Zahos

I found that once the car warmed up, idle was smoother, and that the plug didnt foul as quickly. It also significantly reduced the misfire at the 5000rpm mark seen by R33's with VVT (not that it applies to you ). So in answer to your question, yes! Temps were just the same, noticed no difference.

NGK Do a search, you'll find this is topic is covered extensively....

lightly moded = BCPR5E I am guestimating I am sitting at around the 170 - 180rwkw mark, and my car runs best with these for street use.

Well I'm using a VR4 cooler which is 450 x 210 x 70, and it is good for up to 400HP = about 298 kw. But then again, these VR4 coolers have proven to flow extremely well. I dont have figures (couldn't find any), but everything I read about these coolers was positive. I'm guessing the cooler you want should be sufficient, but it all depends on your long term goals. If you will be chasing more power in the near future, then go the bigger. If your goal is 230rwkw, then the smaller one would be better.

Then try going to 5's. I just went from a heat range of 5 to 6 and I dont like it! I'll be going back down to a heat range of 5 again, so much smoother....

VMS is by far the cheapest, but they don't have a dyno. If you want the cheapest path, go to VMS for installation, and a light street tune. They seem good, but they dont have a dyno.... Then go to ICE or BMT for more tuning. This will be the cheapest way to get it done. VMS quoted me $100 for install and tune, whearas everyone else quoted $160 just for installation. If you feel confident enough to install it yourself, then even better, save yourself $100! Then get it on the dyno...

I just rang Response too see if they can beat the quote that Torque gave me, and they said they dont insure imports anymore, as of Wednesday 28th.

Go to http://www.broadbandchoice.com.au/ and enter your preferences. It will find all the deals best suited to you...

Why don't you try putting an SR20 in it? I've heared of people putting them in mid eighties 3 series BMW's, so it has all been done before. The only BM I've seen with an RB25 was a 5 series....

aaaaahhhhhhhh It's way too early for me....

Gapped at 1mm??? Gee thats pretty small.... Is that just a typo? If not, why such a small gap?

This must be the 1,000,000,000,000,000th time I have posted in re to spark plugs but I can't help myself..... OK, when I bought my car, the guy I got it from put platinums (NGK platimun).... they took almost twice as long to foul as my coppers did. At 3 or 4 times the price, it doesn't seem worth it to me. Then I put BCPR7ES, and the car felt great agin.... but they fouled VERY quickly on my car.... only mods were boost, cooler, cat back. It only took a few 1000 k's before the misfire at 5000rpm was getting worse. Then I went for BCPR6E. Same as the 7's... felt great, but lasted a little longer before misfire got worse. However I would say the difference was negligable. Then I went down one more to BCPR5E. These lasted me ages..... The misfire at 5000 rpm got considerably smaller than before. They worked a treat for me. So why the hell did I go back up to a heat range of 6???? Well I got a full turbo back xorst, and a SAFC, so I thought I should go 1 cooler, but it didn't help me.... Overall, I have used a lot of different plugs, and my best experience was with NGK coppers: BCPR5E (oh, gapped at 0.75mm)

Nsh, the check valve is the one way valve. All it does is help remove any boost left in the hose between the pressure relief valve, and the wastegate on gear changes.

Nah man, VN's a crap... Get a VQ statesman... My mate's got one and it handles HEAPS better than an R34 GTR. I seen his statesman outlap the R34 at calder, no sh1t!!! BTW Squizz, it doesn't look too good mate when you have the word spank in your sig, and your crying out: "make him stop mummy, make him stop!" hehehehehehehehe

But without a huge loud aftermarket BOV, you'll get sh1t loads of wastegate creep! EBC's are sh1t to! They are but a mere patch for lacking a decent external wastegate. And if your turbo doesn't have an external wastegate, then your turbo is sh1t too!

No worries Dennis, all the slagging going on in this thread is not merely enough to get on my sensitive side, but I do agree with you on your point about people making statements without backing them up. Yes I did say bleed valves are crap, based on personal experience, and relatively speaking of course with my current setup. Although my current setup does consist of a bleed valve (pressure regulating valve), it is in my opinion a bleed valve on its own is crap. I don’t think I am wrong in making that assertion, as I am sure many who have gone onto better setups would agree with me. And I'm sure that people who have a decent EBC would think that my setup is crap, and if they did say that, it wouldn't bother me, because relatively speaking, they're right! As for my other post (in re to wastegate creep), I had a spelling mistake, so it should read: "It is a plain and simple fact that bleed valves don’t bring it on MUCH (not my) quicker", which is true (again my basis for this assertion is relative), but I can see how that comment got misinterpreted (my bad). I hope people take my opinions seriously (as I do for those who have good reasoning and logic), as it serves as a good basis for forming your own opinions and conclusions. If we didn’t listen to other voices, and stuck with only what we know, how can you move forward??? Anyway enough of me trying to be philosophical, what will our next argument be on people???

