Zahos

where abouts in melb are you? Perhaps I can give you a hand, coz I've done it plenty of times....

Why is that?

where did you get the reading from? You have a series 2 and I'm not sure how you would do it.... On my series 1, I used that wire coming from the ignitor module, but the reading was all over the place coz i have an el cheao timing light... I then just used the wire(s) going to coil #1 and the reading looked good. I used my mates more reputable timing light (guessing coz he paid much more for it), to compare readings and they were the same. When adjusting your timing via CAS, you can see it doesn't take much movement to go from 15deg to 30deg. Or alternatively, you can get an old lead and modify it to go from spark plug #1 to the lead (more effort coz u gotta remove coil #1, and then get your reading from that lead. Zahos

fair enough, you probably would have looked a many more starters than I have, but i can tell you from my observations what i see...... I crank it over in the morning when cold (without letting it actually start), and it cranks over making no noise. When I release the key from the start position, the engine ceases to turn over and THEN I hear the noise. It is only after I have cranked it over and released the key from the start position I ever hear it, regardless of the car actually starting or not. So I made an intelligent guess (guesstimate) that it was the starter, then i had others confirm they had the same problem. So you say only a couple of drops of oil on the bushes and noting else? Coz I wasn't really sure on what i had to lube up. I was going to guesstimate that too

gee, i forgot all about this thread.... Bleach1, I am sure it is the starter...... A good way of testing is to crank it iver without the car starting in the mornings (eg: disconnect ignition module and crank it over). That way you dont get engine noise distracting you, and you can clearly tell it comes from the starter motor..... Sumo: starters can squeel, mine is living proof. I have yet to fix the problem, but I have been assured from a few ppl that have done it, that it is a simple case of cleaning and gresing it up. I've heared of many people (well 3 or 4, but many sounds more convincing) that have has this problem with their R33's. Also had a frind with same problem in his 5 series BMW. If u cant be stuffed doing it, your local auto elec can.

stock suspension, and 200rwkw

I recently got some Hankook K102's 225/50 R16. I would definately say they are the best bang for buck tyre. I paid $147.50 per tyre (including fitting and balancing), so $590 all up. Don't be fooled by the price, I have found them to be very responsive, just as good (or better) than/as my old semi comp Yokohama Advans. Temperature rating is A, Speed rating is Y and traction rating is A (I think the K104's are a AA traction tyre). I am very happy with traction both in the dry and wet (although I haven't given them a good workout in the wet, they are very good from what I have noticed so far). They do however squeek a bit when u break traction (my Yokohama's were silent). Only after I bought them, someone pointed me to a review stating exactly what I have said, and that they compare to many of the higher end tyres. If I can dig up that article I will post it.

Try these guys. This is where I got mine from. Bargain with them though, as they go down in price... He wanted $33 for one of those badges, but i got em down to $20 based of the fact that $33 is close to new price.... Auto Jap Parts Plus 59 -65 Webber Pde Keilor East 3033 (03) 9336 3355

dont get upset now, I was just pointing something out. I dont know you, so I have no other way of finding out you knew this..... If you knew though, I'm curious as to why (other than the sleeper look) you didnt go for a 3" tip?

I paid $250 for my HKS super dragger + $20 to weld a flange coz it was previously welded onto the cat for some reason, got the front and dump from Hi Tech in that group buy a while ago, and the 3" hi flow cat from BATMBL when he had the group buy going, installed it all myself, so I paid well under $1000 for my whole system. Sure if you got an all new jap brand fron the turbo back and got someone lese to fit it, it would cost you a pretty penny, but if you look around for a good bargain, I'm sure, and have proven you can do well for a good price!

Two 2" outlets is smaller than one 3" outlet.... surface area of circle = pi * r^2 So for 3" outlet = pi * 1.5 * 1.5 = approx 7.07 square inches And for 2 2" outlets = pi * 1 *1 * (2 pipes) = approx 6.28 square inches So your tip is essentially the equivalent of a 2.8 inch exhaust Anyhow, I cant speak for any other type of exhaust, but the HKS super dragger is great in terms of noise. Very quite compared to a lot of others, and I dare to guestimate that it will fall within limits. Only drawback is that it hangs rather low, as the pipes have minimal bends in them...

