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Everything posted by Zahos
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I dont think this is correct. I have had mine off for about 9 months now, maybe more. I had left it connected electronically in fear of this, but decided to try it out, and it made absolutely no difference. As Jay95R33 said, there is no feedback, so the ECU wont even know it is unplugged.... Zahos
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Looks good Ritchie I dont suppose you know if the paint is different or special in any way? I know that my paint is "pearl red" b/c I got some mixed when I sprayed my grille. That is the 2nd one I have seem that has the same paint as mine. Most of the other red R33's I've seen dont shine like that. The color is a little more dull, and they didnt have the pearl in them.....
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Fuel economy shouldn't much different on the 2 (in theory). The WRX should be MORE to insure b/c they are a higher risk. One important factor insurance companies take into account when deciding on a premium for a car is: How many claims have been made against this car!!!!! The WRX is therefore considered a higher risk than a GTR, so it is should cost more to insure! RB motors, gearboxes, diffs etc are a good quality build, and designed for punishment. WRX's (although I still think they are good cars) are not of the same quality, and more prone to failure. GTR's look much much better too. there's my argument!
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Help Needed: R33 GTS-T/GTR Spark plug leads or coils?
Zahos replied to DREMEN's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
coil packs... no leads!Can he make anything other than leads? -
check here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=12181 very reasonably priced.
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or show them footage of what happened to the last prick that looked at you funny....
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They go for that much? DAMN!!!! I found one at a trash and treasure market 2 years ago (working) and the dude wanted $50 for it.... I was considering it, but then I couln't be bothered loading and unloading it so I left it! Once again DAMN!
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I was thinking of putting it on rails under the stereo. that way I could fold it, and slide it in when not in use... kinda like the way an in dash TV screen folds in. I just have to try and find the right rails... Any ideas any1?
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what would be considered too much? How is a figure generated for this? Do variables like modifications affect the threshold for advancing the timing? I am curious b/c I was considering advancing my timing to about 25 degrees TDC. I have basic mods like cooler, turbo back exhaust, and boost (~11 psi). George
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i meant wax, polish or wax..... Thats how I've always done it, and my spray jobs have always come out perfect... good luck
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if rubbing back for the final time, try 2000 or 3000 grit. 1200 is a bit rough for a final finish. make sure you keep it really wet too.... and always polish or way after rubbing back...
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Since it is not going to be sprayed in an oven, make sure you apply about 4 coats of clear (maybe 5). Once done, you will still have a little bit of orange peel effect. Before polishing, get some cutting compound (this is a little rough, and may have some chunky bits inside). Dilute a small amount of this into water (mix well), then apply onto the sprayed area (not on the same day you spray as it will still be too soft). Once it has dried to a haze, buff it back. (It would be much better if you didn't do this by hand). Once you have buffed it back, it will look really dull, but dont worry, it's supossed to. Next use a polish (not cut and polish, just polish). Repeat the same (maybe twice if needed), then wax it too. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it is b/c you are not painting in an oven, where the temp is just right, and there are fans to suck all the overspray... George
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are you applying it right? see the attached pic point the gun / can slightly (about 30 degrees) into the direction you are spraying, and move across at a pace where you are applying just enough paint before it begins to run. This will ensure you dont get any overspray.... also make sure the area you are spraying in is well ventilated, so that any overspray floating around doesn't float onto the surface. also other things to consider, is the surface clean of dirt, grease(most important), and dust? if using a can make sure you shake VERY well, and the nozzle is clean. if using a gun, make sure it is also clean, and that you have adjust paint / air mixtures well, and that the stream is not comming out too strong.... there are many factors invloved in spray painting....... cant realy diagnose the situation with seeing all equipment, etc... Hope this helps Zahos
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R33 Gts-t clutches: Which are good
Zahos replied to «Cyph3r»'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
make sure you specifically tell them to give you your old clutch.... ALWAYS ask for the old part from your mechanic... -
go to makspeed in little china town... they were the cheapest when i was looking for one. I paid $80 for a single, universal guage holder to suit jap gauges (60mm I think) check this thread out for details
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For the fuel filters, it is either z200 or z201. I'm 99% sure it is z201. Just go into repco, autobarn, whatever and check em out both.... Look at yours first as a pint of comparison.... ALSO, I just remembered, there was a difference b/w the 2 that will help figure out whick one... The correct one has these types of inlets / outlets.. ................ --- ................/.... .................|..| .................|..| ...........-------------- ...........|................| ...........|................| Whereas the other had a different type. Hope this helps...
