Zahos

Nope, this is taking the conversion into account... The factory guage reads in mmHg (millimeters of mercury) nor bar anyhow....

Do you mean Golgo 13? I saw one of the Golgo's on warrigal rd the other day (tuesday???), I was in the pearl red R33....

Probably b/c your A/F mixtures get screwed at higher boost. A related exaple (not entirely the same though): I was running 11psi before I tuned my SAFC, and obtained a max of 164rwkw. After tuning te SAFC to obtain near perfect A/F ratios, I got 200rwkw on 9psi. Basically what I am trying to say is that the ECU will more than likely richen your A/F ratios as boost increases, so, there is a trade off between boost / A/F ratios. If the car feels better at 10psi, then just leave it there for that reason. If you want to increase boost, then think about a SAFC, or aftermarket management. Zahos

thats about what I had on those mods (guestimating), except I had a K&N panel filter. Then I fitted a front mount and got it on the dyno to get 164rwkw with 11psi boost. The SAFC was then tuned, which made the biggest difference whilst complementing the other modifications. My mixures are up to 20% leaner!!! Anyhow, after a good dyno tune by the guys at ICE, we managed to get 200rwkw on 9psi of boost. So what I am trying to say is that you wont really get the most out of your modifications unless you sort your mixures out, as each modification screws it up on standard management. Hope this helps

With FMIC, full 3" exhaust with hi flow cat, K&N panel filter, and 11.5 psi my car made about 170 - 175rwkw (guessing, as it was backed off at 5500 rpm coz of bad A-F ratios, where it made 160rwkw) With the SAFC tuned and my A-F ratios sitting at 12:1 I made 200 rwkw at 9psi. It was a very big gain, and the car is so much more pleasant to drive. Not only from the increase in power, but it is much smoother now... The misfire at 5000 rpm (which most R33's with higher than standard boost see) is completely gone! I definatley recommend at least a SAFC if not a powerFC for a modified R33. Zahos

pm me too please

It happens b/c the mixture gets way too rich, when you are running higher than stock boost. Changing the plugs can help reduce the problem, but it wont fully go away until you sort your mixtures out! I recently got my SAFC dyno tuned, and at around that point, I had my mixtures adjusted by -21%!!!!!! So as you can see, it was running MEGA rich there!!!! Now there is absolutely NO hesitation/misfire/spluttering at that point, just smooh driving all the way up to redline! Th only plugs that helped me before my SAFC tune were NGK coppers: BCPR5E gapped at 0.7 ~ 0.8 mm, but like I said, it wont cure the prolem. If you go any colder than a heat range of 5 (>5) then you will see no improvement. Just passing on what I have learnt from personal experience! Zahos

Does it sound like someone has put a ducks nuts in a vice? A really annoying squeeky sound, only when cold? If so it is the same problem I have... I'm 99% sure it is the bearigs in the starter motor. If you pull the starter out, clean it and re-grease it, it should be OK. Zahos

It's a resonator... I took mine off once, and it didnt take long before I put it back on! The drone you get inside the cabin is cool for about 2 mins, then it gets annoying! Especially if you are hungry, or dying for a crap whilst driving... then you will see what I mean. IMHO I would leave it on, or if you are really that worried about performance, get a straight through one, as it would cause less of a restriction.... but then again, I would say the difference would be negligable... If my HKS Super Dragger came ith one, I dont think they are that bad (and mine is NOT a straight through resonaor) Zahos

I got my SAFC II fitted ($50) and tuned ($50) in melb, but it wasn't a dyno tune. A dyno tune will cost me about an extra $110. $250 for just fitting is rediculous, so dont go there!

hahahahahaha, psycho... I like it!

LOL Or even better, Arnie in the running man! I dare you to find an Arnie movie with better one liners...

BUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA DAMN that was funny! I like your sense of humour Sven

EXACTLY! Well done hippy! I quoted mine in feet and inches coz everyone else did... but i HATE the imperial system! So stupid, the metric system makes so much more sense! How is it better to measure in a system where measurements are based on the size of a kings foot, thumb and god knows what else... WTF is a yard based on? Where TF did they pull degrees Farenheit from? WTF is a mile based on? It really shits me! So let me redeem myself by stating that I am 192 - 193 cm tall

if you dont have a sunroof, it should be fine.... or do you specifically want one with a sunroof?

I dont think that would work with an EFI engine....

I'm 6'4" and I have a sunroof in my R33. Depending on how I style my hair, my hair may or may not touch the roof lining... can be quite irritating at times. So I just lean my seat back a little and no more rub! It is a tight squeeze though. I am seriously considering getting a lower seat for myself!

hey dave, clean out your PM's, I wanted to make an offer for the Profec a

I found that letting my foot slowly off the accalerator on gear changes can realy minimise backfire. So if you see the boys in blue, and you get worried, give it a try...

51jay, my car is slightly modded, and I'm guestimating close to 180rwkw. The 5 heat range still works best for me, because it is my daily driver, and I hardly thrash it. I would say that it not only depends on mods, but how you drive the car. The miss at 5000 rpm is barely noticable, if at all with the 5's.

what's with the remark? If you search those threads, you will see I have extensively answered all those questions several times. It's just that after answering them so many times, you get a little tired of answering the same questions! My point is valid, and these forums are archived for these purposes, so that people can access all sorts of information that has been discussed at an earlier stage! Dont blame me for the fact that you cant be bothered sifting through the info to find what you need. If everyone that has answered these threads before answers here aswell, you will get another thread discussing spark plugs that is identical to the rest..... I dont mean to offend you with my response, but if people never bothered to look up the information first, there are several topics that would have an astronomical number of identical threads. Most people get annoyed when someone has started a thread about a topic that has been covered so much, without searching and trying to formulate their own opinion first. For eample, if your question was: I have read that plug X is good, and plug Y is also good, both for different reasons. I would like to know which is better for such and such application... Then I'm sure many people would quite happily answer (myself included) If you want my opinion though, I recomend NGK BCPR5E (copper plugs) for street use, gapped at 0.7 - 0.8mm The more expensive plugs (ie: Iridiums and platinums) do not perform any better, they merely last longer which means nothing in a modified car. I'd say change them if your believe your car is not running as well as you believe it should, or if it has developed a misfire what does exp to put on mean? I assume you are asking if they are diffucult to change? No, they are not difficult, but it does take time (about an hour, maybe more for first time) If you search the forum, there is a thread someone else has written that details the procedure quite well, and lists the tools required. When you search for this one, search in ascending order as it is an older thread also look at these threads http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=14609 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=16296 Once again, I dont want to come accross as a smart arse, but always try searching first. Zahos

Then what is to say that all those who contradict each other wont post in here and yet still leave you feeling confused???

Nah, it was running like crap for a while (months) not just the last tank.... If you use metho, make sure you go for a few long hard drives, as the metho itself can evaoporate. So if you add the 1 litre to a full tank, make sure you go though that tank in less than a week. If your worried about octane levels, add octane booster before you add metho. It can only help...

A mechanic I knew once did some tests himself on injector cleaning products. His findings were that adding 1 litre of methylated spirits to a full tank was more effective than any product he used (typical off the shelf products). Best result I saw myself was this guys EB falcon was running like crap, and he tried the wynns (spelling) stuff with no effect. After running 1 litre of metho in the car, and thrashing the crap out of it, it was much smoother, and fuel ecomony was slightly better, which indicated that the metho did the trick. Still better to get them taken out and cleaned properly. When I had mine cleaned in my last car (N/A R31) the only difference I niticed was improved economy...

Everytime I've flushed mine out, I've used relatively cheap semi-synthetic oil in the car for a week, then simply done another oild change. Works just fine that way too.