Zahos

Should search around on SDU first as this question has been answered many times before in the past. Basically as matlowth said, they do get fouled easily b/c of the fuel mixture, so coppers are the way to go... The more expensive plugs dont give more power, but do last longer and use better conductors, so a copper plug needs a smaller gap so the spark can jump. Higher boost also means you need a smaller gap, as does a colder heat rating spark. If you dont have a heavily modded car, then the plug you want is NGK BCPR6ES. They are gapped to .8 mm and will do the job well. Dont bother getting a colder plug BCPR7ES as I did. Because my car is stock (besides exhaust and boost), the colder heat rating dont work as well... Zahos

Does anybody have one?????

I have in my possesion one of those BES Turbo Timers made right here in the land of Oz. Does anyone have one and the instruction manual for it? If so, I know this might be a bit of a pain, but could you scan it for me, or even just tell me which colored wire is supposed to conect to what??? Also, I know this one is a long shot, but I think that one or 2 of the IC's on it may be burnt. The IC part #'s have been scratched off on mine, so the second thing I was wondering, is if someone could check inside theirs and write the IC numbers down for me? I know I have high hopes here, but hey... it's worth a try. There might be someone willing to help me... Zahos

You would be better of changing and tuning the engine management last, unless you can afford to re-tune it after every other modification.

just remember to clean the brush well with thinners or turps after testing it, otherwise it will harden and make it difficult to do a good job on the door! Also use a generous amount of paint on the brush, but only let it **VERY LIGHTLY** brush up against the panel... If you get this technique right, you wont get the brush look, and it will come out looking much smoother and less noticeable. Clean the area of application VERY WELL, and air dry it with a compressor or a hair dryer before application. After the paint has dried for about 24 hours, give it a good buff, so it may blend in a little more. (This rarely makes a difference, but possibly can). Cant think of any more hints.... Zahos

I know exactly where you are coming from, I spent 3 months trying to find one with a near perfect spray job (only to realise later that the car was in-fact re-sprayed!!! - No matter, its a good job). Anyhow, same thing, one mechanic put a long scratch into my right guard, but luckily it was only a scratch in the clear coat and not the paint, So I just gave it a good cut using a cutting compound, and then waxed it. Came up good, I can only notice it now if I look closely. Take a close look at yours, it might not go through the paint, so this might be an option. If it does go through, a paint shop should be able to match your paint, and put it in a can for you to spray over, but I recomend you don't take this road unless you have sprayed a few cars before and know exacly what you are doing. I've sprayed a few cars in my time, and still cant get these touch up jobs 100% as it is near impossible! I've done a few where it appeared to look OK, but in certain angles of sunlight, the respray was visible... If it is as small as you say, then a touch up texta, or a very fine brush will be your best bet, as you will cover the smallest amout of surface area with new paint, hence the chance of it being noticed is minimised. Where abouts are you located? If you are in melbourne, I can recoment a paint shop that does a good job when it comes to matching the color of your car... Zahos

Yeah b005t, R33! I got the universal for 2 reasons: - didnt want to pay a ridiculous price for a piece of fibleglass! - only wanted 1 guage. This way you also save from buying another guage that you dont really want anyway... At first, i was a bit cheesed that i had to cut it down, but in the end, i was glad that i took that approach b/c now it looks better than i hoped it would, and it is much smaller than oroginal size making look even neater! This way I made my own custom brackets to hold it on, and I didnt have to touch the pillar at all! I try grab a digital camera here from work and take a pic for ya. Zahos

Looks mostly.... When i was in uni, i did 1 year of mechanical engineering, and we tested various spoilers in a wind tunnel. A small one like on the standard gtst would only make any difference at over 100-130kph. A bigger wing may come onto effect earlier, but would not bring you any benifit unless you were driving at high speeds, well over 150kph. So for a street car, the difference is negligible

Look at this thread. Makspeed is listed in there, they are in little bourke street. There is also an outlet in Maribyrnong, but that is mostly a workshop, and they dont really have any thing like that for sale there.... The one in Bourke st is b/w exhibition st and russel st

I got a trust 60mm single universal guage pod from makspeed in melbourne (check the perfomance shops / wreckers in vic thread in the victoria forum). cost me $88, and i cut the prick down so that the shape matched my pillar. then i stuck 2 matal brackets with fibre glass on (one that slots b/w the pillar and the dash, and the other wraps around the pillar on the windscreen side). On the other side that goes towards the door, I stuck a piece of leather (b/c it streches only a little) and put a small bracket on that so it clips on that side. This way I made no holes or damage to my pillar. It fits VERY nicely and looks very professional. If I had a digital camera or access to one I would take pics and show off, but unfortunately, I dont If you cant be stuffed doing all that (for me its a hobby), they sell dual pillar pods for R33's that fit straight on for about $130. Zahos

what boost r u running? I know u said stock, but the factory guage is that bad, using that will give you no propper indication. Going by that guage i thought i was running 7psi when in fact i was running over 10! Every time i cranked it up (to what i thought was 10) i was boosting to about 14. Lucky i only did this twice. So r u unsing the factory guage or an aftermarket? Overboosting can cause this exact same problem as most pnuematic boost controllers spike at about that point.

yup, i have i went to a JB hi-fi car audio installation factory and got a tray from a mazda of some sort (new $20). Then I made my own brackets to screw the prick in, took about 20 mins all up. If have the time, go to a wrecker and get one out of any car, and then modify it yourself so that it fits. Zahos