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the fill hole is on the side (drivers side), not the top.
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ok then... so whats the 2/3 then??? I thought you had the line, the cefiro and now the 180... that makes 3.... PS: how about I transfer 50c into your account, then you can throw it in for me... kaloriziko
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congrats meggs, is that a later model? I dont think I've seen one with the little grill incorporated into the bumper like that...
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Thats b/c some people assume that if you warm it up for 10 -15 mins at home in the garage, its ok to thrash it afterwards.... you also need to consider the gearbox, the diff etc. I agree 1 or 2 mins is sufficient, but then you still gotta take it easy... I got a mate who couldn't give a rats arse for his R31, in the morning he starts the car with the clutch in, and ready in first gear. As soon as it has cranked over, he floors it and lets one rip down his street to warm it up. I keep telling him off, but he seriously couldn't care less for his car... He also does this b/c his choke is wrecked, so this prevents his car from stalling at the first set of lights...
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dont forget to take into account -torque -gear ratios -driver skill It's not just power that makes all the difference. I dont know the specs on supra's but I know toyota makes some good powerful motors. Common sense though tells me an R33 gtst will rip an NA supra (if both drivers of equal skill).
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In the morning I'll start my car, put the turbo timer on 5 mins, then lock and arm the car (car alarm detects TT). I never usually let it warm up for less than 5 mins, but about 2 mins cold start is ok. If the car was driven within a few hours, about a minute does it for me. As for cooling down, i leave it for 1 min, or if I have REALLY been caning it, about 2 mins. I dont give it any stick either until temp is half way, and oil preasure is down to 2bar on idle. This was the approach I took on my R31, and after 7 years (and i used to cane the crap out of it when it was warm), I never once got anything repaired (except fan clutch), and compression was almost the same as it was when i bought it. Hardly ANY noticable power loss. What i do may be overkill, but if you really take care of your car, chances are it will be a lot lighter on your wallet! my 2c
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R33 Gts-t clutches: Which are good
Zahos replied to «Cyph3r»'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I dont have one personally, but I know it will be my next clutch. There was another thread on these clutches, and the feedback from those that have them was all positive. -
check this thread out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=9287 As for EBC, most are good, but all are very expensive. I myself will be designing one soon to work with the factory solenoid, and the factory MAP sensor that is tied to the boost guage. It's not hard at all, and if I get enough interest, I make a whole bunch of them for any1 that wants one on this forum. I'll start a new thread when I get this project underway.
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nark, it is much more satisfying to watch em suffer. At least thet will learn their lesson, and have remorse for their mistakes before they die. BoOsTeD_RB26: The best thing for you to do now is: - change the barrels in your locks, all of them as he may have taken a house key as well. - as mentioned, change the frequency of you remote garage doors - inform your neighbours. (Also tell neighbours that he has been looking at a few cars in the neighbourhood so that they themselves feel threatened, so that they dont ignore it) - inform the police, and get a written report (for insurance purposes, so if your car does get knocked off, it will speed things up with your insurance pay out) setting up a camera can be quite a job, and quite costly. It really pisses me off that we live in a society where we have to watch our backs!!! It only happens in big cities where we dont all know each other! If victims however started to take action against these people, and against those satanic lawyers that defend these people, this wouldn't happen as often. If you dont take care of yourself, who will??? Thats why you teach these f*ckers a good lesson when you catch them, otherwise you will always be hastled!