Zahos

Hmmmmm Well then I am guessing a leak... Or maybe even a blocked hose??? I cant really tell without looking at it, to see how it has been setup... Do you know anyone that could have a quick look at it for you?

It couldn't have been. It might have been wound all the way up... Did you try turning it the other way to see what happens? If it the same, then you have a leak in the line that goes to your wastegate.

I thought that most of the money from our rego goes to the TAC, and is not for 3rd party property damage. So anyone that is injured n the roads is covered from the cash we all pay come registration time...

EXACTLY!!!!!!! I'm sick of all this crap we are fed by these rec0ckulous add campaignes, and government "initiatives" to reduce the road toll...... BULLSH1T!!!! IMHO, I think that if they really wanted the road toll figures reduced, a new program would be introduced for obtaining a drivers license. This could EASILY be subsidised by the government with ALL THAT MONEY they make off speeding fines these days. The course would be more detailed, and expanded over a period of a few days, just like a motorbike drivers license test. Simply testing a drivers ability to turn, indicate and reverse park is not a valid enough reason to give somebody a drivers license!!!! They tried to avoid having to intruduce such a scheme with the campaigne they had going for learners to get more experience with their parents (which is good), but come crunch time, the current system cannot REALLY determine if the person is safe enough to be driving on the roads!!!!! What about those overcautious people that cause accidents b/c they will just stop in the middle of the road when a situation arrises in their path, they cant deal with? What about those morons, that cant judge their cars width, and loose the plot in a narrow side street b/c they think their cars cant fit with another coming in the oncoming direction? I can think of hundreds of situations where a lot of drivers could possibly cause an accident b/c they have no friggin clue about driving, or b/c they are too overcautious!!!!! Do they teach you to brake heavily in the wet? Brake whilst turning? What to do if your sh1tty VN comonwhore with $10 175 bob-jane cheapo tires starts to slide after it has rained for the first time in 4 weeks?????? I THINK NOT!!!!!! This makes me so friggin angry, b/c we all know that road rules are changing in order to raise revenue, rather than to ensure road safety!!!! Government workers who write these REC0CKULOUS rules and regulations claiming they are put in place to ensure road safety should be burnt at the steak! This whole thing stinks to me! This is just as bad as the legal system in the US where people can sue each other for the most REC0CKULOUS reasons! It is corrupt, unjust, and unless we dont make a stand, they will surely think of many other ways to steal our money, whilts road safety factor remains unchanged! pricks!

Demon Dave is right. I had this same problem, sounded like the window was going to break every time. I pulled the door trim off, and adjusted the rails, and tightened the bolts, as some were loose. No it makes no sound... Just pull your door trim off, and watch your window go up and down, you'll figure it out...

there is no need to remove the valve... just leave it where it is. The valve will have arrows on the knob, indicating how to lower and raise boost. Lower it all the way... Once you have done that, take the car for a spin, and note what full boost is. If it is below 0.7, turn the knob on your blled valve to raise the boost a little, then go for another drive. Keep repeating this until you hit 0.7bar or *just* over. 0.7bar is approx 10psi, and 0.8 is approx 11.5 psi. at 0.75 it will be arounf 10.7 which is about as far as you should go. To be safer, stick to about 0.7bar. Zahos

That is WAAAAAAY too high if ur turbo internals are still stock. Wind it all the way down so your boost is something line 0.5bar. Then take it out, and turn it just a little, and you will see your boost go past 0.5bar.... then keep going until you get it to about 0.7 ~ 0.75 bar. Any more than this on a standard turbo can cause major damage in a very short period of time....

Yeah, I had the same problem when I set my boost too high... How did you set your bleed valve? 1. dyno? 2. on street with after market boost guage? 3. on street with stock boost guage? 4. guess? When I set mine using #3, I hit the same problem. Then I got a boost guage and set it using #2, no problems.... So wind your boost down a little... What is is currently set at?

How did u go with Torque? Also give Unique a try... Look em up on whitepages.com, and give em a call....

I dont know if it is true, and I went elsewhere for insurance b/c of a better quote on my premium. The best thing you could do is to call them up and ask them. Dont always believe what someone says b/c they heard it elsewhere...

Also try VMS They are in Footscray, on Ashley st. Their number is: 9687 2779

In re to making claims..... I always thought it was more secure to be with the bigger insurance companies when it came time to make a claim, but here's a short story that will change your mind... My sister (who was 7 months pregmant at the time with her second kid) was driving with her husband and 5 year old child, was in a head on collision with some guy who just came over to the wrong side of the road. Luckily she was OK. Two cops had seen the whole thing, and rushed over to check if all were OK, and to get all the details down. The guy had given False details which checked out OK, then p1ssed off! When my sister made the claim, they said she would have to pay the excess b/c they couldn't find the guy.... (This is with RACV) She told them 2 cops SAW the whole thing, and it is detailed in their report, so there is proof she is NOT at fault... but they didnt care and refused to fix her car unless she paid the excess and lost her rating...... Luckily though the dumbarse that hit her, used her mobile to call home, and she noticed it on her bill. She gave the number to the cops, they found him, and he had to fork it out in the end.... So dont think u r any safer with a big insurance company...