I had the exact same problem, and managed to get rid of it. Only problem is that I dont know exactly what it was that i did to get rid of it, but i have an idea. I will run through my problem first to see how closely it matches yours. - at stock boost all fine, except a mis sometimes between 4500 - 5500 rpm. (only in 2nd and third gear) - once boost is raised, problem is more evident at 4500 - 5500 rpm. happens sometimes in 1st, but almost always in 2nd and 3rd. After 5500 rpm, all is smooth until 7000 rpm. What I did - Regap spark plugs. The spark plugs i had put in, were NGK BCPR7ES. Now I read that since they are copper plugs, the gap needs to be smaller so the 0.8mm gap i thought would be fine. EEERRRRR WRONG. Well not really wrong, but 0.8mm was not small enough. See the 7 means that the plugs are also a colder rating which means that it will be even harder for the spark to jump (due to heat rating AND that fact that they are copper as opposed to the recomended platinum). Solution: regap to 0.7mm. - Next, as I was putting the spark plugs back, I noticed that there was quite a bit of dirt around some of the plug holes. This is due to the fact that the previous owner must have had sh*t for brains and hosed the crap out of the engine b/f selling to make it look much cleaner, and the fact that plugs it came with were not screwed in very well, meant that a lot of dirt and crap got stuck in there. SO, with a screwdriver wrapped in rag, soaked in petrol, i cleaned around the rim before i slid my long hard shaf... wait, sorry... been watching too many porno movies. Where was I, oh.. yeah, once clean, put a little oil on the washer of the plug before screwing (hehe) back in. Do them tight, but not too tight as not to break them. ALSO: before putting all the plugs back in, crank it over a few times to expell any dust in your cylinder chambers. - Then: I put it all back to gether and took it for a 5-10 min drive (without re-setting the computer) to warm it up a little. When u get home, reset the computer, redo the timing maybe 2 degrees faster than normal, and take the bitch for a good beating for about 5 - 10 mins. This is what I did to rectify the problem. I have just recently installed a boost guage and noticed why the problem was occuring. The factory boost guage tells lies!!!! It shows no spikes, but my aftermarket shows a spike at about 5000 rpm. So at this point, all the excess boost is making it hard for your car to spark. My solution: wind down the boost (just a little) and plumb the factory boost solenoid back in (as well as my preasure regulator and preasure relief valves). Now I get a very tiny spike or about 0.05 bar at 5000 rpm, where the bosst drops that small amount for a microsecond, and then raises a little again thanks to the factory boost solenoid. One other thing to look for which i did a while ago, is the resistance accross your coils. I forgot what is should read, but do a search on SDU and you should find it. Happy trouble shooting Zahos

I found the genuine nissan belt was cheaper than the aftermarket ones... about $88 i think i paid.

I looked at the pics, but could not see where the return pipe goes. does it run above or behind the core? Also, a generic question for those of you with R33's, how much chopping did you have to do to get your cooler to fit? (Also specify dimensions of your cooler) What about the bracket that holds the lock for the bonnet. (It runs on an angle in towards the radiator and has the horn attached to it). Did that need to removed/modified? Thanks Zahos

Gee thats pretty shocking!!! I was thinking that there might be a flow restriction on the return tank, and that it would flow better if it followed the shape of the pipe rather than being square... But how can you f*ck up the welding like that??? what a shocker! So did it actually burst at 15psi, or is that an assumption you made based on the design. -------------------- Meggala Doctor recomended me a guy that made one just like yours (design) with a garret core for $550 (600 * 280 * 75), only the return pipe had sharper bends than yours. That is my only concern, otherwise doctor seems pretty confident that is of top quality cratmanship. I rang the guy a few times and he preasure tests them all before sending them off, and he tells me they flow quite well too. Well he must be doing something right because he appears to be quite busy. Does that 45 degree bend restrict flow much? I'd imagine a rounded pipe would be much better. Then again, I don't plan on running ALOT of boost, so it wouldn't be too bad for me. I have attached a pic of how I would like the endtanks and piping to be made (touched up BOOSTMEISTERS pic ). Would this be much more difficult to fabricate?

Do you have a link or a phone number for where he got it from? I like the design of those end tanks... Are they preasure tested before they are shipped off? Also you mentioned that you made him return it, what was the problem? Thanks Zahos

I had a similar problem on my old car, and it turned out to be the cover on the exhaust, between the manifold and the cat. A few screws fell of and the cover was noisy all the time. Plus, it was dented from speed humps so i straightened the prick and put some new bolts on. Problem solved. This may or may not be the case for you, but it doesnt hurt to check it out.... Zahos

Yep, doxximus is right. I called Makspeed in re to some parts I wanted and they do stock certain things for imports. Details are below... Makspeed 124 Little Bourke St Melbourne 3000 (03) 9639 3161 25 White St Maribyrnong 3032 (03) 9318 5626 Zahos

Just about all my driving is either in the city, or the burbs - never high/freeway. I get anywhere between 350 - 450 km out of a tank, depending on how I drive. 450 is a little unrealistic as you have to drive like a sissy and keep the revs below 3 at all times. I only wanted to see what the most I could get was out of my car. Usually I will get around 400km out of a tank with a mixture of easy/heavy driving. This is on a stock R33 - only mod is 10psi boost.

How much for just the dump pipe and the front pipe? No fitting or cat either. Thanks George

I'd be interested in the front and dump pipes too if the price is right. Could probably ship mine and meggala's together as we live in the same suburb. Zahos

Browsing though performance magazines, I always see performance shops and wreckers in Sydney and Brisbane / Glod Coast. In Melbourne I cant think of ANY performance shops that cater to our needs, and only 1 wrecker: - EKW on hampstead rd, West Footscray If any1 knows of any other places in Vic, I think this would be a good spot to post them. Zahos