Zahos

I have the same problem and it is not a loose belt. If it were a loose belt, it would happen more often, not just on cold startups. It would be very evident when revving the car on a cold night, when the engine is cold too, and this doesn't happen.

phillips head screwdriver flat head screwdriver (to remove clips) 10 or 12mm socket (cant remember) to adjust rails Thats it!

You have to take your door trim off, and you will see where the bolts are to adjust it! Basically there a re a few bolts down the bottom that hold the window in. Check if they are loose, and if they are, then tighten them. Next At the top of the door, and in the middle, there are some bolts holding a couple of rails that guide the window as it goes up and down. Adjust them so that the window leans more into the interior than it does now (you will know what I mean when you see it). Dont do it too much though, just a bit, and test it out. If it needs more, do it again, but do it in small increments, b/c if you do it too much the first time, you can break the window when you close it... I had the same problem with my car(used to rattle like crazy when i sut the door with a half open window), but I solved my problem this way. Zahos

If you want to see a work of art in ASCII, have a look at http://www.asciimation.co.nz/ Someone has devoted a Sh1t load of time to re-creating Star Wars 4: A New Hope in ASCII. It's pretty good too!

Hey, I've got the same guage..... Cost me $30 from the wreckers!

and number 2...

Here ya go.... I think b/c they were over 100Kb they wouldn't fit! I have cropped them so that they do, hope you dont mind.

GOOD, b/c it seems to me that some knob pulled the name "wine red" out of his arse, and the fact that it is made up, and so commonly used is pi**ing me off! I cant stand the name "wine red" b/c of this reason, but if it is a real color in the skylines, then it wouldn't bother me....

White....... Can look good on many cars but lacks in shine... well, you cant see the shine b/c the color itself reflects so much light..... Same as silver. I used to have a silver R31... loved the color, as scratches, and dirt hardly even show up, it is the best color if u cant be stuffed washing ur car, but again, doesn't shine as well as darker colors! But from what I have gathered the "wine" red, doesn't even exist... I think someone gave that name to the color somewhere along the line, and the name has stuck! If any1 has tried to get their "red" skyline paint mixed somewhere, and it came up as "wine" red, please correct me! I thought mine was "wine" red, but when I got the paint code to get it mixed, it came up as perl red.

Yeah, I think mine has the silver perl in it. I copped a big shock when I went to get some paint mixed...... bloody expensive!

If I had of known it was a perl, I wouldn't have bought it! I've always done my own re-spraying myself, but now I'll have to take it to a panel shop if anything happens, as spraying with perl yourself, f**king it up, and spraying again will cost just as much or more! Oh well! Zahos

And here is a pic of the color difference. The engine bay is only painted with the first layer, no perl, no clear. I've pointed the grille out to be final color, but in this case it is a metallic red / maroon I had mixed up for me, b/c it is an aftermarket one I sprayed myself.

The R33 "red", is actually not a red. Well I know for sure mine isn't, and there's an easy way to check... Mine is a 3 layer perl spray job (factory), and it consists of the following.... It is firstly sprayed a brownish color, then a layer of perl is sprayed over that, topped off with a tinted clear (most likely a tint of red in it), Which makes it look like a metallic red, but if you look at it in sunlight, the closer yoou get, the more the paint changes.. you can notice the perl. Anyhow, here's a pic of my ride, the pic doesn't do justice to the spray job and the color...

Or even better, stop using IE, and use a real browser that conforms to standards... like mozilla.

Hey Dave, the clutch meggala has suggested is a lot better, and doesnt cost that much more. I got a standard clutch put in mine, and now I regret it! I think in total, if I went to Ice and got the dakien exidy organic heavy duty clutch. it would have cost me $50 - $100 more..... I didn't do mine myself though....

but they should have already come gapped at 0.8. In the NGK coppers, usually you will find that unless the part # has a -11 trailing (eg: BCPR6ES-11), they are gapped at 0.8. If the part # has the -11 then they are gapped at 1.1mm.

5's are a warmer plug. I'd assume putting the 5's in means that the plug is not capable of dissapating heat fast enough and the HOT plug will pre-ignite the fuel, causing the car to ping under high load and high boost. 6 is the recomended heat rating for the RB20/25 (dont know about RB26). Unless you have heavily modded the car, and/or have aftermarket/re-mapped management, I wouldn't go cooler than 6, as the plugs will foul easily (found this out from experience).

What ratio of oil/teflon r u going to use? I was thinking of putting some in myself, but I dont know how I should portion it! Thanks Zahos

The iridium and platinum plugs are good, and have a long service life compared to the coppers, but if your planning on boosting, or already have an RB25T, then just go the copper! Reason: You'd be wasting your money going for the others, as the 25T tends to run very rich without aftermarket management, meaning your new expensive plugs will get fouled just as quickly, and need to be pulled out to be cleaned.... and there is only a certain amount of times you can do this. So.... If you are going to pull them out anyway, in the long run it will cost about the same to keep putting new coppers in every time you pulled them out! I know I'd rather be putting new plugs in every time! Also the amount of spark generated by any of these plugs is just the same! If you want a good copper plug, try: NGK BCPR6E (or if u dont find them, try BCPR6ES) The plug without the S is the v-groove, which gives off a slightly better spark. Almost forgot, regap them to about 0.7, maybe even as low as 0.65 if your planning on really cranking up the boost. Zahos

FYI I just called a whiteline distrubutor here in vic, and I got some prices for polyeurathane bushed for an R33 Front control arm uppers: $145 Strut to chassis (front): $107 ($63 for standard) Rear control arm upper: $??? (no price) Rear sway bar mount to chassis: $14.44 these guys are in 28 Ovata drive, Tullumarine ph: 9330 1166 I'm getting a squeek from the front in the mornings when the car is cold. I dont suppose any1 has had the same, and changed their bushes. Its just that I haven't looked at them yet, but i was sondering which of the 2 it is likely to be... Zahos

Does any1 know where I can obtain some polyurethane bushes for an R33, (or R32 in inark's case)? (Prefer in Melb) And if possible, an estimate in $$$

That how I did it.... xtra long pole! I tried pusing it, but I pushe myself back I tried kicking, but I just pushed myself again... In the end it took 2 of us to get it off, b/c it was on so bloody tight! So just keep going at it!

Try doing a search as this issue has been discussed many times, especially on SDU. The only oil recomended by the manufacturer is castrol VMX 80. It's cheap too, about $25 for 4 litres. I used it my gbox and it solved some crunching problems with 2nd gear, I recomend it..

I've had 225's on my std R33 rims for over a year now. They sit just fine, and dont bulge out much at all. Anywhere between 205 and 225's is ok on these rims.

Try 0.7 or even 0.65+ A good spark plug (copper) is NGK BCPR6E Platimuns r good, but not worth the money, as the only benefit they have is a longer life span. I dont plan to leave plugs in there that long anyhow, as they foul easy when running rich....