Did u read my post? When I rang they said: "Um.... I think $1800 should do it?!?!" I told them Just Cars quoted me $1600, so they said uuummmmmm, I guess $1500 to $1550 is OK......" Then I told them about the SAU 10% discount, and they said "I think $1480 is probably he best we can do.... how does that sound?!?!?!?" At this point, I thought to myself..... you could have quoted that from the beggining... even still I wasn't sure if they were pulling that # out of their arse....... I was not happy being spoken to like that.... it's not a few cents or a few dollars we are talking about here, that was a $380 difference that they weren't sure about.... how can you trust someone when they dont trust themselves????? To sum it up, if they gave me a firm price, and said that is the best we can do, I would have no problem with that. But the fact that they gave me a different price every 15 seconds, gave me the impression that thaey were not very professional. Others may have had good experiences with them, but I am just making others aware of mine.

pm sent to mrskyline777

Try Sam, AKA Dr Drift. He lives in Essendon I think. Send him a PM

hahaha Ur right man.... Then Cam, do you still have pics of the SAFC install you could post up (or maybe even the person that bought Cams car?)?

same here... Cam, is it suppossed to do that, or has the account been clossed/suspended or something?

Give torque a try, and post back here when they reply... I'm curious to see how they compare. Suncorp dont want to insure in VIC so they give astronomical quotes... They wanted $15,000 for my gts25t....

Also try ICE in Cheltenham

I am after a 2nd hand Apexi Power FC, (ECU only). I'm situated in melbourne... reply here, or PM me if you can help Thanks George

I dunno if they have websites.... I think Torque doesn't... Just give em a call, and see what they say.... If you are looking for info on them, search in google... This is all I cam up with: http://www.land-rover.team.net/pipe...ber/000186.html http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co....pic/9734-1.html but then again, I only spent 2 mins searching....

for a larger turbo, a heat range of 7 is good, but for the satandard turbo, 5 is good, or 6 if u are around the 180kw mark. Anything less on an R33 with standard turbo, and you will definately see problems at the 5000rpm mark. I had 7's in mine with 12psi boost, and for the 1st 2 weeks it was fine. After that they soon fouled easily, so I went down to 6. Because I drive it to work, and dont often thrash it, they fouled after a while too. I've had 5's in there for 3 months now, and I have had no issues... In DREMEN's case I wouldn't go past a heat range of 6...

sh1t, did i sat tax, I mean excess..... oops

OK, here's my situation 26, no accidents, no claims, rating 1 for 3 years, 4 speeding fines 3 years ago.... live in Melbourne Mods: cooler, full xorst, boost controller Paid $1500 last year with just cars, this year they bumped it up to $1700.... FAAARK THAT! Excess: $450 standard excess +$600 import excess +$700 if stolen So $1050 if i make a claim, and $1750 if it gets stolen! EAD!!!!! Called Famous, and they quoted me $1800. I told them that JC quoted me $1600 (hehe), and they said "around" $1500 ?!?!?!?! WTF is around? Then I said I was part of SAU, and they finally decided on $1480. I'm sorry, but you dont pull numbers out of your magic jocks, and change it accordingly! Imagine how many people would get ripped if everyone used that system (not just insurance). I was not happy with their lack of professionalism! Excess: $1000 for a claim $2000 if stolen...... EAD!!!! After reading russcb007's post, I called Torque. Straight down the line, quoted me $1141. I was happy with the way they spoke to me too. Didnt try to feed me no BS, just straight down the line! No stupid clauses either..... PLUS they replace your windscreen without making a claim... and it is not just once a year, it is unlimited!!! Excess: $450 standard... THATS IT!!!!! Also called unique, they quoted me $1466, which would have been my choice if not for Torque. Doesnt take a genius to figure out who I will take out a policy with!!! Zahos

Iridiums and platinums do not offer any better spark over copper. In fact, the copper plugs are better conductors and offer a better spark. Only think is they dont last as long, which is a good thing on a tuned high performance car, as you would want new plugs at least every 20,000Km. The Iridiums and platinums till have a copper core anyhow, but have a thin layer coating the core. They shouldn't be re-gapped b/c their tips can be easily scratched, thus turning them into $20 copper plugs as oppossed to $3 copper plugs. Try some NGK copper plugs, they will work just as well, if not better for a fraction of the price. The plug you need depends on your driving habbits.... If you drive like a grandma most of the time, NGK BCPR5E or (BCRP5E-11) If you take it on the track, or thrash it quite often, go for the same in a 6 heat range, so BCPR6E (-11) Whatever you end up getting, regap them to 0.7. Then make sure you tuner advances your timing to past the 20degree mark (as long as their is no knocking, if there is then he should retard the timing to a safe level). This should help make that power curve look a little more linear. You will never fully get rid of the problem unless you get aftermarket management, as it is an issue with your ignition timing curve on the stock ECU. Boost + stock ECU + VCT = miss at 5000 rpm! Zahos