Hey GTST, I haven't used that valve before, so I don’t know how well it works. It will however bring boost on a little quicker that stock form, but the setup in the article I listed will be better as it will reduce wastegate creep. From memory, I think I paid something like $40 per valve from Norgren, and $10??? for the check valve from Enzed. Plus there was the hoses, and fittings which was about another $30 - $40 extra, so I estimate around $130 all up for that setup. (I did mine about a year ago, so prices may vary now???) The reason people tend to argue on forums (regardless of the fact we are all skyline enthusiasts), is the same reason people will always argue..... Conflict of opinion! If you think about it, it's actually a good thing, as people will provide many arguments for many varying opinions, and it can open your eyes to something you may not have heard or thought of before. But then again you will always get some people who are just to nit-picky, don’t base their opinions on any solid arguments, are just to damn stubborn, but you have to expect that too, but you just need to learn how to ignore it. It doesn't bother me, because my opinions are based on my own judgement of the many different arguments I have heard/read and my own logic. Anyhow, the best thing you can do, is put the valve you have in, and see how you like it. If you want to upgrade later on, the all you need to buy is the preasure relief valve, and the check valve. You can use your bleed valve in place of the preasure regulator valve listed in the article. Zahos

No, you are correct in what you say, in fact, I mentioned earlier that with a plain bleed valve setup, it does actually reduce wastegate creep as opposed to the factory setup. If you read the post directly under the one you quoted from (post 14), you can clearly see that is exactly what I wrote much earlier on in this discussion. I also said that no air should get to the wastegate to spool the turbo *as quick as possible* like you mentioned. I never said that even the slightest pressure will open the wastegate... In fact, it was mentioned somewhere after that post what the "cracking" pressure of the stock wastegate is. I never knew what it was so I never bothered to mention.... So in fact, you did agree with everything I said, and everything you discussed has already been covered in this thread, but I don’t think you read it all, and hence misinterpreted what I said. Up to now, I have provided my arguments for all my opinions, have I not? And where did I rave on about how sh1t bleed valves are? I said that an EBC is better, but again a good result can be obtained with a pneumatic configuration (post #4). In fact, I use a pneumatic setup in my car, and that is what I recommended for a low budget setup. (again, post #4) If the last comment in your post was directed at me, I suggest you read through the entire thread carefully next time, and note what different peoples opinions are before posting. As you have a quote from one of my posts, it seems yours is directed entirely at me. If it was directed at someone else, next time try to make it a little more clear who your comments are directed to. Zahos

No worries.... Yeah, 0.7 should be quite safe. You could probably run a little higher for street use (squirst here and there), but 0.7 should be just fine. Zahos

Yes they do. I have one in mine. It is the same filter as the aus delivered R31, and the VL 3L.

No, your redline should be at 7000 or 73000 rpm? someone else can clarify this... 0.4 bar.... hmmmm, seems a bit low. Did you not put the bleed valve back in?

What I was trying to get at is: - You can have a good pneumatic setup, but - A good dual solenoid EBC is better, and more reliable. Red17: If yours is of the older type, then it is probably a single solenoid, and most likely only adjusts the max boost seen in the plenum. From my understanding, the dual solenoid EBC's use one solenoid to control wastegate creep (ie: dont let any air to the wastegate until you set it to), and the other will control boost levels.

Oh, and I forgot.... The reason why boost does come on quicker with your bleed valve, rather than with the factory solenoid, is because the factory solenoid lets all the air get to your wastegate before reaching it's operating point (4500rpm???), whearas: A bleed valve will slowly bleed of some of that air from the word go. Some setups with bleed valves spike, some don't, I don't know why....

It is a plain and simple fact that bleed valves dont bring it on much quiker. Here is why: For boost to come on as quick as possible, you would need to prevent *ANY* air from reaching the wastegate, so that it stays shut, and every bit of air passing out of your exhaust manifold is used to spool the turbo up quicker. An EBC can be programmed to do this until you have reached your desired level of boost, then it lets air to the wastegate, and then acts like a bleede valve, bleeding of air so that you can maintain that level of boost. A bleed valve will let some air get to the wastegate while it is bleeding air off. This small amount of air hitting the wastegate will slowly open it up, giving an effect called wastegate creep. The only way you will spool up quicker with a bleed valve, is if you put a preasure relief valve before your bleed valve. The presure relief valve will stay shut, until enough air preasure is built up to open it, letting air pass through it, thus working in the same priciple as an EBC, but not as efficiently. Read the articles I listed above, they may explain it a little better than I have. Zahos

yeah, your lag wont be huge, but a cooler that size needs more flow to reach it's full potential.