Zahos

Could be the springs on your spung centre clutch are loose... Mine made a grinding noise b/c of a faulty clutch plate where the springs were loose. It always did it at lower revs, and most audiable in 3rd and 2nd gears. If I changed gears to early and load it up at 1,500 rpm in 2nd or 3rd, it was very noticable...

Has anyone read about this yet? It doesn't replace petroleum altogether, just helps it burn cleaner (in some cases 0% emissions) and improves fuel economy by 10 - 40% Also can raise burn efficiency from 35% -> 97% Looks promising! http://www.canada.com/montreal/montrealgaz...11200e96&page=1

SOLD..... to me

does the drivers door have the door trim + switches (or at least the casing for the switches? If so, I'll take it.

I know you will probably reject this offer, but I have $250 to spend on a phone. If you don't find any buyers @ the price you want, and are willing to depart at that price, drop me a line.

does it have a cover of some sort, or WYSIWYG? Does it just attach on top of my boss kit, then I attach the steering wheel to this? Does it come with all the required screws?

I thought I would update this thread with more recent updates in case anyone else is experiencing the same problem. The clank I was getting in reverse came back a few days after I re-adjusted the bonnet, and lasted for months. In the weekend that just past, I thought I would take another look around and found what the problem really was. I have a Blitz LM intercooler, and the pipes that come with it are larger than the stock pipes. They also have smaller sections of pipe where they connect to the factory piping (where the airbox is). Anyhow, it was here the larger section of pipe that cannot fit through the factory cut holes cut for the intercooler pipes would rattle up against the rim of the hole. All I did temporarily was duct tape some padding around the section of pipe that rattles against the rim of that hole, and that stupid noise has finally gone. So if any one else has a Blitz intercooler with the return piping, and gets the same noise, it may be worth having a look at.

Yeah, I got under to have a look and realised what he was on about. You need to swap them around when going from having the top bolt mounted facing the rear of the car, to mounted facing the front of the car, otherwise the bottom bolt of the linkages will be facing outward, pointing away from the bar itself. Looks easier to install the front bar than it is to install the rear....

not only highly illegal to tune it on a public road, but also stupid/irresponsible, and potentially danderous to your car... so don't do it... Spend $120 to get it done properly on a dyno, so you can see your A/F ratios, and get the most you can out of it.

I have asked this same question on the whiteline forum: http://suspensionparts.info/showthread.php...d=2318#post2318 I still haven't attempted this, but I'm sure I'll figure it out when I have a look. By Waynes description. there should be another mounting point for the linkages, and they will not mount up in the same configuration as they do in the standard position. Below is apic of the swaybar:

Yeah, I ended up speaking to whiteline and you are correct. The standard linkages on the rear bar would not work with an adjustable swaybar, which is why they supply them. The front bar can use the standard ones... Thanks for the reply anyhow, appreciated. Z

Sorry to drag up an old thread guys, But I recently purchased the whiteline front adjustable bar for my R33 GTSt, and it only came with the D-bushes, no linkages. The shop I got it from said that I am supposed to use the standard linkages, but I was under the impression the adjustable bars also came with the linkages??? Came somebody please clarify this for me? thanks in advance. Z

I think it stands for Super Air Flow Controller. It intercepts the signal from the air flow meter, and alters it before it gets to the ECU. This tricks the ECU into thinking there is less or more airflow, which dynamically alters your A/F ratio at any given RPM. People use these when their air flow ratio's get really rich (or lean) after a few modifications, to get their air flow ratios in the desired range. It is NOT a full ECU, it just plugs in before your ECU, and modifies 1 signal before it gets to your ECU. Below I attached a dyno graph before and after a SAFC tune. The green lines are before and black after.. You can see the initial A/F ratio plot (botton green line) is all over the place. Now this one appears to be lean, but initially the sensor that took the reading was stuffed, so we changed it for a new one. The plot was similar with the new sensor, but sat lower, meaning the A/F mixtures were very rich. After adjusting the air flow meter signal accross the rev range with the SAFC, a flat 12:1 A/F ratio was obtained, giving very smooth and consistent power delivery. (black lines)

Thank God they got rid of those awful lights on the current shape!!!! This new front end looks much better. The grille does stand out a little too much, but the headlights are by far the best of all models ever released...

With those mods, and that level of boost, the increased airflow on colder days (due to low temps -> denser air), would probably make the car run rich. (ECU detects more airflow and increases fuel to compensate). Don't know how the RB20 ECU behaves, but when the S1 RB25 ECU detects increased airflow, it over compensates in fuel, making it increadible rich and misfire/splutter in the mid/high rev range. A piggy back fuel computer or replacement ECU can sort this out. Either way, you will need to get it on a dyno to monitor your A/F ratio's...

I'd love to get them off you, but I am in melb.... any chance of changing your mind? What is the condition of the rubber? Brand?

Pure copper is better, but I dont believe spark plugs are pure copper otherwise I think it will be too malleable, and would corrode quickly. I think they add other metals to make it more durable, but I might be wrong...

Sorry to fuxor that up... here is the correct table.

This Table shows the conductivity of several metals. Copper is clearly a better conductor. Iridium has better corrosion resistance, thus lasts longer. choose the plug that best suits your needs. If you cant be f*cked changing plugs every 15K - 20K km, then get iridiums.

copper is a better conductor, but thermally breaks down quicker. If your car is a street car, dont waste ur money on iridiums, coppers changed every 15,000Km is much better... I don't know anyone that has kept platinum/iridium plugs on a high performance car for 100,000km. If you race on a cuircut, then iridiums are better as they can take the abuse from the high temps...

pics of wheels (with pics of damage also) to zahos77[at]gmail.com

thats the carbon rod that you cleaned... you could have washed it with WD40 rather than sanding it. The WD40 will also protect it more from futher corrosion than sanding it would.

SAW was one of the best movies I saw last year (or was it this year)..... I can't understand how u would say it was shit!!! I haven't seen your shit movie, but I bet u haven't seen mine: BODY PARTS It's a farked up retro almost frankenstein sort of movie.... My friend rented this movie, and his brother and I punched him in the face for making us watch it. If you want a movie to watch when pissed / stonned watch : Freddy got fingered YOU DIDN'T LIKE MALLRATS???? What is it with the ppl on this forum Don't tell me you also didn't like clerks, dogma, jay and silent bob strike back??? The only Kevin smith film that I didn't enjoy as much was chasing amy And to anyone else out there that didn't like Mallrats, let me just say..... THERE IS NO EASTER BUNNY!!!!!!!!!!!!

there you go

i have emailed him about leaving a deposit tonight, but no response. What time is he there until?