?) Maybe mine was just a freakish one off, but my auto R31 (S2 - tetris lights ) used to blow VL's away.... pulled harder than a lot of VR's too (had trouble with VN's though - straight line) I have to say I was very happy with that car, and at 300,000 K's it was still going strong, and in immaculate condition, where most VL's look like they've been through war at that stage.... Go the R31

just to clarify, do we just rock up on the day, or u need to pre book or sumthin'?

hey otto, I have the same setup, and have spent quite some time tweaking mine, and before anyone can give you any sort of confidence in their resoponse, we will need to see some pics of your setup before we can comment, but some things to look for: - did u put all the valves the right way round? - did u heck for any leaks? - did u use clamps on the connections? - Are the barbed fittings screwed on correctly? - how long are the hoses? (I get a little spiking coz my hoses are long) - Also remeber that the grey valve turns clockwise to reduce wastegate creep, and the black valve turns anticlockwise to increase boost. So relief valve fully anticlockwise and regulator fully clockwise to set boost to minimum. you may have already checked these, but doesn't hurt to double check.....

ahh, didn't notice we were talking about a GTR.... dunno how the setup is on a GTR (in terms of where the wastegate actuators are fed air from), but i dont see why a variant of the audi setup cant be made..... If not, then here is an even cheaper alternative..... http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0028/article.html

Here's your best bet for a pneumatic valve.... http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0670/article.html Also put in the one way valve from, part 2 http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0685/article.html I've been using it for a while with no problems, and quite happy with it. bought the preasure relief and preasure regulator from: NORGREN PTY LTD Pneumatic Equipment 33 South Corporate Ave Rowville 3178 (03) 9213 0800 (just get them to courier it to your work if u dun have time to go) and i got the one way check valve, barbed fittings, hoses and hose clamps from: ENZED TOTAL HOSE & FITTING SERVICE Bayswater 4/ 21 Power Rd 3153 (03) 9729 8533 Fawkner 1315 Sydney Rd 3060 (03) 9357 3311 Footscray 28/ 640 -680 Geelong Rd 3011 (03) 9314 1344 *Moorabbin 193 Chesterville Rd 3189 (03) 9553 2088 Tullamarine Garden Drv 3043 (03) 9330 3544 Dandenong 8 -10 Lonsdale St 3175 (03) 9793 4588 Zahos

could even be one of the weights on your wheels (the ones they use for balancing) come loose and hitting the struts... I've seen that a few times

Yes and No..... I cut this wire, then spliced it into the (purple I think) wire, which has power with ignition on... (use a multimeter to find wich wire has power with ignition), and I thought it would disable the lock with power off.... funny thing is now, I cannot unlock the passenger door from that switch (even when i wired it back up the way it was). I can lock from the switch, but not unlock..... I can still unlock it from the drivers door lock, and with my keyless entry wich is good, but you would need a wiring diagram to make it do what u want it to do....

I think I know the place.... (is it blue)???? I went there for a wheel alignment, and the fu(knob got pissed off coz i just bought new tyres from someone else....... I told him I needed to get to work by a certain time and that i would be there 8am, and he didnt even touch the car till 8:30 - 8:40...... At one point, I wished I had my samurai sword in my boot so I could slice all his tyres to shreds... He was such a smart arse, and while I was there, he tried to rip off this old man by selling him a tyre worth less than the ones I got, for OVER 3 TIMES the price, probably b/c he drove a merc..... They wont get my buisness again... I'm suprised they are still in buisness.... DISCLAIMER: The opinions expressed above are mine, and in no way reflect the opinion of SAU

no probs, I didn't get upset true, I prefer the sleeper look, coz mainly I dont want to attract attention from others (not cops, but just general public). I hate the way my Super Dragger tip looks (5" is ric0ckulous IMHO), but i got it b/c it was a great bargain. true again, but i guess it only makes a difference at WOT, and very high rpm where you may get more back preassure b/c of that muffler. And I dun know about you, but WOT + (6000+) rpm is maybe a once or twice a week thing for me these days..... just cant get to those rpm's in traffic!