factory items

I have used both RB74's and Ultimates, and have noticed the following: - Ultimates produce MORE dust - Ultimates make absolutely NO noise AT ALL if you install the anti squell shims properly - The RB74's braking power is far more superior when they are warmed up properly - RB74's chew your discs more than Ultimates.... - You are bound to wake the dead when braking with the RB74's, even with the anti squeel shims, anti squeel glue... whatever.... I persoanlly prefer the feel of the RB74's, but I couldn't cope with the squeel. It was that loud, I was too embarassed to brake with padestrians/motorists around.... I would use the handbrake to assist me.... But the Ultimates are dead quit for me, but produce SHITE loads of dust! But anyhow I use these. For daily driving / road use, utimates are great, but if I were to use my car on a tack (cuircut), I would prefer the RB74's of the 2...... Does anyone have RB74's on the front that make absolutely NO NOISE at all? Coz I tried about 3 times installing them with the shims and with/without glue, bedded them in properly each time, machined the rotors, but just couldn't get rid of it!

For bendix part no's (for R33 GTS25t, R32 GTR, R33 GTR - non Brembo) go to http://www.bendix.com.au/media/files/44_-_74.pdf Go to Page 9 of 31 Whatever Brakes are listed for the R32 GTR also apply to the other models I listed.... Also 200sx should also be the same Zahos

where is it exactly? I was thinking of going pending to distance from my place as I have other things to do that day...

Or even better.... configure your car so it only starts whe you insert your DiCK into the ciggarette lighter.... http://www.nostart.com/

Does the roadworthy simply say the tyres are mismatched, or does it state what weight they currently are, and what your placard has listed. If not the latter why not just replace the sticker and go get it cleared??? I'm guessing though it IS the latter of the 2, so I'd try the same thing anyhow, and simply say that he made a mistake! At this point I think it is worth a go, after all the trouble you're having sourcing some tyres suited to some sticker some moron slapped on at random!

Last night 3 little sh1ts (aged: 12, 8, 7 - approx) rang my doorbell. My wife calls me over and says 3 kids wanna wash your car.... I go outside and these 3 little sh1ts are asking me if its turbo, what top speed is, blah, blah blah.... Then they start BEGGING me to let them wash it! They kept going on and on! Then one of them looks at the speedo and says: "It only goes to 180, my mums commodore is faster coz it goes to 220", and I p1ssed myself. I had to put it in the garage coz they wouldn't go away!

Ahhhh -> "normal boost" You're first post implied this, but coz I'm so used to hearing about misfire @ > stock boost, I guess I missed it....

Sorry, I guess you mis understood. The problem with boosted R33's is that they run mega rich, and the ignition maps go all over the place, so you will definately get a misfire, or loss in power at the 5000rpm range with standard management. A SAFC corrects this problem. Once the A/F are laned out, the ignition maps start to look better, and you won't see this problem. It looks like with cracked coils the problem is more evident. I dunno if my coils are cracked, but ever since the SAFC was installed, it has run like a dream. I'll have a look at my coils anyhow, coz the misfire I used to get was quite shocking.... Anyhow, good work on that discovery, but what I'm trying to say is that the problem goes much deeper than that... Some form of aftermarket management is definately needed on any modded R33! Zahos

It would minimise preassure drop, but it may also introce lag, as it may take a tad longer to preasurise the 2 coolers now, so that the preassure after the coolers, is equal to the preassure before the coolers. Also 2 in parallel (especially in the stock location) will not cool very efficiently, as air passes through them for a very short time. I'd say that the best type of cooler, is long, flows well, andtakes the least amount of time as possible to preassurise, so that you dont see any noticable lag. When put like that, it seems that 2 factory coolers in parallel is one of the worst options...... (unlees you get them free, and all you want to do for the time being is reduce preassure drop accross one sh1tty factory cooler). I almost went down this path myself, but then managed to snap a good decent sized cooler cheap.... So maybe just hang in there a while.... BTW, I dont think the pinging under boost has too much to do with your cooler, it is it related to the amount of boost youre running, and the affect that has on your A/F ratios, and ignition timing..... A SAFC will sort that out nicely, and give you much more power at a lower boost... As an example, I got heaps of pinging at 12psi *WITH* a FMIC.... -> 167rwkw Installed SAFC, tuned, and lowered boost to 9psi, no pinging .......-> 200rwkw

EXACTLY!

Can someone please PM me too, I still haven't got one.....

- Yarraville West Primary - Avondale High School - Footscray city secondary college (NEVER send your kids there) - Essendon Keilor college - Melb uni

Can you confirm Greg that it is in fact a mineral based oil? Does it say so the bottle?